Sevanavank Monastery

Sevanavank is a historic monastic site that today includes two standing churches—Surp Arakelots and Surp Astvatsatsin—alongside the foundations of a third, Surp Harutyun. Scattered across the site are the ruins of a narthex, rows of khachkars and gravestones, the remains of a monastery oil press, and the restored cells of monks who once lived here. Perched high above the lake, the complex was once encircled by inner and outer walls, built as a defense against foreign incursion. Before water was diverted from Lake Sevan in the 20th century, the monastery stood on an island three kilometers from the shore. As the water receded, the island became a peninsula.

The churches are built from smooth-cut tuff and unpolished basalt—dark stones that lend the structures a somber hue. From a distance, they appear almost black. It is for this reason the monastery, and sometimes the lake itself, is referred to as the “Black Monastery”—from the Armenian sev (black) and vank (monastery).

In 301 AD, when the Kingdom of Greater Armenia adopted Christianity, the area surrounding Lake Sevan was known as Syunik. In 305, Saint Gregory the Illuminator, the first Catholicos of the Armenian Church, founded a hermitage and built the original Church of the Resurrection (Surp Harutyun) on the island, over the site of a former pagan temple. That church was later destroyed in the earthquake of 995.

In the 9th century, during the flourishing of Armenia under the Bagratid dynasty, a wave of monastic and ecclesiastical construction swept across the land. Sevan was no exception. Princess Mariam, daughter of King Ashot I Bagratuni and widow of the Syunik prince Vasak Gabur, vowed to build thirty churches in her husband’s memory. Among them were the renovations and new constructions at Sevanavank.

In 874, together with Archimandrite Mashtots Yegivardetsi (who would later become Catholicos of All Armenians), she oversaw the construction of two churches that still stand: Surp Arakelots (Holy Apostles) and Surp Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God). A monastic brotherhood was founded alongside Surp Arakelots, as well as a theological school. Over time, new cells and utility buildings appeared. A wooden-columned narthex was added to Surp Astvatsatsin, though only two of the original four carved capitals remain. The structure itself stood until 1930. In the 17th century, the Surp Mariam basilica was erected on the peninsula to honor the princess, but it, too, was demolished during the Soviet era.

A fortified wall with a watchtower and gate once encircled the monastic grounds. The foundation was hewn from rock and overlaid with massive basalt blocks. Though the wall eventually crumbled, it had once ringed the island entirely, a protective embrace against the uncertainties of the age.

Sevanavank is recognized as part of Armenia’s cultural heritage under UNESCO protection, drawing visitors from around the globe. Located just 60 kilometers from Yerevan, the site is reachable by car or bus in about an hour. Early mornings are the best time to visit—before the arrival of tour buses and the crowds they bring. At that hour, silence blankets the peninsula, and the view across the lake stretches untouched to the horizon.

Reaching the monastery, however, requires some effort. A steep stone staircase of 230 steps climbs from the base of the peninsula. Locals say that ascending the stairs three times equals a pilgrimage to Mecca.

Admission is free, but the surrounding market of trinkets, souvenirs, and artwork by local painters may tempt visitors to part with more than they intended. A restaurant adjacent to the monastery serves fish kebabs made from Sevan trout and whitefish, but prices are notoriously inflated. Along the path, expect persistent boys trying to sell you candles; better to wait and purchase them inside the church at a fairer price.

The monastery still holds regular services, and the acoustics within its darkened stone chambers make the Sevanavank choir’s hymns sound hauntingly resonant. Wedding ceremonies are often held here, followed by photoshoots along the rocky shore. Couples sometimes release doves into the air while making a wish. In the courtyard of Surp Arakelots, a collection of greenish andesite khachkars is displayed, including a carved depiction of Christ’s crucifixion set into the church wall.

The best time to visit is in early spring—March or April—before the influx of tourists. However, Sevan’s climate can be unforgiving. Locals call it “Armenian Siberia.” Winters plunge to -20°C, and even spring and summer are marked by relentless winds and sudden weather shifts. Dressing warmly is essential, and trekking shoes are highly recommended for the long climb to the complex.

One curious detail frequently noted by visitors: in certain corners of the monastery, the wind suddenly falls away, as though held back by some invisible hand. Step just a little to the side, and it returns, lashing against your face with force.

Though the monastery may not impress with grandeur, it is among Armenia’s most spiritually charged places. Nowhere else does one feel quite so fully the vastness of Lake Sevan and the deep-rooted presence of this sacred peninsula.