Valley of Paltau

A decade later, the scientific community largely accepted the latter perspective, which is now considered well-supported. Although the fervor surrounding the Obi-Rahmat grotto has since cooled, the valley of the Paltau River retains its exceptional significance, showcasing a continuous evolution of human culture from the earliest stone tools to metalworking, all while preserving its natural landscape largely unchanged through the ages.

The name “Paltau” is derived from the distorted term “Pulad-tau,” meaning “Iron Mountain.” This region earned its name due to its historical richness in iron ore. During the Middle Ages, iron mines flourished here, and remnants of smelting furnaces can still be found. Fortunately, the mineral deposits were not extensive, having been fully exhausted long before modern times. Yet, the rich presence of iron is still evident in the hues of the local limestone, ranging from brick-red to lemon-yellow.

The vibrant colors lend a unique charm to the valley’s main tourist attraction—the grand Paltau Waterfall. A powerful column of water cascades from a height of forty meters into a semi-circular, almost enclosed basin resembling a gigantic well. Surrounding the waterfall, pieces of limestone are found, imprinted with the traces of ancient plants and living organisms. Despite tourists frequently taking these fragments as souvenirs, their numbers remain unchanged. Archaeologists suggest that these limestone pieces may have served as convenient raw materials for early humans crafting their first stone tools.

The mountain slopes around the waterfall are blanketed in lush vegetation, featuring ephemeral plants, sorrel, and a thicket of thorny shrubs, including rose hips, blackberries, and hawthorn. As one ascends, junipers, wild plums, cherry plums, and walnuts begin to appear, creating a rich tapestry of flora.

Beyond a low pass, a relic birch grove is preserved in a vast, deep hollow.

While birches are common in the Western Tien Shan mountains, they are considered exotic in Uzbekistan. During the time of the Neanderthals, birch forests, alongside maple, hornbeam, spruce, and fir, were typical landscapes of the region. Over subsequent eras, coniferous trees, apart from the juniper, retreated far north. However, birch groves still thrive in the basins of the Pskem, Koksu, and Chatkal rivers, with the grove in the Paltau Valley being the closest to Tashkent.

This birch forest is strikingly different from those found in central Russia or Siberia. The trees, clustered closely together in the valley’s bottom, often intertwine their gnarled trunks, creating a surreal resemblance to “birch jungles.” The heavy winter snowfalls bend the canopies, breaking the trunks of the tallest birches, which continue to thrive, forming shady arches. Beneath these natural canopies, crystal-clear streams flow from the Shirin Bulak (“Sweet Spring”), renowned for its exceptionally palatable water.

Residents of small villages bordering the Ugam-Chatkal National Park are permitted to collect dead birchwood for domestic use, as cooking and heating in this remote area rely solely on firewood. Life in these mountainous settlements is devoid of many modern conveniences and is intricately tied to nature. Here, small herds of livestock are grazed, beehives are maintained, nuts and fruits are harvested, and knowledge of the medicinal properties of roots and herbs is passed down through generations.

The wildlife in the Paltau Valley today is typical of the Western Tien Shan mountains. Among the findings in the Obi Rahmat cave, archaeologists uncovered numerous bones of small predatory mammals of the feline family, remains of large birds, porcupines, jackals, and cave lions. Notably, the ancient cultural layers showed no signs of modern species such as horses, turtles, wolves, or bears.

In October, it is challenging to spot any animal larger than a Tien Shan field mouse or a fox in the birch grove. However, as winter approaches, bears and wolves descend from the high ridges and often wander into these secluded hollows. In spring and summer, flocks of various birds can be observed, including entire broods of mountain partridges—called kekliks—descending from the cliffs to peck at the seeds of wild garlic.

Traveling through the Paltau Valley allows one to glimpse the world as early humans once saw it. 

@ Andrey Kudryashov / “Fergana”