Sultan Kala

Omar Khayyam, born in Nishapur in Eastern Iran in 1040, was a brilliant mathematician, physicist, and astronomer. His work on the calendar system was so precise that it surpassed the accuracy of modern systems by seven seconds. Khayyam’s interest in the cyclical nature of matter is reflected in his now-famous quatrains, or «rubaiyat,» where he explored themes of impermanence and the human condition.

Khayyam’s poetry, characterized by its brevity and profound insight, often delves into the contradictions of existence. He highlighted the dual nature of life, encapsulating complex ideas with striking simplicity. For instance, in one of his rubaiyat, he writes: «We are the source of joy and the mine of sorrow. We are vessels of impurity and pure springs. Man is like a mirror to the world—insignificant yet infinitely grand.»

The Old Merv of the 12th century flourished under the long reign of Sultan Sanjar, the last of the Great Seljuks. His court was graced by talented poets such as Ali Auhadadeen Enweri, Amid Kamali, Muizzi, and the poetess Mahisti. During this period, trade thrived, with the ancient Silk Road continuing to channel goods from China through Merv to the Mediterranean. This trade route, dating back to antiquity, also connected Merv with India to the south and Khorezm and the nomadic tribes to the north, extending as far as the Volga River.

One of the ancient caravan routes passed through the harsh, desolate Ustyurt Plateau. Along these trade routes, caravanserais were built—structures designed to accommodate and protect travelers and their goods. One notable example is the Oda-Mergen caravanserai, located on the route from Merv to Khorezm.

These caravanserais were often fortified complexes with large courtyards, high walls, and living quarters. The construction of such buildings in the 11th and 12th centuries attracted prominent architects, leading to the creation of architectural masterpieces like the Daya-Khatun caravanserai, believed to have been commissioned by Sultan Sanjar in the early 12th century. This structure, remarkably well-preserved, stands as a testament to the grandeur of that era.

Within Merv itself, commercial buildings reminiscent of caravanserais, along with large market structures known as tymes and charsu, were integral parts of the city’s layout. The houses in Merv were typically square, often two stories high, with a central hall (mihmanhana) covered by a dome. From this central space, doors led to corner rooms on both floors. Unlike the fortified country castles (keshks) of earlier times, which had main entrances on the second floor, Merv’s urban houses had their main entrances on the ground floor. Some houses even had four arched entrances leading directly into the mihmanhana, one on each side.

However, these structures—houses, caravanserais, and artisan workshops—are now buried in the ruins of medieval Merv. To the untrained eye, these remnants are invisible, yet they hold stories of a once-thriving city that was a beacon of culture, science, and trade in the medieval world.