Uzbekistan is often celebrated for its iconic landmarks—the stunning Registan in Samarkand, the historic Ark in Bukhara, the towering Tashkent TV Tower, and the rusting ships stranded at the bottom of the desiccated Aral Sea. However, this Central Asian nation is also home to a wealth of wild and pristine locations, inhabited by simple, open-hearted, and hospitable people. One such place is the breathtaking Pskem Valley, a remarkable mountainous region nestled within rocky gorges between the towering peaks of the Ugam and Pskem ranges in northern Tashkent Province. Notably, this valley was only opened to foreign tourists in 2018 due to its proximity to the borders of neighboring republics.
In Pskem Valley, everything is unusual, and diverse elements coexist harmoniously. The names of rivers, mountains, and settlements may bear Kazakh origins, reflecting the area’s history as part of the Kazakh SSR until 1956. Meanwhile, the local population often communicates in Tajik, a testament to the region’s historical complexities. At the foot of the mountains, summer’s warmth still lingers, while the slopes above begin to don the golden hues of autumn. Higher up, the snowy peaks glisten under the sun, creating a stunning contrast against the changing seasons.
One of the closest settlements to Tashkent, just 127 kilometers away, is the village of Ispey, perched on a steep rocky plateau along the left bank of the Pskem River. From a distance, it’s not immediately apparent that this is a populated area; around forty single-story houses are entirely enveloped by the surrounding greenery. The distinctive pyramidal poplars, which only grow near human habitation in Uzbekistan, serve as indicators of life in this hidden enclave.
The residents of Ispey are fully engaged in pastoral livestock farming, with each family tending to their own sheep, goats, cows, horses, and donkeys. Beekeeping is also prevalent, contributing to the village’s self-sufficiency. A city tourist, encountering these remote lands for the first time, once expressed astonishment: “Why live here at all? I understand it’s beautiful for travel, but how can one live in a place devoid of any production, organizations, or institutions?” To this, a local replied, “I eat meat every day. You do too, but you buy it. To buy it, you work for someone else. I work for myself and my family.” This ancient philosophy captures the essence of life in Ispey.
Life in Ispey continues at its own pace, largely independent of tourism. During the day, the village is eerily quiet. Residents emerge closer to sunset, returning from the mountains with their flocks. Some animals find their way home on their own, guided by herding dogs and their shepherds. Simultaneously, gatherers return with their harvests of walnuts, rose hips, blackberries, medicinal herbs, and other gifts of the mountain autumn.
In this untouched corner of Uzbekistan, the intertwining of nature and culture creates a unique tapestry that enchants all who venture into its depths. Pskem Valley invites explorers to experience its raw beauty and the timeless way of life that flourishes within its embrace.
Driving through scenic mountain roads
Cable car ride to Kumbel Ridge
Panoramic views of Big Chimgan
Horseback riding in mountain gorge
Lunch at a local restaurant