Ilisu

Nestled in the northwest of Azerbaijan, the small village of Ilisu, home to around 1,400 residents, lies along the Kurmukhchay River just 15 kilometers from the half-Georgian-speaking town of Gakh. While Azerbaijan boasts several remarkable villages—like the artisan haven of Lahij, the lofty mountain settlement of Khinalug, or the Talysh-influenced Masuleh across the border in Iran—Ilisu might seem the simplest and most low-lying of them all. Yet, beneath its modest appearance lies a fascinating history: this village was once the center of the independent Ilisu Sultanate, inhabited by the Tsakhur people who descended centuries ago from Dagestan to settle in this fertile valley.

Founded in the 16th century by Tsakhurs who crossed the mountains, the Ilisu Sultanate assimilated the last remnants of the Caucasian Albanians and brought Georgian and Azerbaijani peoples under its rule. Alongside the Jaro-Belokan alliance of Avar jamaats, the Sultanate skillfully balanced its position amid the great powers of Persia, the Ottoman Empire, and, from the 18th century onward, Russia. By the mid-17th century, the Sultanate had gained such influence that Ali Sultan-bek, its ruler, was honored with a prestigious title by the Ottoman Empire. During this period, the Ilisu Sultanate conducted successful military campaigns, both defensive and expansionist, protecting lands along the Kurmukhchay River stretching from the Sheki Khanate to Kakheti in Georgia. Remarkably, the Sultanate even captured Tbilisi at one point, exacting tribute from the city.

The last sultan, Daniyal-bek, witnessed his power steadily diminish as Tsarist officials chipped away at his authority year after year. In 1844, he pledged allegiance to Imam Shamil, the legendary leader of the Caucasian resistance, even strengthening their bond by marrying his daughter to Shamil’s son. However, just days later, General Grigory Schwartz seized the Kurmukh gorge, forcing Daniyal to flee to the mountains. There, he waged a guerrilla war for fifteen years. In 1852, the Russian army razed the Tsakhur villages of Kurmukh and deported the mountain people to the Alazani Valley. In 1859, Daniyal attempted a diversionary attack on Ilisu to distract the Russian forces from the siege of Gunib, but when this failed, he surrendered alongside Shamil. The former sultan was officially pardoned and sent to Istanbul, where he died in 1870. The Tsakhurs were allowed to return to their ancestral mountains in 1861. Today, the solitary Samug Tower standing below Ilisu along the Kurmukh gorge remains one of the few tangible reminders of the once-independent Sultanate.

Traveling from Baku, visitors first reach Sheki, then continue for another hour to Gakh, and from there ascend the mountain road that winds higher and higher to Ilisu. The village’s name comes from “Eli Su,” meaning “fifty waters,” a fitting homage to the many rivers, streams, and springs—both hot and cold—that surround it.

Ilisu was once a sovereign state, a powerful sultanate, so don’t be surprised by the complex urban plan of this remote mountain settlement or its architectural features, most notably the stone watchtowers. At first glance, these may seem unremarkable, but despite nearly 300 years having passed, many traces of Ilisu’s proud past remain. Hiring a local guide will enrich your visit, revealing with each step the character of a proud and impregnable, if now forgotten, mountain capital. Your journey will begin at the stunning Ulu-Körpü Bridge, which appears to grow naturally from the surrounding rocks as it spans the Kurmukhchay River. Though no longer open to traffic, this bridge was once the village’s sole connection to the lowlands. Around the village, silent forests cloak the ruins of defensive fortresses such as Jinligala and Shamilgala, standing vigil over the valley.

You will also be shown the “star attraction” of Ilisu—the Sumuggala Tower. This was one of the “family” towers, built adjacent to homes so families could defend themselves in times of danger. The sultans Sumu-khan and Magomet-khan, who once ruled from Sumuggala, could hardly have imagined their tower would outlast them by centuries. Other watchtowers endure throughout Ilisu, and each neighborhood—Senger, Budzhag, Gala, Badzhar, Bey-Tabun—has its own unique sights. On some old houses, wooden plaques bearing the names of craftsmen and dates of construction still survive, preserving the memory of past generations.

From earlier times, the 17th-century Ulu Mosque also remains, spared from the fire of imperial cannons. This three-nave basilica now stands alone in the lower part of the village. Though Ilisu expanded downhill after the 1860s, the old quarter remains the highest point. The road here follows the slope alongside a stream, while the Kurmukh gorge leads to the towering peaks of Akhvay (3,481 meters) and Khuray (3,187 meters). At their base lies Sarybash, once the center of the uppermost Karadulak jamaat on Kurmukh. Beyond these mountains lie Russia, the Samur Canyon, and the Tsakhur homeland.

Ilisu is also renowned for its culinary specialty, proudly offered to all visitors: surfyullyu, a unique pasta shaped like little boats, filled with dried meat and homemade sausage called djidjnagur. The flavor of the meat in this dish is distinctive and cannot be found beyond Ilisu and Gakh.

The forests surrounding the village fall within the Ilisu Nature Reserve, home to over three hundred protected plant species. Within these woods, visitors can find waterfalls, thermal springs, and even a geyser. Adventurous travelers can hike alpine meadows along specially laid eco-trails or explore higher mountain villages such as Lekit, where a 12th-century temple complex awaits. In the villages of Sarybash and Djalair, local women weave traditional socks called jorab, perfect souvenirs to take home.