Mount Azhdaak

At the heart of Armenia’s Kotayk region, near Lake Sevan, rises the formidable volcano Azhdaak—at 3,597 m, the highest peak of the Gegham range and the country’s third tallest mountain after Aragats and Kaputjukh. Climbing it is a challenge well worth the effort, offering sweeping views of the Armenian plateau.

Known as the “Four‑headed Dragon,” Azhdaak draws its name from Armenian legend—an “azhdaak” is a dragon‑man residing in mountains, sky, and deep lakes. The creature amasses power over a millennium, ascending into the air, diving into lakes, or burrowing underground, creating a roaring, earth‑shaking rumble. Campers in Azhdaak’s crater often report hearing such mysterious groans from deep below.

Geologically young at about 12,000 years old—when mammoths still roamed—Azhdaak formed as basaltic lava flows built up four volcanic cones: the main peak Azhdaak and its subsidiary summits T’ar, Kamurch, and Temablur. Together, they form a striking “martian” landscape, their surfaces painted in vivid red volcanic tuff. Locals refer to it as “Kyzyl‑Dag” (Red Mountain) or “Karmir Sar” (Red Fortress). The cone towers 370 m above its base, and within its 500 m crater lies a deep, irregularly shaped crater lake (200 × 120 m), its clear waters—just 15 °C in summer—revealing a floor 90 m below. The lake supports a unique ecosystem of tiny red crustaceans.

Azhdaak’s dome and southern lava plateau stretch two kilometers across, covering roughly 8 km². At the summit sits a geodetic triangulation marker and a low stone wind shelter.

Southwest of the main peak lies the Kamurch cone—1 km long, rising to 3,500 m. Its name means “bridge,” and indeed it forms a natural connection between peaks. At its center sits a shallow crater (90 m across), now home to a small lake (~45 × 40 m) where introduced trout thrive.

To the northwest, about 800 m from the main summit, stands Temablur (“Hand‑hill”), a 3,307 m peak with a flat top. Its base spans 800 m, and its sheer southern face evokes an open palm.

Most expeditions begin in the village of Sevaberd. From there, you drive to Lake Akna, then ascend along the Gegham watershed to Azhdaak’s northern ridge. Descending its southern slopes reveals Lake Badi—a common overnight camping spot. Hikers then return to Sevaberd, move on to Garni, or drop down to Sevan.

The ascent passes broken volcanic scree—basalt, tuff, obsidian, perlite, and lava pumice—plus glacial moraine, massive stone ridges known as “chingils.” Yezidis consider these sacred; at night, some see mysterious vertical beams of light above them. Ancient petroglyphs—depicting hunts, celestial bodies, and vishaps (dragon‑serpents)—engraved on basalt blocks attest to Bronze Age worship and can still be found along the trails.

During summer retreats, a glacier on the lava terrace bleeds meltwater, while a smaller glacier on Kamurch fuels its crater lake. The intense red tuff, green alpine meadows, and white snowscape form a vivid, otherworldly palette—some liken it to China’s Zhangye Danxia landscapes.

From Azhdaak’s summit, the vista stretches across all of Lake Sevan, the Eranos ridge, the distant veil of snow on Ararat, the Khosrov forest reserve, and the expansive Vardenis Ridge folding into the Gegham range—a truly mesmerizing panorama.

An ancient tale with deep historical roots tells of the Armenian King Tigran II, who reigned in the first century BCE, and the Median king Azhdaak, a descendant of the legendary Titans.

One night, Azhdaak dreamed a terrifying dream: a fiery horseman from Armenia swept into his land, bringing destruction. Disturbed, he recognized the rider as King Tigran. Seeking counsel, he turned to his advisors, but none offered comfort or clarity. In desperation, Azhdaak prayed to the dragon-god Vishap, who instructed him to avert the threat not with war, but with love—by marrying the noble Tigranui, Tigran’s sister.

Tigran, after brief deliberation, agreed to the match. Tigranui, known for her grace and humility, became Azhdaak’s wife. Yet marriage did not ease the Median king’s fears. Bound by a past oath to Vishap—to spill the blood of the Aryan king—Azhdaak remained obsessed with destroying Tigran. He sought to turn Tigranui against her brother, pressing her with such force that she, torn between loyalty to her husband and love for her kin, could no longer bear the burden. Choosing death, she took her own life with a dagger. With her final breath, she told Azhdaak he was released from his vow—for Aryan blood flowed in her veins as well.

Stricken with grief, Tigran marched on Azhdaak with his army. The battle was long and brutal, but in the end, the Armenian king pierced Azhdaak with his spear. Wishing to lay his sister to rest near Mount Ararat, Tigran sought to bring her remains back to his homeland.

But the sons of Azhdaak and Tigranui—tall, titan-like men—stood in his way. They refused to let their mother be buried in foreign soil, declaring Ararat a land not her own. Enraged, Tigran drew his sword to strike them down. But at that moment, the goddess Anahit descended from the heavens and stayed his hand. She reminded him that while Tigranui was Aryan by blood, she was also the mother of Titans. Her final place belonged to her children’s land, and the right to bury her rested with them.

Tigran obeyed the divine command. He allowed the sons to bury their mother in Median earth. After the funeral, he placed Azhdaak’s eldest son on the throne and returned in silence to Armenia.