Seven Lakes

Nestled in the western reaches of Tajikistan, near the city of Penjikent, lies a captivating array of interconnected mountain lakes that dazzle visitors with their ever-changing hues. Known as the Haftkul, which translates to «Seven Lakes» in Tajik, or alternatively as the Marguzor Lakes—named after the largest of the group—these lakes each boast their own distinct identity and intriguing stories. From the lowest to the highest, the lakes are: Nezhigon, Soya, Gushor, Nofin, Khurdak, Marguzor (the largest), and Hazorchashma (the highest).

Situated within the Fan Mountains in the Shing River gorge, the Seven Lakes are framed by rugged landscapes and ancient petroglyphs discovered along the shores of Marguzor. These petroglyphs suggest that the lakes have been a feature of the landscape for millennia. The lowest lake is perched at an elevation of 1,640 meters, while the highest reaches 2,400 meters, with a total elevation change of 760 meters spread across more than 14 kilometers. Most of these lakes, with the exception of the highest one, Hazorchashma, were formed through natural rock falls and landslides that gradually dammed the narrow gorge.

The water in the Marguzor Lakes is renowned for its vivid turquoise color, a result of the mineral salts dissolved in it. The most striking example is the lake of Mizhgon, whose waters remain exceptionally clear and bright even when mixed with the Shing River. While the geological formation of these lakes is well-understood, local legends add a layer of mystique. According to tradition, in ancient times, a blacksmith lived in the valley with seven beautiful daughters. The youngest of these daughters captured the heart of a local ruler, who, despite his age, wished to marry her. True to the genre of historical legends, the beautiful maiden stubbornly refused, setting the ruler a seemingly impossible task: to build a magnificent palace of gold within forty days. The ruler, driven by love, succeeded in the task, but the maiden chose a tragic fate over marriage, leaping from the palace roof on the wedding day. From the spot where she fell, the lake of Mizhgon emerged, the most beautiful of the seven, while the tears of her sisters are said to have created the other six lakes. One of these lakes, Khoshor, meaning «vigilance,» earned its name due to the presence of venomous snakes around its shores. Another lake, Hazorchashma, or «Thousand Springs,» was formed from springs and small streams, and is fed by the Gissar and Darakhti Surkh rivers. In ancient times, this lake was a crucial waypoint on one of the routes of the Great Silk Road.

Access to these lakes is facilitated by a serpentine road that winds past all seven lakes and through several nearby villages. The drive between the first and the last lake typically takes about an hour without stops. However, due to the challenging terrain between the sixth and seventh lakes, many visitors choose to hike this segment, which takes roughly 30 minutes. For those with more time, it is possible to explore the lakes over a two-day trek, with opportunities to continue into more remote valleys and discover the untouched beauty of the Fan Mountains.

In recent years, community-based tourism (CBT) initiatives have sprung up in several small villages around Nofin Lake. These programs have established guest houses and basic facilities for tourists, offering a chance to immerse in local life and culture. Camping by the river and lakes is also popular among visitors. Although four of the lakes contain small fish, they are not large enough for fishing. The lakes, fed by numerous mountain rivers, typically reach full capacity around mid-July, with water levels dropping in other seasons.

The journey begins with Nezhigon, the lowest and often the first lake you’ll see. Its name is thought to be derived from a Tajik word for «eyelashes,» although the exact connection remains elusive. Known by various names including Nezhegon, Nezhigok, and Mizhgon, this lake reaches a depth of up to 20 meters and spans an area of 0.05 square kilometers. Nezhigon is particularly renowned for its vibrant, ever-changing colors, which can range from turquoise to blue, and even purple, depending on the time of day and the season. The striking hues are a result of the high mineral content, particularly sodium and calcium, in the water. During the summer months, the lake’s waters warm up, inviting visitors to enjoy a refreshing dip in its mystical depths.

As you continue along the serpentine road from Nezhigon, you’ll cross a natural dam that separates it from the next lake, Soya. Here, a stunning view of Nezhigon unfolds, offering a chance to appreciate its beauty from afar. The name «Soya» translates to «shadow» in Tajik, a fitting description for a lake nestled between high cliffs, where it remains in the shade for much of the day. Situated at an altitude of 1,701 meters, Soya is twice the size of Nezhigon, covering an area of 0.1 square kilometers. Like its neighbor, Soya’s water changes color based on the weather and the time of day, adding to its allure.

Just 400 meters from Soya lies the third lake, Gushor. Here, you encounter a powerful current as the river flows between the lakes. At an elevation of 1,771 meters, Gushor is more than double the size of Soya, with an area of 0.23 square kilometers. Known by alternative names such as Khusher and Ishore, which are related to the concept of «watchful,» Gushor is surrounded by steep cliffs and was once home to poisonous snakes, possibly inspiring its name. During Soviet times, a campsite was established near Gushor, but it was destroyed by a landslide, leaving only traces. Despite this, the lake remains a serene and safe spot where visitors can observe schools of fish swimming in its clear waters.

The journey continues from Gushor to Nofin, which, although only 400 meters away as the crow flies, requires a winding route of nearly a kilometer. Nofin is notably elongated, stretching over 2.5 kilometers in length and only 200 meters in width, making it about twice the size of its lower counterpart, with an area of 0.48 square kilometers. At an elevation of 1,820 meters, Nofin’s name, which refers to an umbilical cord, reflects its central position among the Seven Lakes and its elongated shape. Local legends abound about Nofin, and the road along its eastern shore can sometimes flood in the summer, making it difficult for vehicles to pass. A small village with guest houses run by the local community is located at the far end of the lake.

Khurdak, the smallest of the Seven Lakes, covers just 0.025 square kilometers. The name «Khurdak» translates to «baby» in Tajik, reflecting its diminutive size. Located at an altitude of 1,870 meters and situated 1.5 kilometers from Nofin, Khurdak is nestled between the lakes, with the village of Padrut lying nearby. Padrut once housed a small microhydropower station that provided electricity to the village and surrounding areas.

Marguzor is the largest and arguably the most beautiful of the Seven Lakes. To reach it, continue along the serpentine road for more than 2 kilometers from Khurdak, climbing to an elevation of 2,140 meters. Marguzor Lake stretches 2.7 kilometers in length, covers an area of 1.16 square kilometers, and reaches a maximum depth of 45 meters. The expansive jade-blue waters, framed by majestic mountains, create a breathtaking landscape. Petroglyphs from early inhabitants have been found on the shores of Marguzor, and historical evidence suggests that semiprecious stones were mined in the area during the Middle Ages. A small village on the southern shore continues to thrive, and locals enjoy sharing legends and fairy tales about Marguzor. The road along the eastern shore of the lake can flood, making access challenging without a robust vehicle. From the southern tip of the lake, a popular hiking trail leads to the Tavasang Pass (3,307 meters), offering some of the most scenic views in the Fan Mountains.

The highest of the Seven Lakes, Hazorchashma, is situated at around 2,400 meters above sea level. It is the second-largest lake in the series, almost matching Marguzor in size, with a length of 2 kilometers and an area of 0.92 square kilometers. The name Hazorchashma translates to «a thousand springs,» referring to the numerous water sources that feed the lake both on the surface and underground. Hazorchashma is the final lake in the Shing River gorge, and beyond it lies only the untamed wilderness of the Fan Mountains. The road ends at the northern shore of the lake, and most visitors see only this side. However, reaching the southern shore through hiking reveals a magnificent view of Hazorchashma and, in the distance, Marguzor and potentially the other lakes.

Accessing the Seven Lakes requires traveling by car from Penjikent. After a short drive on the main road to Dushanbe, you’ll turn onto a smaller paved road that eventually becomes a dirt track. The journey takes about an hour. Due to its proximity to the Uzbek border, you can also reach the lakes from Samarkand via the Jartepa-Sarazm border crossing, though this adds time to the 100-kilometer journey.

To fully experience the Seven Lakes, it is recommended to allocate at least a full day. Although the distance is relatively short, you’ll likely want to spend 10-20 minutes at each lake, and up to an hour at some. If time allows, local community-based tourism projects offer valuable insights into the local way of life. Staying overnight provides the opportunity to enjoy incredible hikes and stunning views of the Seven Lakes amidst the Fan Mountains.