Gakh (Qax)

Lacated to the west of Sheki, Gakh is a sizable and charming village that serves as the administrative center of the Gakh district in Azerbaijan. At first glance, Gakh may appear as a typical Azerbaijani town, with its well-maintained main streets and a prominent monument dedicated to Heydar Aliyev, the country’s revered former president. Yet, beneath this familiarity lies a rich tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty that makes Gakh a fascinating destination for travelers.

Gakh boasts a small but notable historical center that invites visitors to stroll through its streets and absorb the local atmosphere.

One of the most striking historical landmarks near the village is a beautiful 19th-century Georgian brick church perched on a rocky outcrop by the roadside. Indeed, Gakh district shares a border with the historic Georgian region of Kakheti, located just about 20 kilometers away, divided by the Alazani River and the famed Alazani Valley—a lush area celebrated for its vineyards and scenic landscapes.

Within Gakh itself stands another active Georgian church, the Church of St. George (built in 1855), which continues to serve the local Georgian community. Thanks to the harmonious relations between Georgians and Azerbaijanis in the area, this church has been preserved without significant alterations. It features a typical Georgian architectural style, complete with a modest bell tower.

Adding to the spiritual heritage is the abandoned Georgian Church of the Exaltation of the Cross, constructed in 1888 atop the foundations of a 12th-century basilica. Locally known as “Small Alaverdi,” it draws its name in reference to the grand Alaverdi Monastery in Georgia’s Kakheti region, a major religious and architectural landmark.

Among the notable sights near Gakh is the historic “Ulu Körpü” bridge. This ancient structure serves as the sole connection to the village of Ilisu, once the capital of the Ilisu Sultanate, a semi-independent principality that held sway in the region during the 18th and 19th centuries. 

Though Gakh itself is relatively small, exploring it fully requires at least a full day, and ideally two or three. However, the true allure lies beyond the village, in the surrounding mountains and valleys. The region is a paradise for hikers and nature lovers, boasting numerous trails and roads that lead to remote highland villages where life has remained largely unchanged for over two centuries. Along these paths, visitors encounter ruins of ancient churches, cascading waterfalls, and breathtaking vistas.

Over its 1,500-year history, Gakh has been home to or ruled by a remarkable array of peoples: Scythians, Mongols, Turks, Georgians, and Russians, each leaving their mark on the land and culture. This rich mosaic of influences makes trekking through the mountains not only a physical adventure but a journey through layers of history. Backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts will find the terrain ideal for immersive exploration, offering solitude and discovery in equal measure.

No visit to Gakh would be complete without sampling its distinctive local cuisine. One signature dish is “sürxülü,” a specialty of northern Azerbaijan. This hearty meal consists of numerous small dumplings, similar in appearance to pelmeni without meat filling, served with finely chopped garlic and a tangy plum paste known as “turshi.” The Gakh version of “sürxülü” is a variant of Dagestani “hingal,” featuring meat on the bone encased in dough shaped like little ears. 

For those seeking to venture beyond Azerbaijan’s popular tourist routes, Gakh is a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered—a place where history lives on in stone and spirit, and where the mountains whisper tales of centuries gone by.