The Pamir Highway is an extraordinary road stretching over 1,500 kilometers, connecting Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, to Osh in Kyrgyzstan. This remote route traverses some of the most stunning mountain regions in the world, with elevations ranging from 900 meters to an astonishing 4,655 meters above sea level. Despite the breathtaking beauty of the surrounding landscapes, the Pamir Highway is also notorious for its challenging road conditions, which can be particularly difficult due to the harsh mountain climate. For this reason, we suggest considering alternative routes between Dushanbe and Kalai-Khumb and from Khorog to Murghab for a more comfortable journey. While the southern detour to Kalai-Khumb may take longer, it is usually faster due to better roads. The section from Khorog to Murghab, especially along the Wakhan Valley, offers diverse natural beauty and fascinating cultural sites.
One essential point to keep in mind is that the Pamir Highway passes through the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO), a politically sensitive area. Visitors are required to obtain a GBAO permit before their journey and should bring multiple copies of this permit to present at various checkpoints along the way. Printing at least 10 copies in advance is highly recommended to avoid delays.
Before embarking on this unforgettable adventure, it’s essential to understand the road conditions, fluctuations in altitude, and the duration of the trip. This will help you better plan your journey and prepare for the various challenges that may arise on this rugged yet rewarding road.
Below, you’ll find detailed information on each section of the Pamir Highway, typically covered in a day’s travel.
Starting your journey from Dushanbe offers two main routes: one via the southern city of Kulob, and another, more demanding route via the northern Tavildara and Khaburabot Pass.
The Southern Route
The southern route, which stretches for about 370 kilometers, is the most popular option. The majority of the road is in good condition, with only the last 40 kilometers winding through a narrow gorge on a dirt road. On average, this journey takes around eight hours, including stops for lunch and photos of the stunning surroundings. The highest point along this section is the Shuroabad Pass, which sits at an elevation of 1,959 meters. Popular stops for photos include the Nurek Reservoir and panoramic views of the Panj River from the Shuroabad Pass.
From the Nurek Reservoir, the route continues through the towns of Dangara and Vose. A recommended stop in Vose is the Hulbuk Fortress and Museum, a fascinating glimpse into the region’s history. A longer stop in Kulob is also highly suggested to visit the Hamadoni Mausoleum, browse the local bazaar, and have lunch. It’s important to note that there won’t be any significant lunch options after Kulob until you reach Kalai-Khumb, so it’s best to refuel here.
From Kulob, you can either head straight to Kalai-Khumb or take a detour to Muminobod, a 60-kilometer side trip that offers a visit to the Childukhtaron Valley, or «40 Girls» in Tajik. This nature reserve, with its unique rock formations, provides a striking view of Tajikistan’s natural beauty. The Muminobod detour also offers a rare opportunity to experience rural Tajik life and the culture of southern Tajikistan. Allow an extra night for this rewarding detour.
After passing the Shuroabad Pass, you will encounter a police and border checkpoint. To save time, it’s advisable to have photocopies of your passport, visa, and GBAO permit ready. As you descend from the pass, you’ll be greeted by breathtaking views of the Panj River and the distant mountains of Afghanistan. From here, the road continues to Kalai-Khumb, following the river closely. Just 15 kilometers before Kalai-Khumb, in the village of Patkunob, you’ll find the beautiful Chorchaman Resort, a lovely spot to take a break and enjoy a peaceful walk along the river and nearby waterfalls.
The Northern Route
For more adventurous travelers, the northern route presents a greater challenge. Although the distance is shorter at 300 kilometers, the road conditions are much more demanding. From the Vahdat roundabout in Dushanbe, take a left turn and continue along the M41 highway through Faizabad, Obi Garm, and Nurobod. Sixteen kilometers past Nurobod, there is a turnoff to Tavildara, marking the start of a rugged mountainous road. Along this route, a detour to the Obi Khingob Valley is highly recommended for its stunning snowcapped peaks and fantastic trekking opportunities. A day or two should be allocated for exploring this magnificent valley.
Road Conditions
The southern route is mostly paved, with only a 20-kilometer stretch of dirt road before Kalai-Khumb. Many sections of the road have been newly asphalted, making it a more comfortable drive. In contrast, the northern route is paved only as far as the Tavildara turnoff. From Tavildara to Kalai-Khumb, the road is mostly unpaved and winds through steep mountain terrain.
The stretch of road between Kalai-Khumb and Khorog is a 240-kilometer journey that follows the Panj River, which forms the natural border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. Though the distance might seem short, the challenging road conditions make this an 8-hour drive through some of the most breathtaking but difficult terrain in the region. This journey will test your endurance and driving skills, especially in the first 98 kilometers.
As soon as you leave Kalai-Khumb, the road quickly deteriorates, transforming into a rugged path that is a mix of dirt and crumbling pavement. Only 4WD vehicles or sturdy cross-country cars can handle this terrain. In many sections, the road narrows to the point where you might have to crawl behind slower vehicles or wait for oncoming traffic to pass before proceeding, especially on descents. Dust clouds are common, so it’s essential to keep your windows shut. Although the road closely follows the Panj River, allowing for a gradual climb from 1,300 meters to about 2,100 meters in Khorog, the narrow, uneven surfaces make it difficult to stop for photos, meaning most of the stunning scenery will be admired through the car windows.
About 10 kilometers from Kalai-Khumb, just above the village of Ruzvai, you’ll encounter the remains of the ancient town of Karon. This historical site not only offers a glimpse into the region’s past but also provides magnificent views of the Panj River and the surrounding landscapes. The drive up to Karon requires the use of a 4WD vehicle, but the effort is well worth it for the panoramic views.
At the 98-kilometer mark, you’ll reach the Vanj Valley junction and your first police checkpoint. Be prepared to show all necessary documents, including your driver’s license, vehicle registration, visa, passport, and GBAO permit. Once past the checkpoint, you’ll cross a bridge and enjoy a brief reprieve as the road improves for the next 20 kilometers. However, this smoother stretch is short-lived, as the road reverts to a mix of partially paved and deteriorating asphalt for the remainder of the journey to Khorog.
Another police checkpoint awaits after passing Vomar, located in the Rushan District. As with the first checkpoint, having copies of your documents ready will help speed up the process.
Detours: Exploring the Vanj and Bartang Valleys
Despite the rough road, several detour options along this route offer rewarding side trips into the less-explored valleys of the Pamirs.
Vanj Valley
Located 98 kilometers from Kalai-Khumb, the Vanj Valley is an easy detour once you reach the checkpoint. Turning left, you’ll enter a broad valley that stretches for 88 kilometers to the last village, Poi Mazor. The drive through Vanj is marked by beautiful, sweeping views of the valley, culminating in spectacular vistas near Poi Mazor. Just before this village, you can also visit a hot spring, perfect for a relaxing soak. Poi Mazor serves as the starting point for a trek to the Bears Glacier, a multi-day hike that involves overnight camping. If you plan to trek, consider staying with a local family in Poi Mazor and leaving your vehicle at their homestay for safekeeping.
Bartang Valley
Another rewarding detour is the rugged and remote Bartang Valley, home to two notable attractions: the Khijez Valley and Lake Sarez. Reaching Lake Sarez requires a drive of about 120 kilometers along a rough dirt road to the village of Barchadiv. From there, it’s a challenging hike to the lake, but the reward is a breathtaking view of this high-altitude natural wonder. Be sure to obtain a permit for Lake Sarez in Dushanbe before heading out, and allow two full days for the hike. The villagers in this isolated part of Tajikistan are known for their hospitality, and while they are generally trustworthy, it’s a good idea to ask your host to look after your car during your trek.
The Khijez Valley is a closer detour, just 40 kilometers off the Pamir Highway. The valley offers a handful of homestays where you can leave your vehicle and set off on foot to explore the area. Although Jizev Valley, located just seven kilometers before Khijez, is a more well-known hiking destination, there is no road access to the village, making Khijez a better alternative for those traveling by car.
Khuf Valley
Another lesser-known but equally stunning detour is the Khuf Valley. Just 15 kilometers from the Rushan checkpoint, take a left turn at the village of Pastkhuf and follow the road to Khuf Village. From here, continue another five kilometers along the river to find an ideal camping spot with unbeatable views of the valley. If you’re carrying a tent, this secluded location offers an unparalleled opportunity to connect with nature.
Road Conditions
The road from Kalai-Khumb to Khorog is notorious for its poor condition. The first 90 kilometers, from Kalai-Khumb to the Vanj Valley junction, are marked by deteriorated asphalt, deep potholes, and dirt tracks. After passing Vanj, the road improves slightly but remains a combination of patched pavement and broken surfaces until you reach Rushon. The stretch from Rushon to Porshnev reverts to poor conditions, with cracked asphalt and numerous potholes. Fortunately, the final leg from Porshnev to Khorog offers smoother, newly paved roads, providing a welcome relief after the rough journey.
Once you reach Khorog, the capital of the Gorno-Badakhshan region, you face two main options for continuing your journey: take a scenic detour through the captivating Wakhan Valley, or head directly toward the remote village of Bulunkul and even further to Murgab. While either option offers adventure, the Wakhan Valley route is the most popular choice among travelers, providing an unforgettable cultural and historical experience.
Wakhan Valley Detour
Opting for the Wakhan Valley detour is a wise decision for those looking to soak in the region’s incredible vistas and rich historical heritage. This part of the journey unveils ancient fortresses, sacred shrines, and remnants of Zoroastrian and Buddhist influences, dating back thousands of years. Many seasoned travelers consider the Wakhan Valley to be the highlight of their entire Pamir Highway trip.
To reach the Wakhan Valley, cross the bridge located near Khorog’s Central Park, then turn right to rejoin the Panj River, which forms the natural boundary between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. This scenic route follows the river down to Ishkashim, a village that lies approximately 110 kilometers from Khorog.
The road from Khorog to Ishkashim is a mixed experience. The first 55 kilometers consist mostly of dirt roads, but the final stretch is blessed with better pavement, making for a smoother ride as you approach Ishkashim. Although the drive typically takes between 3.5 and 4 hours, the narrow sections of the road, which snake along the Panj River at altitudes ranging from 2,100 to 2,500 meters above sea level, require careful navigation. There are few places to stop for photos along this stretch, but you’ll have plenty of opportunities for breathtaking views as you explore further into the valley.
About halfway along the journey, the road branches out toward Garm-Chashma, a famous hot spring known for its healing mineral waters. This detour offers an excellent chance to unwind before continuing deeper into the Wakhan Valley.
The Wakhan Valley is teeming with historical sites and natural wonders, so it’s best to leave Khorog early if you want to make the most of the day. If you set out in the morning, you can reach the village of Yamg by evening, where you can spend the night. Yamg is a perfect base for exploring the valley further before heading to Bulunkul the next day. However, if you spend the morning in Khorog visiting the local Afghan bazaar or other sights, you might opt to stay overnight in Ishkashim instead.
From Ishkashim, you can dedicate an entire day to exploring the valley’s various attractions, including the Buddhist stupas, ancient petroglyphs, and the fortress of Yamchun, before making an overnight stop in Langar. Alternatively, if you’re pressed for time, you can drive directly from Ishkashim to Bulunkul via the Khargush Pass, a 240-kilometer journey that can be completed in one long day. If you enjoy hiking, consider extending your stay in the Wakhan Valley for up to four days to experience some of the region’s most spectacular treks.
Direct Route to Bulunkul
If you’re short on time or more interested in trekking around the Bachor and Yashilkul areas, you might choose to skip the Wakhan Valley detour and continue along the M41 Pamir Highway. For those aiming to explore Bachor, drive to the village of Sardem, where a right turn will take you across the Ghund River and onto a dirt road leading to Bachor, about 20 kilometers further. This area is famous for its scenic trekking routes, and you can find detailed maps of the trails in the village.
Bulunkul, one of the coldest inhabited places in Central Asia, is just 16 kilometers off the Pamir Highway. As you drive along the M41 from Khorog, look for the sign indicating Bulunkul after descending from Koitezak Pass. If you’re coming from the Wakhan Valley, the turn-off to Bulunkul will appear once you rejoin the M41 after crossing the Khargush Pass.
Road Conditions: What to Expect
Khorog to Ishkashim (110 km): The road runs along the Panj River through a narrow gorge, with the first half consisting of dirt paths and the second half paved with asphalt as you approach Ishkashim. This section can take 3.5 to 4 hours due to the road conditions.
Ishkashim to Langar (115 km): From Ishkashim, the road quality deteriorates into a mix of gravel and old, crumbling asphalt. Some sections still have remnants of tarmac, but overall, expect a bumpy ride. As you ascend toward the Khargush Pass, the road becomes a rugged dirt track with occasional patches of tarmac.
Langar to Bulunkul (125 km): After Langar, the road climbs through the Khargush Pass, a dirt road punctuated by short sections of tarmac. The ascent to the pass starts just after Langar and requires careful navigation through the mountains.
Bulunkul to Yashilkul: Bulunkul is just 4 kilometers from Yashilkul Lake, which can be accessed via a similar dirt road. A permit is required to visit Yashilkul, which can be obtained at a checkpoint near the lake.
For those continuing past Bulunkul, the road to Murgab from Khorog stretches for 315 kilometers, offering more opportunities to explore Tajikistan’s remote wilderness.
Key Distances
When driving from Khorog to Bulunkul, you’ll encounter a sign for Bulunkul as you descend from Koitezak Pass. If coming from Murgab, the road to Bulunkul will appear on your right after the Khargush Pass fork. For those visiting Yashilkul Lake, remember to secure a permit at the checkpoint located near the lake.
This stretch of the Pamir Highway takes you through the legendary «Roof of the World,» or «Bomi Dunyo» as it’s locally known, offering a journey into some of the most remote and breathtaking landscapes in Central Asia. This segment of the Pamir Highway offers some of the most remote and awe-inspiring landscapes in Tajikistan, with opportunities to explore areas that few outsiders have ever seen.
The Main Route: A Scenic Drive to Murghab
If you prefer to stay on the main path, you can drive directly to Murghab or even further to Karakul Lake, making a few worthwhile stops along the way. The majority of the population in the Murghab region is Kyrgyz, and you’ll notice numerous pastures dotted with traditional yurts, especially in the side valleys along the M41 highway.
One of the must-see spots is Ak-Balyk Lake, located about 10 kilometers from Alichur. This beautiful, crystal-clear pool is teeming with fish and is considered a sacred place by the local Kyrgyz people. It’s an ideal spot for a peaceful break and perhaps a picnic by the water.
Continuing another 20 kilometers past Ak-Balyk, you’ll come across Chatyr Tash Mountain, a massive rock formation rising dramatically from the Alichur Plain. Atop this giant monolith are ancient graves, and the summit offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape—perfect for photography enthusiasts seeking that unforgettable shot of the Pamir highlands.
A small but rewarding detour leads to the settlement of Bash Gumbez, approximately 30 kilometers from Alichur. This village has stood the test of time for thousands of years, and nearby you’ll find an ancient Chinese tomb, evidence of the area’s historical significance along the Silk Road. Exploring Bash Gumbez provides a fascinating glimpse into the region’s rich cultural tapestry.
Should you choose to drive straight to Murghab without extended stops, you’ll likely arrive by noon, giving you ample time to rest or even continue your journey toward Karakul Lake, which is about four hours away. Murghab itself, situated at an elevation of 3,600 meters, is the highest town in Tajikistan and offers basic amenities, including guesthouses, small shops, and a local market where you can interact with the friendly Kyrgyz community.
Off the Beaten Path: Exploring Jarty Gumbez and Beyond
For the intrepid traveler eager to venture off the well-trodden route, a detour to Jarty Gumbez is an adventure not to be missed. This is one of the most remote regions in Tajikistan, offering unspoiled natural beauty and a sense of isolation that few places on Earth can match.
Jarty Gumbez is renowned for its hot springs, which are perfect for a soothing soak after a long drive. The area is also rich in historical sites, including Saka tombs and ancient Kyrgyz graves, providing a unique window into the past civilizations that once inhabited these highlands.
Wildlife enthusiasts will be thrilled by the possibility of spotting rare animals such as the Marco Polo sheep and the Siberian ibex. The chances of encountering these magnificent creatures are higher in the Jarty Gumbez area than anywhere else in Tajikistan.
To reach Jarty Gumbez, drive approximately 75 kilometers from Alichur, then turn right onto a dusty trail where the road forms a U-shape. Continue along this track for another 60 kilometers. Be prepared: the path can be challenging to navigate, and it’s easy to lose your way. If you come across shepherds along the route—and you likely will—don’t hesitate to ask for directions to Jarty Gumbez.
Once there, you have a couple of options for extending your adventure. You can drive to Zorkul Lake the following morning and then return to the M41 highway, or you can continue onward to Kyzyl Rabot, Shaimak, and eventually circle back to Murghab, creating a memorable loop through some of the most isolated parts of the Pamirs. Keep in mind that visiting Zorkul Lake requires a special permit, which should be obtained in advance from authorities in Dushanbe or Khorog.
It’s highly recommended to hire a local guide familiar with the area, especially if you plan to take the route toward Kyzyl Rabot. The track can be difficult to find, and at one point, it seemingly disappears into a rocky landscape with a narrow passage through the cliffs. A guide will ensure you navigate safely and make the most of your journey.
If you opt for the Kyzyl Rabot loop, consider making an overnight stop in either Kyzyl Rabot or Shaimak before reaching Murghab. While it’s possible to drive straight to Murghab in a single day, having someone knowledgeable about the roads will help prevent getting lost and allow you to enjoy the spectacular scenery without stress.
Road Conditions
The distance between Langar and Murghab is approximately 255 kilometers, but don’t let the relatively short distance fool you—the road conditions are challenging, and the journey can take between 7 to 8 hours. The first 100 kilometers are on unpaved dirt roads, transitioning into a paved road that, while surfaced, is filled with undulations and potholes that necessitate reduced speeds.
Elevation changes are significant on this leg of the trip, rising from about 2,800 meters to over 3,600 meters above sea level. You’ll traverse two high mountain passes: Khargush Pass at 4,344 meters and Naizatash Pass at 4,137 meters. Along the way, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking landscapes, including serene lakes and verdant meadows that burst into life during the brief summer months.
The stretch from Alichur to Murghab is mostly paved but expect bumpy sections and occasional gravel patches. All detour routes, including those to Bash Gumbez and Jarty Gumbez, are on dirt roads that require a reliable 4×4 vehicle. Adequate preparation is crucial—ensure your vehicle is in good condition, carry extra fuel and supplies, and be prepared for sudden changes in weather.
Key Distances and Travel Times
This stretch of the Pamir Highway takes you through the legendary «Roof of the World,» or «Bomi Dunyo» as it’s locally known, offering a journey into some of the most remote and breathtaking landscapes in Central Asia. This segment of the Pamir Highway offers some of the most remote and awe-inspiring landscapes in Tajikistan, with opportunities to explore areas that few outsiders have ever seen.
The Main Route: A Scenic Drive to Murghab
If you prefer to stay on the main path, you can drive directly to Murghab or even further to Karakul Lake, making a few worthwhile stops along the way. The majority of the population in the Murghab region is Kyrgyz, and you’ll notice numerous pastures dotted with traditional yurts, especially in the side valleys along the M41 highway.
One of the must-see spots is Ak-Balyk Lake, located about 10 kilometers from Alichur. This beautiful, crystal-clear pool is teeming with fish and is considered a sacred place by the local Kyrgyz people. It’s an ideal spot for a peaceful break and perhaps a picnic by the water.
Continuing another 20 kilometers past Ak-Balyk, you’ll come across Chatyr Tash Mountain, a massive rock formation rising dramatically from the Alichur Plain. Atop this giant monolith are ancient graves, and the summit offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape—perfect for photography enthusiasts seeking that unforgettable shot of the Pamir highlands.
A small but rewarding detour leads to the settlement of Bash Gumbez, approximately 30 kilometers from Alichur. This village has stood the test of time for thousands of years, and nearby you’ll find an ancient Chinese tomb, evidence of the area’s historical significance along the Silk Road. Exploring Bash Gumbez provides a fascinating glimpse into the region’s rich cultural tapestry.
Should you choose to drive straight to Murghab without extended stops, you’ll likely arrive by noon, giving you ample time to rest or even continue your journey toward Karakul Lake, which is about four hours away. Murghab itself, situated at an elevation of 3,600 meters, is the highest town in Tajikistan and offers basic amenities, including guesthouses, small shops, and a local market where you can interact with the friendly Kyrgyz community.
Off the Beaten Path: Exploring Jarty Gumbez and Beyond
For the intrepid traveler eager to venture off the well-trodden route, a detour to Jarty Gumbez is an adventure not to be missed. This is one of the most remote regions in Tajikistan, offering unspoiled natural beauty and a sense of isolation that few places on Earth can match.
Jarty Gumbez is renowned for its hot springs, which are perfect for a soothing soak after a long drive. The area is also rich in historical sites, including Saka tombs and ancient Kyrgyz graves, providing a unique window into the past civilizations that once inhabited these highlands.
Wildlife enthusiasts will be thrilled by the possibility of spotting rare animals such as the Marco Polo sheep and the Siberian ibex. The chances of encountering these magnificent creatures are higher in the Jarty Gumbez area than anywhere else in Tajikistan.
To reach Jarty Gumbez, drive approximately 75 kilometers from Alichur, then turn right onto a dusty trail where the road forms a U-shape. Continue along this track for another 60 kilometers. Be prepared: the path can be challenging to navigate, and it’s easy to lose your way. If you come across shepherds along the route—and you likely will—don’t hesitate to ask for directions to Jarty Gumbez.
Once there, you have a couple of options for extending your adventure. You can drive to Zorkul Lake the following morning and then return to the M41 highway, or you can continue onward to Kyzyl Rabot, Shaimak, and eventually circle back to Murghab, creating a memorable loop through some of the most isolated parts of the Pamirs. Keep in mind that visiting Zorkul Lake requires a special permit, which should be obtained in advance from authorities in Dushanbe or Khorog.
It’s highly recommended to hire a local guide familiar with the area, especially if you plan to take the route toward Kyzyl Rabot. The track can be difficult to find, and at one point, it seemingly disappears into a rocky landscape with a narrow passage through the cliffs. A guide will ensure you navigate safely and make the most of your journey.
If you opt for the Kyzyl Rabot loop, consider making an overnight stop in either Kyzyl Rabot or Shaimak before reaching Murghab. While it’s possible to drive straight to Murghab in a single day, having someone knowledgeable about the roads will help prevent getting lost and allow you to enjoy the spectacular scenery without stress.
Road Conditions
The distance between Langar and Murghab is approximately 255 kilometers, but don’t let the relatively short distance fool you—the road conditions are challenging, and the journey can take between 7 to 8 hours. The first 100 kilometers are on unpaved dirt roads, transitioning into a paved road that, while surfaced, is filled with undulations and potholes that necessitate reduced speeds.
Elevation changes are significant on this leg of the trip, rising from about 2,800 meters to over 3,600 meters above sea level. You’ll traverse two high mountain passes: Khargush Pass at 4,344 meters and Naizatash Pass at 4,137 meters. Along the way, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking landscapes, including serene lakes and verdant meadows that burst into life during the brief summer months.
The stretch from Alichur to Murghab is mostly paved but expect bumpy sections and occasional gravel patches. All detour routes, including those to Bash Gumbez and Jarty Gumbez, are on dirt roads that require a reliable 4×4 vehicle. Adequate preparation is crucial—ensure your vehicle is in good condition, carry extra fuel and supplies, and be prepared for sudden changes in weather.
Key Distances and Travel Times
The final leg of the Pamir Highway adventure takes you through the highest point of the M41 highway — the breathtaking Ak Baital Pass, which rises to an impressive 4,655 meters above sea level. From Murgab, the highway heads north towards the Kyrgyz border, passing through scenic landscapes like Karakul Lake and Sarytash town in Kyrgyzstan. While it’s technically possible to cover the entire 420-kilometer stretch in one day, this is not recommended. The route is packed with fascinating detours that are worth exploring, turning your journey into a rich, multi-day adventure.
Among the most popular stops between Murgab and Osh are the village of Karakul and the Tulparkul Yurt Camp in Kyrgyzstan. If you skipped the Jartigumbez-Shaimak loop but are still intrigued by Shaimak, known as «Little Pamir,» you can make a detour here. Shaimak is at the junction of four countries: Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and China. Known to Silk Road travelers, this remote area is home to a hot spring, a beautiful mosque, and ancient Scythian graves. You can comfortably visit Shaimak and return to Murgab in one day.
To the west of Murgab, there was once a road leading to the picturesque Madian Valley, but unfortunately, it has been washed away, making the valley inaccessible. However, two interesting detours remain north of Murgab before reaching the Ak Baital Pass. The first is to the Pshart Valley, starting 5 kilometers north of Murgab near a graveyard. The road here is strictly for 4WD vehicles and takes you 25 kilometers deep into the valley, where you’ll encounter Kyrgyz yurts and the stunning rainbow-colored mountains. Further along the highway, about 20 kilometers from Murgab, a side road leads to the shimmering lakes of Shorkul and Rangkul. From the village of Rangkul, you can admire Mustagh Ata Peak in China (7,546 meters) on a clear day, or even rent a Bactrian camel for a ride, adding an extra layer of adventure to your trip.
Roughly 40 kilometers past the Ak Baital Pass, a turn-off takes you west to the Muzkol Valley, then north along the Tanimas River before reconnecting with the Bartang Valley. While this route offers a scenic alternative way back to Dushanbe, it’s only passable at certain times of the year when water levels in the Tanimas River are low. Continuing past the Muzkol Valley turn-off, the road leads you to the stunning Karakul Lake, Tajikistan’s largest natural lake at nearly 4,000 meters in altitude. The nearby village offers several homestays and yurts where you can spend the night before continuing north to Osh. After another 58 kilometers, you’ll reach the Kyzyl Art border post, the official checkpoint between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. After crossing the Tajik border, it’s a 30-kilometer drive to the Kyrgyz checkpoint at Bordobo. For more information on border crossing formalities, refer to the border crossing & checkpoints section.
Once you’re in Kyrgyzstan, you’ll notice an immediate change in the road quality. After navigating 22 kilometers of potholes, the road turns into a beautifully paved highway that connects you to Osh. This section of the journey takes about 3 hours and offers spectacular views, particularly at the Taldyk (3,615 meters) and Chiyirchyk (2,389 meters) passes.
For those who seek a final detour before reaching Osh, the Tulparkul Yurt Camp south of Sary Mogol is a must-visit. To get there, take the junction at the A371 and M41 highways, drive 30 kilometers to Sary Mogol, then head south, crossing a bridge at the town’s southern edge. From there, it’s another 25 kilometers on a dirt road, with jaw-dropping views of the snow-capped Trans-Alai mountains along the way. At Tulparkul, you can spend the night in a traditional yurt and hike to the first base camp of Lenin Peak (7,134 meters), where, weather permitting, you can catch a glimpse of the majestic mountain.
Upon arrival in Osh, you can either conclude your epic journey and return any rental cars or continue your travels further. If you’re keen to explore more, you can drive to Bishkek in two days via Toktogul Lake and the Suusamir Valley, or take a more leisurely 3-4 day route through Naryn and Songkul Lake. Keep in mind that many car rental companies in Dushanbe only allow rentals up to Osh, so you may need to arrange a new vehicle if you plan to continue to Bishkek. Alternatively, you can opt to retrace your steps back to Dushanbe.
Road Conditions
For the most part, the road from Murgab to Osh is paved, though sections near the Ak Baital Pass and the 30 kilometers of «no man’s land» between border checkpoints are dirt and tarmac. Once past the Tajik-Kyrgyz border, the road from Sarytash to Osh is a well-maintained asphalt highway — a welcome change after the rough terrain. The journey between Murgab and Osh can take 10-12 hours, depending on border wait times and how many stops you make along the way. A stop at the Ak-Baital Pass, one of the highest automobile passes in the world, offers panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. From here, you can enjoy a view of Karakul Lake and, on the Kyrgyz side, marvel at Lenin Peak (7,134 meters) near Sary Tash.
Osh itself has a vibrant dining scene with many cafes and restaurants to choose from. Simply walk in any direction from your accommodation, and you’re sure to find a spot to enjoy some local cuisine.
Key Distances:
Returning from Osh to Dushanbe typically takes at least two days, and many car rental providers in Dushanbe prefer this option as it saves time and money on retrieving the vehicle from Osh. The route from Osh takes you westward, passing through Nookat and the Sokh enclave of Uzbekistan to Batken, and then to the Kyzyl-Bel border crossing into Tajikistan. From there, you’ll continue to the northern cities of Isfara and Khujand in Tajikistan. The journey can be split into two manageable parts: Osh to Khujand, and Khujand to Dushanbe.
On the drive from Khujand to Dushanbe, there are several potential detours worth considering. For nature lovers, a side trip to the Fann Mountains offers spectacular scenery. You can visit the stunning Iskanderkul Lake or the 7 Lakes and Penjikent city. While Iskanderkul Lake can be reached within the same day, a trip to the 7 Lakes will require an overnight stay to fully appreciate the natural beauty. If you plan to visit both, it’s advisable to allocate an extra day for a more relaxed experience.
As you leave Khujand, follow the signs towards Dushanbe from the bustling Khujand bazaar, and head south towards Shahristan. Along this route, you will pass through two important tunnels: the Shahristan Tunnel (4 km) and the Anzob Tunnel (5 km). These tunnels are integral to the journey, providing passage through the mountainous terrain that separates the northern and southern regions of Tajikistan.
Note on Road Conditions: While the road from Osh to Batken may appear confusing on a map as it passes through Uzbekistan territory, there’s no need for concern. The only Uzbek territory you will cross is the Sokh enclave, and you do not require additional visas or permits to drive through this region. However, as you re-enter Tajikistan at the Kyzyl-Bel border, you will need another e-visa. It’s recommended to apply for this second Tajik e-visa after using your first one, or, if preferred, you can arrange a multiple-entry visa at any Tajik embassy before arriving in Dushanbe.
Key Distances:
Drive through scenic Pamir Mountains
Visit Garm Chashma hot springs
See the Wakhan Corridor views
Tour Yamchun Fortress ruins
Marvel at Karakul Lake’s beauty