Nokhur

Nokhur is a small, remote village nestled in the mountains of Turkmenistan, perched at an elevation of 1,000 meters above sea level. The journey to this “paradise on earth” is long and challenging, with steep climbs, descents, and winding mountain roads. However, all the difficulties of the road are forgotten when you finally arrive at this breathtakingly beautiful place, encircled by towering mountains on all sides.

A four-hour drive from Ashgabat, located in the western part of the Kopet Dag range, lies the region inhabited by the Nokhur, a mountain tribe of Turkmens who have preserved their unique culture, traditional crafts, and distinctive architecture for centuries. Nokhur, also known as Nohur, is recognized as one of the 100 most romantic places in the world. The picturesque villages of Old and New Nokhur, set on a mountain plateau, are renowned for their beautiful two-story houses with unique architectural styles, clinging to the cliffs amidst vineyards, almond, and pomegranate trees.

According to local legends, the village’s name is derived from the biblical prophet Noah. After a 40-day journey, Noah’s Ark is said to have come to rest on Mount Manoman. The words «nokh» or «nukh» are believed to mean «hit,» reflecting the Ark’s landing. The locals attribute the rich variety of Nokhur’s flora and fauna to a tale where Noah’s son, Nukh, released all the animals and birds from the Ark in Nokhur and planted the seeds that had been preserved during the flood.

Nokhur is divided into Upper and Lower Nokhur, with the latter also known as Old Nokhur, home to an ancient cemetery with “horned” tombstones. The Nokhur tribe, residing on the hillsides amidst picturesque almond and pomegranate orchards, has maintained their unique handcraft traditions and architectural styles, which display influences of Indian culture and way of life.

One of the natural wonders in Nokhur is the Khur-Khuri waterfall, which cascades down from a height of 53 meters, fed by several small mountain streams. Another intriguing site is the “Dev’s House” cave, a narrow crevice in the rock that descends into deep darkness. Local legends claim that mysterious and intimidating voices can be heard from within the cave at night. Nearby, you can also visit the highest peak in the Kopet Dag range, known as “The Three Wells.”

In the village of Nokhur, an ancient sycamore tree stands, its hollow large enough to accommodate several people. On the outskirts of the village lies Giz Bibi, a narrow crack in the rock that locals believe to be one of the gates to paradise. It’s said that if you make a wish here, it will surely come true.

Nokhur is also famous for its distinctive and colorful national headscarves known as nokhur-gynajy. These large scarves, worn by married women over their headgear, are renowned far beyond the region. Among the Turkmens, such scarves were considered the most valuable and precious gifts, symbolizing special attention, morality, and purity. Bringing home a beautiful Nokhur scarf as a souvenir will ensure that your trip to this remarkable place remains unforgettable.

As of 1981, Nokhur had a population of about 4,000 people. While current population figures are not available, it’s likely that the number has significantly increased since then. The village occupies the entire valley, with new houses being built higher and higher up the mountain slopes.

The inhabitants of Nokhur are a unique ethnographic group of Turkmens, known as Nokhurs, who have a strong sense of identity and a distinct dialect of the Turkmen language, which is closely related to the western Turkic languages. Their way of life and social structure also differ from other groups, making the village’s rural architecture particularly interesting. Almost all homes in Nokhur are built from stone, often resembling miniature fortresses. The village is crisscrossed by narrow streets that ascend the slopes, and almost every house has a glazed veranda. Many Nokhurs now live in Ashgabat, with a significant number engaged in entrepreneurship while maintaining close ties to their ancestral village.

The climate in Nokhur can be quite harsh. During severe winters, snow can remain on the ground for two weeks or more, with temperatures dropping to as low as -20°C. Typically, however, snow lasts only a few days before giving way to milder weather. Most of the annual precipitation falls in spring, when the weather is unpredictable. The peak of spring, marked by the blooming of wildflowers and grasses on the slopes, occurs in April. Summer temperatures in Nokhur are not as extreme as in the foothills, though they can still be quite high, averaging between 30 and 35°C.

Nokhur is one of the most landslide-prone areas in Turkmenistan. In recent decades, the region has experienced multiple devastating floods, resulting in destruction and loss of life. Many villagers cultivate their own gardens, growing crops such as potatoes, cabbage, onions, and pumpkins, as well as fruits like apples, pears, cherries, plums, and walnuts. Almost every household keeps livestock, including cows, goats, sheep, and poultry, and produces their own dairy products.

The folks in the village of Nokhur mark graves with wild mountain goat horns. The notches in the wooden markers represent stairs into the afterlife. This village has two such cemetaries, with thousands of graves marked with mountain goat’s horns.

Wooden posts adorned with the horns of a mountain goat are thought to fight off evil spirits, and help the soul of the deceased to ensure a safe passage to heaven. Aside from their appearances at the village cemetery, skulls of mountain goats are found at some of the houses’ doorways of the village as well.

The Nokhuris, the mountain tribe of the region, have always considered mountain goats sacred animals, admiring their strength and endurance. The reverence of mountain goats clearly predate Islamic traditions, and although today the Nokhuris are devout Muslims, parts of the ancient belief system has continued to survive.

The cemetery of Nokhur is an excellent example of how Islam works in Central Asia. Other than in the Middle East where the arrival of Islam virtually erased all traces of pre-Islamic religions, in Central Asia certain parts of pre-Islamic belief systems have simply been incorporated into the newly arrived religion, creating a syncretism often symbolized in the burial rites of local tribes.