The history of Pamir Highway

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The history of Pamir Highway

transport in Pamir before the road was built

The Pamir Highway is a remarkable feat of engineering and history that spans over a century, but the story of the Pamirs themselves stretches back millennia. In the centuries before the Common Era, small independent states like Shungan and Wakhan existed in the region, maintaining connections with ancient India, China, Sogdiana, and the Kushan Empire. Ruins of fortresses such as Kakh-Kakha and Yamchun still stand as silent witnesses to these ancient times, offering a glimpse into a past filled with trade, culture, and diplomacy. Some historians even believe that one of the Silk Road routes once wound its way through this region, linking China to Afghanistan and India. Archaeological discoveries show that Zoroastrians, Buddhists, and Muslims once inhabited these high-altitude lands.

The official birth of the Pamir Highway can be traced back to March 14, 1891, when Lieutenant Colonel Bronislav Grombchevsky delivered a lecture titled “Our Interests in the Pamirs: A Military-Political Outline” at a secret meeting in Saint Petersburg. His words resonated with the top brass of the Russian Empire’s army, leading to a decision to build a road from Osh to Sary-Tash, in what is now Kyrgyzstan. The project was cloaked in secrecy, as the road was seen as a crucial military asset. By 1894, the first section of the M41 Highway was completed, connecting the fertile Ferghana and Alay valleys.

This secret military road was constructed with a clear geopolitical purpose: to prepare for any potential British invasion of Central Asia. The road would allow Russian troops to be swiftly deployed southward if needed. This period of history, known as «The Great Game,» was marked by intense rivalry between the British Empire and Russia as they expanded their colonial interests across Asia. While the British moved northward through India and Afghanistan, the Russians pushed south, taking control of present-day Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan. Ultimately, both empires’ ambitions collided on the banks of the Panj River, where they agreed to establish a peaceful border that still divides Afghanistan and Tajikistan today.

By the late 19th century, the road had been extended to Khorog, a small town on the Panj River, where the Russians established a frontier post. One of the more fascinating tales from this period involves a piano. In 1914, the commandant of the Khorog border line ordered a piano for his daughter. This wasn’t an easy task: a dozen soldiers had to carry the instrument on their shoulders for more than 700 kilometers over mountain passes. The piano, which took a month to deliver, can still be seen today in the Khorog History Museum.

The road was further developed in the 1930s, and by 1937, the section connecting Osh and Khorog was completed. In 1940, the final stretch between Khorog and Dushanbe was opened, making the Pamir Highway the vital artery that it remains today. During the Soviet-Afghan War (1979–1989), the highway served as a strategic military road, allowing troops and supplies to be moved along the Panj River.

After the collapse of the Soviet Union and the ensuing Civil War in Tajikistan (1992-1997), the condition of the Pamir Highway deteriorated significantly. The roads, once carefully maintained, were left to decay as political and economic instability gripped the region. Many sections of the highway became nearly impassable, cutting off communities and stifling trade.

However, in recent years, the Pamir Highway has experienced a resurgence. With the growth of trade between China and Central Asia, the highway has become an important route for transporting goods. Simultaneously, the Pamirs have gained popularity among adventure travelers seeking off-the-beaten-path experiences. This renewed interest has spurred investment in infrastructure, with guesthouses, rural services, and road improvements gradually enhancing the experience for travelers.

The Path to Islam: A Historical Perspective

Before the Arab conquests of the 7th century, the people of what is now Tajikistan practiced a variety of religions, including Zoroastrianism, Manichaeism, Buddhism, Hinduism, and Nestorian Christianity, alongside Judaism. The arrival of Islam in Central Asia marked a significant transformation. By the 11th century, the process of «Islamization» was complete, and Islam became deeply rooted in the region.

Following the death of Prophet Muhammad in the 7th century, Islam divided into several branches, with Sunnism and Shiism becoming the most prominent. Sunnis, who constitute the majority in Tajikistan, do not believe in intermediaries between God and people after the Prophet’s death. They also reject the notion of a special lineage of Ali, the Prophet’s cousin and son-in-law, and his descendants as rightful leaders.

Shiism, while a minority branch in Tajikistan, has a significant presence, particularly among the Ismailis of Gorno-Badakhshan. The Ismailis, a subsect of Shiism, trace their lineage back to Ismail, the son of Jafar as-Sadiq, the sixth Imam. Today, the Ismaili community is led by Prince Karim Aga Khan IV, who resides in France but plays an active role in guiding and supporting his followers around the world.

Unlike the broader Shia community, Ismailis have their distinct practices and leadership, which have helped them maintain a unique identity within the Islamic world. The Ismaili community in Tajikistan, though relatively small, is known for its close-knit structure and vibrant cultural life, contributing to the region’s rich tapestry of beliefs.

Sufism, often described as the mystical and ascetic branch of Islam, also has deep roots in Tajikistan. Emerging in the 11th and 12th centuries, Sufi orders or brotherhoods, led by spiritual leaders known as pirs or ishans, have played a crucial role in the spiritual life of the region. These orders, such as the Naqshbandi, Kubravi, Qadiri, and Yasavi, have survived through the centuries, continuing to influence the spiritual practices of many Tajiks.

Sufism emphasizes a direct, personal experience of God, often through prayer, meditation, and the guidance of a spiritual master. The presence of these Sufi orders in Tajikistan adds another layer to the country’s rich spiritual heritage, offering a path for those seeking a deeper, more introspective connection with the divine.