The Toshev family’s intimate relationship with suzane embroidery began as a mere hobby. It was only at the dawn of the 21st century that their passion blossomed into a thriving workshop and store. This unique enterprise was born from a fortunate accident. Rakhmon Toshev, once a salesman in a modest grocery store, would spend quiet hours sewing suzane, an art his mother taught him. One day, his handiwork caught the eye of British tourists who, captivated by the incomplete suzane, insisted on purchasing it. Surprised and unsure of its value, Rakhmon allowed them to pay what they felt was right. This unexpected income not only helped with household expenses and his son’s education but also illuminated his path, guiding him to his life’s calling.
A few years after establishing their workshop, the Toshev family moved into an old house, situated close to Bukhara’s tourist hub, the Lyabi-Hauz ensemble. This century-old house, previously home to Bukhara Jews, now shelters the Toshev family and their craft. After significant renovations, the ground floor was transformed into a quaint store and workshop, while the family resides upstairs.
Entering the Toshev family workshop is like stepping into a rainbow of suzanes. There are hundreds of them, each unique in size, color, and the stories they tell through their mesmerizing patterns. Suzanes, traditionally used as wall hangings similar to European tapestries, now find their beautiful embroidery adorning bags, purses, suits, and skullcaps.
Among the sea of stunning suzanes, some pieces stand out with their extraordinary histories. For instance, a suzane made by the family’s grandmother, a labor of love she invested 15 years of her life into. There are large, unfinished suzanes, projects the family has been working on for several years. And then, there are ancient masterpieces, a century old, crafted by blind artisans who weaved their magic solely through touch.
A visit to the Toshev family’s suzane workshop is also a dive into the rich history of this art form. In times past, a girl was expected to stitch four suzanes before her wedding. It was through these creations that prospective suitors and matchmakers could glimpse her personality and qualities, as all women then wore burqas. The colors, patterns, and the quality of the embroidery spoke volumes about her hard work, diligence, and worldview. Interestingly, back then, men were also heavily involved in embroidering suzane, as women in the Bukhara Emirate couldn’t take orders from the wealthy — a reflection of the societal norms of that era. A man’s ability to embroider suzane was crucial for understanding the customer’s preferences.
To explore this vibrant craft, head south from the Lyabi-Hauz pond for about 100 meters, take a left by the ‘Sultan’ hotel, and then turn into the first alley on your left. Continue for another 40 meters to the end of the alley. A wooden door, ornately decorated with copper ring handles, will greet you on the right at the fork. This is your gateway to the enchanting world of Bukhara suzane.
The intricate patterns and vibrant colors of the suzanes tell stories of tradition, dedication, and artistic excellence. A visit to this workshop offers a unique opportunity to witness the magic of suzane embroidery and to be a part of a legacy that has been lovingly preserved and passed down through generations.
