Where to Stay on the Pamir Highway

Finding a 4- or 5-star hotel along the Pamir Highway is only possible in Dushanbe and Osh—the starting and ending points of the journey. In Kalai-Khumb, a village located 368 kilometers from Dushanbe, and in Khorog, you’ll find more modest options, with 2- and 3-star hotels.

In other settlements along the route, local residents offer rooms in guesthouses, yurts, or even their own homes. Not only will you be provided with a place to sleep, but you’ll also be treated to a hearty dinner and breakfast. Despite the humble appearance of these accommodations, they typically include basic amenities, such as a bathroom with hot water.

Many cafés along the highway, particularly in its eastern part, also follow a common practice: if a guest orders food, they can spend the night there as well. However, it’s advisable to inquire about living conditions beforehand, as the Pamir Highway is a week-long or longer journey, and understanding what to expect is essential.

Most tours along the Pamir Highway begin in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. Here, you can find hotels of any level, including luxurious five-star options. However, as you travel further from the city, the level of comfort decreases.

Tajikistan is predominantly Muslim, with Islam playing a central role in the daily lives of its people. Over 90% of Tajiks are adherents of the Hanafi school of Sunni Islam, a tradition that has shaped the spiritual and cultural fabric of the nation for centuries.

The Hanafi school, named after Imam Abu Hanifa, emerged around the 8th and 9th centuries. Known for its emphasis on reason, tolerance, and adaptability, it allows Tajiks to harmonize their faith with the complexities of modern life. The Quran is the primary guide for believers, complemented by interpretations of the Hadiths, or sayings of the Prophet Muhammad. This balance of tradition and practicality is a hallmark of the Hanafi approach, making it the most widespread and practiced form of Islam in the region.

In Tajikistan, religion is more than a private matter; it is a vital part of community life. The country is home to over 3,700 mosques, bustling with activity, especially during Friday prayers and religious festivals. While Islam is the predominant faith, Tajikistan is also a land of religious diversity. In cities like Dushanbe, the capital, you will find synagogues and Orthodox Christian churches, reflecting the country’s tolerance and respect for different beliefs.

Kalai-Khumb is a small settlement along the Panj River and a common stopover for travelers on the Pamir Highway. In the past, the only accommodation options were a few guesthouses, where tourists shared rooms in traditional Tajik homes. However, in 2015, the Karon Palace Hotel opened, offering a level of comfort comparable to 4- or 5-star hotels in Dushanbe. The hotel is fully equipped with modern amenities, including Wi-Fi, and rooms can be booked online. In contrast, guesthouses in Kalai-Khumb require booking on the spot, but they offer an authentic experience.

Khorog is the only city in the Pamirs and the capital of Gorno-Badakhshan. Here, you’ll find cozy 2-star hotels, budget hostels, and traditional guesthouses. While the accommodations may not be luxurious, they provide everything necessary for a good night’s rest after a long journey from Kalai-Khumb. Khorog also has restaurants, shops, and other infrastructure that cater to travelers.

One of the most affordable options in Khorog is The Lal Hotel, a family-run establishment with various room categories, from hostel-style to more comfortable hotel rooms. The staff is warm, welcoming, and speaks English, making it a popular choice for foreign visitors.

Another peaceful option is the Khorog Serena Inn, located at the «Roof of the World» with stunning views of the Panj River and the Pamir Mountains. The inn offers large, comfortable rooms with decent Wi-Fi, though it lacks additional amenities due to its small size, with only six rooms available.

Ishkashim is the southernmost village on the Pamir Highway, marking the start of the beautiful Wakhan Corridor. This small settlement offers a few guesthouses and a modest hotel called Hanis, with 25 beds. Guesthouses are similar to those found elsewhere along the highway, providing basic communal living arrangements. Hotel Hanis features double rooms with twin beds and a shared bathroom, which may result in queues. There is also a lawn where guests can set up tents. While there is no internet in Ishkashim, the communal atmosphere encourages travelers to socialize, particularly during the high season when the village becomes a hub for tourists.

Langar is a quintessential Pamiri village where you can experience life far removed from the modern world. There are several private guesthouses built in the traditional Pamir style. These guesthouses typically have a large living room where meals are served and small, cozy bedrooms. Bathrooms are shared but generally well-maintained, though during peak times, there might be queues. Despite the lack of modern conveniences, the harmony, fresh air, and tranquility of Langar offer a refreshing break from the hustle and bustle of city life.

At an elevation of 3,600 meters, Murghab is a high-altitude settlement where the thin air can make you feel lightheaded. The village has one hotel, Pamir, and several modest guesthouses. Most tourists prefer to stay at Hotel Pamir, though the accommodations are as rugged as the surrounding landscape. Hot water and electricity are only available at certain times: from 7:00 to 12:00 in the morning, and again in the evening from 19:00 to midnight. The rooms are Spartan, with single beds and basic furnishings, but it’s the best option in the area. There is no Wi-Fi, though mobile phone service and internet are available through cellular networks.

A decent alternative is the Erali Guesthouse, which offers a warm, family-run atmosphere. Despite the harsh conditions, the guesthouse provides the essentials: a warm room, bathroom, meals, and the care of the local family.

Karakul is a remote settlement situated at 3,900 meters above sea level on the shores of Karakul Lake. Here, you’ll find two guesthouses with very basic living conditions: there is no running water, the toilets are outdoors, and electricity is only available from 19:00 to 23:00. However, the experience of spending a night at this altitude, surrounded by the stark beauty of the landscape, is one of the highlights of the journey. Travelers can also witness the daily lives of local people, living in this rugged, unforgiving environment.

As described above, comfort levels decrease significantly as you venture further from Khorog. Most travelers are aware of this and set realistic expectations for their journey. After Khorog, there is no internet, television, or other connections to the outside world. Evenings will be spent in the company of locals and fellow travelers. It’s advisable to bring along a book, music, or some board games to make the most of these long, quiet nights.

While the Pamir Highway lacks the comforts of modern travel, the raw beauty of the landscapes and the warmth of the local people make it a journey worth taking. The experience is not about luxury but about connecting with nature, culture, and fellow adventurers.