Located just 20 kilometers from Gabala, the village of Nidz is home to the Udi people, a unique Christian community believed to be descendants of one of the tribes that once populated Caucasian Albania. The Udis speak a nearly extinct language derived from the ancient Albanians, yet they also have a good command of Azerbaijani. Their language bears closer resemblance to that of the mountainous peoples of Dagestan than to Persian or Turkic tongues. Moreover, the Udis are devout Christians, with their most revered saint being Apostle Gergitz, also known as Yegishe, who is credited with baptizing Caucasian Albania at the site of the famous church in the village of Kish. Today, approximately 4,000 Udis reside in Nidz, accounting for nearly 80% of the village’s total population.
Scattered throughout the village, about a couple of kilometers apart, are three churches that hold the title of “Albanian” among the active places of worship. Near the entrance and main square, behind a somber warehouse that one must pass through, lies a cemetery dominated by the imposing Surb-Astvaçaçin Church, built in 1892.
At the heart of the village, nestled within a sprawling grove, stands the church that serves as the Udi cathedral: the Lower Church of Saint Eliseus, or Chotari Gergitz. Constructed in 1823 by the priest Astvatsatur Yotanyan, its appearance is strikingly archaic. The decorative patterns within the church appear to blend Armenian influences with unique local elements. Notably, the “Albanian cross” featured prominently has distinctive ends symbolizing the Sun and Moon, reminiscent of ancient Christian cults. In the churchyard, one can find graves of past clergy, with some dating back to the 17th century.
Adjacent to a long veranda, which seems to have once served as a school, stands the third church, Tsilin Gergitz (Upper Eliseus), built in 1860. Its portal is adorned with stunningly beautiful ornaments, and in the background, one can see the former school building.
The hospitable residents of Nidz warmly welcome visitors, offering guided tours and treating them to traditional dishes. They also invite guests to explore the local ethnographic museum, which beautifully recreates the atmosphere of an ancient Udi village. Surrounding the museum are agricultural buildings, grape presses, wine cellars, gardens, and summer kitchens. Inside the main house, a diverse array of exhibits showcases ancient clothing, household items, furniture, jewelry, and wax figures from days gone by. Like the Molokans, the Udis also produced wine, a theme reflected in the museum’s displays. Among the most impressive sights is a wine cellar hidden beneath the stump of a giant chinar tree.
There is also an ancient cemetery in the Nij village dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. The oldest graves are marked with river stones that bear no inscriptions. From around the 19th century, stones with texts and drawings have been preserved. All inscriptions are written in the Udi language.
The people here are very hospitable. They will gladly arrange a tour of the village for you, introducing you to all the local attractions and treating you to traditional dishes. Don’t forget to visit the local market, where you can find an abundance of fruits, vegetables, nuts, spices, and other gifts from this fertile land.