Mele Kheiran

Approximately 15 kilometers east of modern-day Serakhs lies the ancient site of Mele Kheiran, marked by a large mound rising nearly 7 meters above the surrounding plain, accompanied by four smaller mounds, each reaching up to 3.5 meters in height. During excavations on the main mound, archaeologists uncovered the ruins of a monumental structure that once served as a fire temple. Coins discovered at the site, dating back to the late Parthian and Sassanid periods, suggest that the temple was constructed in the early centuries of our era. Due to the well-preserved interior details, Mele Kheiran is a significant historical site that offers valuable insights into the ancient rituals of a Zoroastrian temple. However, these details are challenging to interpret, as similar ancient monuments are rare, and their internal arrangements are largely unknown.

To understand the function of each room within the Mele Kheiran temple, researchers have had to compare it with other Zoroastrian sanctuaries, despite significant chronological gaps between them. The nearest comparable temples to the Serakhs Oasis are found in Akdepe near the Artyk station in the Kaahka district and in Dergez, located on the Turkmen-Iranian border.

Scholars believe that the temple was a repository for the «Great» fire, known in Zoroastrianism as «Victorious,» symbolizing triumph in the eternal struggle between good and evil. The Sassanid name for this fire was Atash-Bahram. These sacred fires were ignited using embers from many other holy fires, which had been purified and consecrated through lengthy rituals.

The discoveries at Mele Kheiran are crucial for interpreting the famous central part of the temple at Takht-e Soleyman in Iran, which features a similar cruciform chamber with a central dome. A comparable design, including a square basin filled with ashes, was also found during recent excavations at Kuh-e Khwaja in Iranian Sistan. These three ancient structures can be viewed as potential prototypes for the modern Zoroastrian temple, the dwelling place of the ever-burning Victorious fire.

In Mele Kheiran, the lower portions of the walls, complete with passages and niches, have been well preserved, as well as a circular altar in the center of the hall. Of particular value are the plaster panels adorned with intricate carvings. This discovery marks the first instance of artistic carvings from the Sassanid era found in Turkmenistan. Such exquisite craftsmanship reflects deep local traditions of decorative carving in the Khorasan region, which flourished in the architecture of the 11th and 12th centuries.

During the excavations, rare artifacts were unearthed, including carved bone items depicting various deities from the ancient pantheon, as well as human and animal figures, alongside bronze and ceramic objects. These findings provide a fascinating glimpse into the rich cultural and religious life of the ancient inhabitants of the region.

Around the world, fewer than five Zoroastrian fire temples from this ancient period are known to exist, yet none compare to the unique structure of Mele Kheiran. Constructed primarily from adobe bricks, this temple was built using the most advanced technologies of its time. The sanctuary was meticulously planned to ensure the complete isolation of the Atashdan, the sacred fire altar, from the eyes of the uninitiated. Access to the fire altar was restricted to a select group of devoted guardians and priests of the sacred flame of Ahura Mazda. The fire in the altar burned for centuries, though it was periodically renewed following a specific purification ritual. Only a priest, dressed in a white robe, white cap, white gloves, and a light veil to prevent his breath from defiling the divine flame, was allowed to tend to the fire.

The priests maintained the fire continuously, and the accumulated ashes were collected in special caskets, which were then distributed to worshippers gathered in the temple courtyard.

The reason why the temple was ultimately abandoned by its priests remains a mystery. However, the Mele Kheiran temple has survived in remarkable condition, as it was carefully «sealed» by its creators. The priests meticulously bricked up all doorways and corridors using adobe bricks without any binding mortar. Unfortunately, by the time scholars began their studies, all the temple’s treasures and Zoroastrian ritual objects had been removed, and the wall paintings had been destroyed.

Historians believe that Mele Kheiran was more than just another Zoroastrian temple. It was the Temple of the Victorious Fire, symbolizing the triumph of Good over Evil. This is evidenced by the discovery of terracotta figurines representing the forces of Evil. People came to the Temple of the Victorious Fire to seek protection and assistance, and on festive days, hundreds of locals gathered here to participate in sacred Zoroastrian rituals and to reaffirm the central tenet of Zoroastrianism: good thoughts give rise to good words, which in turn lead to good deeds—this is the key to eternal paradise.

The Mele Kheiran temple flourished during the Sassanid era (3rd to 7th centuries). At this time, Zoroastrianism was the official religion, and the temples housed immense wealth in the form of luxurious gold, silver, and bronze artifacts. The significance of Zoroastrian temples within the state hierarchy is underscored by the fact that all Sassanid coins feature the fire altar, where the Shahanshah (King of Kings) was blessed with the divine right to rule by Ahura Mazda, the supreme deity.

The Sassanid period is also reflected in the unique, unparalleled carved gypsum panels that once adorned the temple’s domed hall. These panels, crafted by the hands of a skilled artisan, feature intricate details of complex vegetal motifs, including relief images of lotus flowers and clover leaves.

However, by the late 5th and early 6th centuries, the Sassanid Empire was in deep crisis, embroiled in endless, costly wars on both its western and eastern fronts. In this critical situation, it is believed that the «inviolable» temples of the sacred fire, including Mele Kheiran, were sealed. The priests likely hoped to return one day to continue their sacred mission, but their hopes were never realized. It is only through the dedicated efforts of archaeologists that the Temple of the Victorious Fire at Mele Kheiran has been brought back from the obscurity of history, revealing to the world the rich cultural and historical heritage of the Turkmen people.