Canal of Kalkaus

In the heart of Tashkent, where the arid climate leaves no room for genuine rivers, water holds a unique allure. The absence of flowing water would have precluded the rise of urban civilization in this region. Over 2,000 years ago, the first manmade canals were carved into the earth, channeling water from the Chirchik River, which flows down from the Western Tian Shan mountains, to the hilly loess plateau that would become a fertile ground for irrigated agriculture.

When the Arabs conquered the oasis of Shash from the Turkic Khaganate in the 8th century, the area around today’s Chorsu market was already home to the streets of a medieval city. Its lush orchards, known as sebzars, thrived on the numerous irrigation channels branching from the ancient Kalkaus Canal.

However, the 20th century saw a transformation in Tashkent’s water supply system. Artesian wells, treatment plants, and modern plumbing diminished the significance of canals and irrigation ditches in the city’s water distribution and overall appearance. Except for the main waterways, much of this intricate network has been concealed beneath the ground. Yet, when the turquoise streams resurface, they once again create unique urban landscapes and microclimates, reminiscent of their historical significance.

This area possesses a distinctive character that captivates travelers in search of genuine, vibrant exoticism rather than mere tourist attractions. In the maze of narrow alleys and adobe walls, branches of apricot, persimmon, and pomegranate trees bend toward the river. Quails sing, women wash pots in the flowing streams, and groups of men gather in tea houses overlooking the water.

The Kalkaus Canal is one of the oldest waterways in Tashkent, originating from the main channel of Bozsu, the city’s primary water artery, located half a kilometer upstream from the Sheikhantahur Hydroelectric Power Station. The canal’s name is steeped in mythology. As noted by Russian geographer Alexander Ivanovich Dobromyslov in his 1912 historical essay “Tashkent in the Past and Present,” the canal is named after the legendary Persian king Kai Kavus, a character in the epic poem “Shahnameh” by Ferdowsi.

“It is said that the conqueror of Turan, Kai Kavus, dug a main irrigation ditch in the city, which still exists under the name Kalkaus,” he wrote. Notably, two other major canals in Tashkent—Salar and Zah—are also named after heroes from the “Shahnameh.”

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Kalkaus played a pivotal role in Tashkent’s water supply system. It fed 48 smaller irrigation ditches that nourished the gardens of the Old City. Dobromyslov observed that, unlike most Tashkent canals, Kalkaus did not require regular cleaning, “possessing the character of a swift river.”

In 1865, during the second assault on Tashkent, Russian General Chernyaev destroyed the dam at the source of Bozsu, halting the flow of water into Kalkaus—a strategic move aimed at hastening the city’s capitulation. Today, the upper stretch of the canal, known as Katta Kalkaus (“Big Kalkaus”), is a powerful stream flowing through a concrete channel, with a flow rate of 40 cubic meters per second.

At the intersection of Sebzar and Tahtapul streets, the canal splits into two. To the west, the main flow is diverted by Kichkirik (“Late Drying”), which features a steep section known as “Sharshera” (“Waterfall”), transformed into a popular attraction by local tea house owners and restaurateurs. A few kilometers downstream, in 2019, city authorities developed the waterfront and landscaped park known as the “Tashkent Riviera.”

The remaining water flows southwest through the historical neighborhood (mahalla) of Koh-Ata toward the Hast Imam Square, continuing to be called Kalkaus. In winter and early spring, its ancient bed dries up, but as the snow melts, murky waters laden with loess and clay return, transforming by mid-summer into stunning shades of blue and turquoise. By late August, the water becomes crystal clear, although the bottom is often thickly overgrown with algae and aquatic plants, creating a vibrant ecosystem.

On the streets of Uylanish and Tarikh, the banks of the Kalkaus Canal delight tourists, forming what is whimsically referred to as “Tashkent’s Venice.” At its narrowest point, the walls of the houses nearly touch the water, and the canal flows directly beneath the floor of one of the buildings, creating an enchanting atmosphere that draws visitors in.

Yet, the story of the Kalkaus does not end here. Emerging from underground on the other side of Sagban Street, the stream continues its journey through the Guzarboshi neighborhood, now without a waterfront, meandering through gardens and orchards. 

While such scenes may ignite the enthusiasm of urban renewal advocates, local historians argue that these pockets of history within Tashkent deserve to exist. They advocate for preserving these areas in their pristine, untouched state, ensuring that the architecture of Uzbekistan’s capital retains its uniqueness and authenticity.

As the Kalkaus Canal travels 5.5 kilometers from its source to the intersection with Farobi Street, opposite the Chigatay Cemetery, it splits into the Kukcha and Chigatay canals. These waterways traverse the historic districts of Tashkent before flowing beyond the city limits to merge with the waters of the Karakamysh Canal, which in turn returns its flows to the Bozsu Canal.