On October 3-4, 2024 the Toshkent non shahri festival, meaning “Tashkent – the City of Bread,” took place in the Gulbazar neighborhood of Tashkent. This vibrant event brought together dozens of bakers from the capital and various regions of Uzbekistan, showcasing 50 different types of traditional bread and modern baked goods. Attendees were treated to a display of finished products and the fascinating process of bread-making.
Gulbazar, located in the historic “Old City” of Tashkent, is a compact area characterized by traditional single- and two-story buildings. It is home to approximately 2,670 residents, many of whom are engaged in national crafts and trade. The neighborhood has recently seen development efforts, with the opening of a 24-hour tourist street, which aims to enhance the area’s appeal to visitors while preserving its historical charm.
The festival served as an excellent introduction to Uzbekistan’s rich bread-making traditions, particularly the iconic round lepyoshka, which is often freshly baked in a clay tandir oven. This bread is more than just a staple; it symbolizes prosperity, abundance, and the warmth of Uzbek hospitality. For many Uzbeks, lepyoshka is a vital part of breakfast, lunch, and dinner, often enjoyed with green tea or alongside fruits and vegetables.
Among the most notable is the Tashkent lochira-non, a traditional unleavened bread that has gained recognition beyond Uzbekistan. Modern bakers have paid special attention to its design, crafting it into wide plates or small, deep bowls. This bread is not only edible but also serves as a unique serving dish, capable of holding a portion of plov or other dishes.
Samarkand is famous for its lacquered galla-osiegi-non, which can weigh up to two kilograms. The recipe for this bread is complex and labor-intensive, passed down through generations. The resulting bread is dense, gray, and long-lasting, often remaining edible for years if stored properly. Traditionally, before embarking on a long journey, men would break off a piece of this bread to share with loved ones, symbolizing their return. In addition to its culinary uses, these beautifully decorated breads have become popular souvenirs for tourists, often given as gifts or hung on walls as decorative elements.
Fergana, Kokand, and Namangan regions are known for their gidja breads, made from high-quality white flour with generous amounts of milk and butter, resulting in a melt-in-the-mouth texture.
At the festival, Namangan lepyoshka stood out for its exceptional taste, with bakers enthusiastically offering samples to guests. However, gastronomic experts present at the event noted that southern gray and unleavened breads, including the lacquered varieties, are healthier options. Each region also has its own special recipes for medicinal breads known as doktor-non.
Traditional Uzbek breads are baked in clay tandirs, using wood as fuel, ideally from dry grapevines or fruit tree branches. The temperature inside a tandir can reach around 400 degrees Celsius, with the walls reaching approximately 300 degrees. Depending on the type, breads are baked for 3 to 7 minutes. Those with meat fillings are shaped like a round loaf with a hole in the center to ensure even cooking, while other breads feature a dense dough circle on top, decorated with patterns using a special tool called “chekich.” Before baking, breads are often sprinkled with poppy seeds, sesame seeds, cumin, and occasionally other spices and natural colorings.
Once baked, breads should not be placed face down or cut with a knife; instead, they are broken by hand and shared among guests at the table. The three main types of Uzbek breads are obi non (everyday bread), katlama (unleavened layered bread), and patir (rich, often layered bread), all of which are essential in the cuisine of every Uzbek region.
The Toshkent non shahri festival attracted over 5,000 visitors, providing a wonderful opportunity to celebrate the rich bread culture of Uzbekistan.
Driving through scenic mountain roads
Cable car ride to Kumbel Ridge
Panoramic views of Big Chimgan
Horseback riding in mountain gorge
Lunch at a local restaurant