Old Khndzoresk is a highland village in southern Armenia that once bustled with life and now serves as a captivating site for excursions into the country’s unique cultural and geological past. Built into towering cliffs over the course of centuries, this once-thriving settlement was home to over 8,000 people as recently as the mid-20th century. Today, its stone-carved dwellings stand empty, preserved as silent witnesses to a vanished way of life. The Armenian government eventually relocated the population to a newly constructed village—New Khndzoresk—offering improved living conditions just a short distance away. Old Khndzoresk lies in the Syunik Province, just 13 kilometers from the city of Goris.
Two etymological theories surround the name “Khndzoresk.” One suggests a literal translation as “apple-rich,” referencing the abundance of apple trees that historically grew in the area. The other posits the term derives from the Armenian words Khor Dzor, meaning “deep gorge”—an apt description of the dramatic terrain, which features steep ravines and rock-cut passageways.
Old Khndzoresk is famed for its breathtaking canyon vistas, with hand-carved dwellings etched into the volcanic rock faces. This unique scenery has long served as a muse for Armenian painters, poets, and writers, drawn to the wild harmony of nature and human resilience embedded in the cliffs.
The earliest written mention of Khndzoresk dates back to the 13th century in the chronicles of historian Stepanos Orbelian. However, archaeological evidence confirms that the area had been inhabited for centuries prior. In its prime, Khndzoresk ranked among the largest villages not only in the Syunik region but in all of Eastern Armenia. During the 18th century, it became a bastion of the liberation movement led by David Bek. Between 1728 and 1730, the village’s fortress served as a strategic military base for national hero Mkhitar Sparapet. In 1735, the Catholicos of All Armenians, Abraham Kretatsi, visited the village and recorded a detailed account. According to his notes, the cave dwellings were used both as homes and places of refuge. Reaching some of the residences required climbing ropes affixed to thresholds high in the rock face. The structures were so interconnected that one roof often served as the courtyard for the dwelling above it, giving the entire village the appearance of a colossal multi-story building carved into stone.
By the 19th century, Khndzoresk had around 4,200 residents; by the early 20th century, that number had nearly doubled to 8,300. In 1913, the village boasted 27 shops, three paintworks, four active churches, and seven schools. Residents engaged in agriculture, livestock breeding, horticulture, and skilled crafts. Its artisans—carpenters, tailors, cobblers, painters, and carpet weavers—were renowned across the region. Old Khndzoresk was more than a village; it was a flourishing hub of cultural and economic life.
In the 1950s, Soviet authorities relocated the population to a newly built village atop the gorge, later named New Khndzoresk. The final cave-dweller moved out in 1958. Though they left their stone homes behind, many former residents remain emotionally tied to the village and occasionally return to guide visitors through its haunting ruins.
Many of the ancient homes were two or even three stories high, some featuring balconies overlooking the canyon. Built with perilous ingenuity, their construction demanded daily feats of climbing and balance from their inhabitants, who relied on woven ladders and ropes to reach different levels. In addition to living quarters, the caves contained storerooms and likely stables for animals.
Over the centuries, the village withstood numerous hardships—military raids, earthquakes, and natural erosion. Yet several structures remain intact to this day. Among the preserved sites are the 17th-century Fortress of Khndzoresk, the Church of Saint Hripsime, the Church of Saint Thaddeus, a bell tower, arched passageways, the ruins of a monastic church, and the remains of a historical literacy center.
In 2012, a 160-meter-long suspension bridge was erected, connecting Old Khndzoresk with its modern counterpart across the canyon. Soaring 63 meters above the chasm, the bridge is both a logistical link and a nerve-tingling attraction, thrilling adventurous visitors as it sways gently over the abyss.
Crossing the bridge leads into the heart of the cave village, where pathways meander between ancient dwellings. Visitors can peer into the dark interiors of these stone homes, some of which still contain tubs, niches, and even spaces that resemble modern conveniences—perhaps evidence of evolving domestic life. Climbing higher, you’ll encounter the spring, the bell tower, and the Church of Saint Hripsime, built in 1663. The sight of weathered ruins and sacred buildings amidst wildflowers and sweeping views evokes a feeling of traveling through time itself.
Some caves remain easily accessible at ground level, while others require special equipment due to their elevation and precarious entrances. Reaching the top of the canyon rewards you with a panoramic view of the entire settlement, a stunning finale to an unforgettable journey.
Your walk can end in New Khndzoresk, the village built to house the cave dwellers in the mid-20th century. If you’re lucky, you may encounter a local resident eager to share memories of life among the rocks. Many elders still recall the details of cave life and can tell you which family occupied which dwelling.
Old Khndzoresk is not a typical tourist site—it’s a gem for travelers who seek authenticity and hidden marvels rather than polished itineraries. If you value rare experiences and cultural depth, this destination belongs on your must-visit list. The drive from Yerevan takes around four hours. Although winters in the region are relatively mild, the best time to visit is from April to November, when the landscape bursts with life and the canyons are at their most welcoming.
