Yodgorlik silk factory

Established in 1972, Yodgorlik became the largest silk production facility in the Fergana Valley. From 1982 to 1993, it operated as a state enterprise, later transitioning into private ownership in 2000. Today, it stands as the largest silk factory in Uzbekistan, where natural silk fabrics are crafted using traditional manual techniques. In addition to pure silk, the factory also produces semi-silk fabrics such as adras, which are more affordable and easier to maintain, as well as high-quality cotton textiles.

Currently, Yodgorlik employs 450 workers, 60% of whom are women. Each year, they produce approximately 100,000 square meters of fabric, over half of which is silk. The factory also manufactures handwoven silk carpets and finely crafted metalwork.

As in the golden era of the Great Silk Road, the fabrics produced at Yodgorlik, including its silks, are exported to many countries worldwide. Tourists visiting the factory can witness the intricate process of silk-making firsthand and even purchase a piece of authentic Margilan silk, woven by the skilled hands of local artisans.

For visitors to Margilan, this factory is a must-see destination. Upon arrival, be sure to take a guided tour. The journey begins at the on-site shop, where guided tours are offered—highly recommended, as most workers speak only Uzbek and may not be able to explain the process otherwise. The tour lasts about 30 minutes and provides an immersive look into the entire silk-making process within a fully functioning production facility.

You will see how silk threads are unraveled from cocoons, spun, prepared for dyeing, and woven into stunning textiles and carpets. The dyeing process, the intricate weaving of silk and other fabrics, and even the creation of handwoven carpets are all demonstrated in remarkable detail. It is truly a fascinating experience! There is also a workshop where traditional looms are in operation, allowing visitors to observe the weavers at work.

The factory shop offers a selection of fabrics and clothing, as well as unique handmade gifts. The factory grounds themselves are beautiful, adorned with fruit trees, and visitors are welcome to explore, touch the fabrics, and even purchase exclusive souvenirs.

A fine cotton fabric (40 cm wide) costs around $3 per meter, while pure silk fabric of the same width is priced at approximately $15 per meter. Given the handmade nature of the work, the pricing is more than reasonable.

The Yodgorlik factory is conveniently located in the city center, just a five-minute walk from the bus station.

The renowned silk fabrics begin with raw materials—silkworm cocoons, which are still largely produced through traditional home-based methods. The silkworms are raised in special rooms at room temperature, without exposure to sunlight, and are fed delicate spring mulberry leaves. The caterpillars spin their cocoons, forming soft, white, fluffy spheres where they undergo their metamorphosis into butterflies. The entire cocoon formation process takes about 24 days, spanning from mid-April to mid-May.

Since production does not operate year-round, Yodgorlik purchases 7–8 tons of cocoons annually. From a single thread measuring 429 meters in length, only one gram of silk is obtained, and a square meter of fabric weighs a mere 17 grams.

To transform the cocoons into silk threads, they are first immersed in vats of hot water.

The next stage involves warping the threads on a special warping “carousel,” preparing them for the following processes.

The threads are then wound onto two rollers, secured in place, and marked at specific points where knots will be tied.

Afterward, the warp threads are dyed.

Remarkably, wood-fired stoves are still used for this process.

The result of dyeing…

Natural dyes are preferred whenever possible, while synthetic dyes are mainly reserved for mechanized production of more affordable fabrics.

The hand-weaving workshop where colorful threads are transformed into finished textiles.

Most of the artisans here are women.

The finest and most expensive fabrics are created entirely by hand, without the use of looms or auxiliary machinery. Every step of silk fabric production is done manually, from reeling the cocoons to the final fabric

The factory also has a mechanical workshop for producing silk textiles, though these fabrics are about a third less expensive.

Much of the equipment still in use dates back to Soviet times.

It is remarkable how machines built half a century ago continue to function reliably—a testament to the durability of these simple yet sturdy mechanisms.

Uzbek silk fabrics are inseparable from their national patterns. “We have highly skilled artists and designers who create new patterns, while also preserving the classic designs,” says owner Abdullaev. Drawing inspiration from the surrounding landscapes and the world around them, the ornamentation masters enrich inherited traditions with new colors and innovations, giving each pattern a unique name.

People at our factory don’t work just for money—they want to preserve the craft of fabric-making. My whole life has been spent here, and I truly love my work,” confesses the owner of the Yodgorlik factory.

Looking to the Future

The Yodgorlik factory has become not only a key textile enterprise in Uzbekistan but also a major tourist attraction. Travelers are drawn to the opportunity to witness silk production as it was practiced centuries ago. Every day, about 150 tourists from around the world visit the factory, where guided tours showcase the intricate process of creating exquisite fabrics and carpets. Visitors can also purchase silk by the meter or ready-made garments in traditional styles at the factory’s shop.

The factory management is committed to further developing industrial tourism, contributing to the promotion and economic growth of their hometown.

To achieve this, Yodgorlik has partnered with other artisans and textile producers in Margilan. “The pandemic has been incredibly tough on craftsmen worldwide, especially in Uzbekistan. We are working together to overcome these challenges and are developing various projects,” explains Shuhrat Ergashev, director of the textile enterprise Matolar Group and a partner of Yodgorlik.

“Nothing remains of ancient Margilan today, but we aim to recreate it—not exactly as it was, but on a smaller scale. Hotels and cafés will be built, and artisans will live and work here. The heart of the city will be the Yodgorlik factory. This will attract tourists to Margilan and help everyone recover from these difficult times.”

And with that, our journey through the factory comes to an end. Thank you for your attention!