Kakheti

Kakheti rightfully stands out as one of the most renowned regions in Georgia. It is not only the country’s premier wine-producing area but also home to the romantic city of Sighnaghi and a plethora of ancient churches and temples. Almost every corner of this land offers something intriguing and unique.

Famed for its breathtaking landscapes, sprawling vineyards, and historic towns that have preserved their charm, Kakheti exudes a sense of tranquility and unhurried pace—an ideal setting for a restorative getaway free from the chaos of everyday life. Often referred to as the Georgian Tuscany, this region is a sun-drenched paradise of wine and quaint atmospheric towns. Here, one can truly feel the warmth of Georgian hospitality, the leisurely lifestyle, and the art of savoring life to its fullest.

This expansive region, relatively large by Georgian standards, stretches to the east of Tbilisi. To the north, it shares a border with Russia, while to the south, it wedges into Azerbaijan. The most convenient way to reach Kakheti is from Tbilisi. A drive to the charming town of Sighnaghi takes about two hours, while the capital of the region, Telavi, is approximately three hours away. Kakheti boasts well-maintained roads without winding paths, making it easy to visit any attraction without hassle.

In the medieval era, the eastern part of modern Georgia was an independent kingdom known as Kakheti, with its capital in Telavi. Locally referred to as Kakheti, this kingdom thrived for around 500 years, occasionally uniting with neighboring territories. In the 18th century, it became part of the Georgian kingdom and subsequently joined the Russian Empire. By the 1990s, Kakheti, along with the mountainous province of Tusheti, was officially recognized as an eastern region of Georgia.

Kakheti is globally celebrated as a center of winemaking. Researchers have determined that wine production in Georgia dates back approximately 8,000 years. The region’s dry and warm climate is ideally suited for grape cultivation, with over half of the country’s total grape harvest originating from here. Notably, Kakheti is home to the traditional method of wine production in clay vessels called qvevri, which are buried neck-deep in the ground. Most Kakhetian wineries utilize this ancient technique, which has even been recognized as part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage.

The eastern part of Georgia is characterized by vast vineyards and picturesque landscapes, interspersed with small towns rich in history and ancient temples.

Regarded as the capital of Kakheti, Telavi was once the residence of the Georgian king Heraclius II in the 17th century. Today, it is a charming town that can be explored in a day. The name of the city derives from the Georgian word “tela,” meaning “elm.” It is believed that the area was once abundant with elms, though they are no longer found lining the streets of Telavi. The town’s main attraction is the Batonis Tsikhe fortress, dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. This formidable stone citadel, complete with round towers, was constructed to protect the residence of the Kakhetian king. Interestingly, a beautifully preserved palace in Eastern style is open for visitors. Inside, you can explore reconstructed royal chambers and the throne room. The grounds also feature a historical museum showcasing archaeological finds, an impressive collection of ancient weaponry, and an art gallery. Just a few steps away from the Telavi fortress, don’t miss the opportunity to take a photo with the magnificent 900-year-old plane tree, said to have been growing long before the birth of Queen Tamar.

Often referred to as the City of Love, Signagi owes its nickname to the beautiful legend of artist Niko Pirosmani, who was desperately in love with the French actress Margarita de Sevres. In a grand gesture to win her heart, he spent all his savings on flowers and scattered them across the central square of Signagi in front of his beloved’s hotel. Unfortunately, Margarita turned him down. However, the story of the artist’s unrequited love was immortalized in the famous song “A Million Scarlet Roses” by Alla Pugacheva. The local registry office further enhances the city’s reputation as a romantic destination, allowing even foreigners to marry in just one day.

The cozy, winding streets, cobblestone pavements, and charming houses with open terraces and tiled roofs all contribute to a romantic atmosphere. A visit to the highest point in the city, the 18th-century Signagi Fortress, is a must. Here, you can explore the remnants of the walls and watchtowers. A scenic walking path runs along the four-kilometer stone wall, offering breathtaking views of the Alazani Valley.

Just outside the city, the Bodbe Monastery, founded in the 6th century on the site where St. Nino, the main patroness of Georgia, met her end, is worth a visit. Most of the existing structures, heavily renovated, date back to the 19th century. The Cathedral of St. George features vibrant frescoes depicting biblical scenes and houses the relics of St. Nino. The main attraction of the complex is a spring believed to possess miraculous properties.

Nestled in the northeastern part of the Alazani Valley, Kvareli is a small town worth visiting for its notable attractions. The most popular site is the “Kinzmarauli” winery, a vast corporation established during the Soviet era, now recognized as one of the largest wine producers in Kakheti. Visitors can learn about the winemaking process, tour the modern facilities and cellars, and participate in tastings.

Adjacent to the winery is another intriguing landmark: the Kvareli Fortress, dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, which today surprisingly features a football field within its walls, creating a striking visual contrast.

One of Kvareli’s most unique attractions is the wine cellar tunnel carved into the mountain. Originally constructed as a bomb shelter, it was later converted into a wine cellar. Today, it is a popular tourist spot where visitors can discover the region’s winemaking traditions and sample local wines.

Considered one of the oldest in Kakheti, Ikalto Monastery was established near modern-day Telavi in the 6th century. In ancient times, it served as a spiritual and educational center. During the Middle Ages, the academy here educated notable figures, including the famous Georgian poet Shota Rustaveli. Students studied theology, rhetoric, and astronomy while also cultivating grapes and producing wine, as evidenced by the preserved wine presses and storage facilities.

The monastery grounds still feature several churches, including the Church of the Descent of the Holy Spirit, characterized by its tall, intricately carved drum. Built from pumice in the 6th century, it underwent several renovations in brick before taking its modern form in the 19th century. Nearby stands a modest building with a crumbling exterior staircase leading to the second floor; this is believed to be the oldest church in the complex, constructed around the same time as the monastery’s founding.

Situated on the Alavan Plain, Alaverdi Monastery traces its origins back to the 6th century. It is believed to have been founded by one of the Assyrian fathers, who were instrumental in establishing monasticism in Georgia. Initially a simple hermitage, it transformed in the 11th century under the orders of King Kvirike III of Kakheti into a grand cathedral that still stands today. Although it has been damaged by earthquakes and invasions, it has been restored multiple times. Notably, the lower part of the church is built from stone, while the upper section is made of brick, reflecting the restoration efforts of the 18th century.

Alaverdi Monastery is home to one of the oldest wineries in Georgia, with a history dating back to the 6th century. The local monks have upheld winemaking traditions for over 1,500 years. The wine produced here, crafted using ancient recipes and techniques, continues to be used in religious ceremonies, such as communion, giving it a profound spiritual significance.

Today, the Alaverdi Cathedral is considered one of the tallest in Georgia, standing at 50 meters. The church retains its historical form and features several intricate decorations on its facade. Inside, visitors can admire frescoes depicting the Assyrian fathers and inscriptions from the 15th century written in ancient Georgian script.

From the 15th to the 17th century, the thriving city of Gremi served as the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti until it was nearly destroyed by Iranian forces. Today, the remnants of this former capital are embodied in the majestic castle perched on a steep cliff. This site now functions as an active monastery, featuring the former royal palace and various utility buildings enclosed by sturdy walls.

The monastery, commonly referred to as the castle, was established in the 16th century. The main structure on the grounds is the Archangel Cathedral, constructed from red brick. The façades showcase intricate carved decorations, while inside, you can find frescoes dating back to 1577. Unfortunately, many of the saints depicted have had their faces defaced by the Iranian invaders.

The tall building with a tower served as the royal residence. Visitors can ascend the tower for panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Along the way, you can peek into several museum halls displaying portraits of Georgian kings, ancient tools, and even a recreated medieval royal toilet in a small nook. For those eager to see more exhibits, the nearby Gremi Historical Museum offers a wealth of artifacts, including tools, jewelry, medieval weaponry, and ceramics unearthed during archaeological excavations.

One of the most popular attractions in Kakheti, the David Gareja Monastery complex lies near the border with Azerbaijan. In the 6th century, St. David (one of the Assyrian fathers) settled in one of the caves of the Gareja Desert along with his disciple, thus founding the monastery. After David’s death, his followers began to carve out caves in the sandstone cliffs, establishing 17 additional monasteries, some of which are now located in Azerbaijan.

The David Gareja Monastery is the oldest and most renowned part of this complex. Unlike typical Georgian Orthodox monasteries, it features a cozy courtyard behind a stone wall, with cells carved into the rock on one side and a fortress-like stone building with terraces seemingly embedded in the hillside on the other. Within this structure, two churches can be found, one of which houses the relics of St. David. Visitors can explore the churches, wander through the fortress, and navigate the narrow cave corridors inside.

A trip to the upper platform of the monastery is a must; from here, you can capture stunning photographs against the backdrop of the colorful, layered hills that resemble slices of bacon. This unusual coloration results from various soil layers, including yellow sandstone, red clay, and white marine salt.

Kakheti is renowned for its vineyards and vast steppes, but few are aware that it also encompasses the picturesque mountains of Tusheti. This incredibly beautiful region boasts majestic peaks, alpine meadows, and settlements that, until the end of the 20th century, could only be accessed on foot or by helicopter.

In 2003, Tusheti National Park was established to protect the unique nature and endangered wildlife of the area. The park encompasses not only trekking trails through forests and mountains but also inhabited and abandoned villages, along with several ancient monuments. Among these are medieval defensive towers where the Tushetians lived with their families during enemy raids.

Today, the national park features ten hiking and trekking routes of varying difficulty levels. Most of these trails begin at the tourist center in the village of Omalo. The Keseo-Kue trail is the most popular, taking approximately eight hours to complete, offering breathtaking views of Tushetian towers and, if you’re lucky, a chance to spot bezoar goats.

The Kakheti region is home to hundreds of wineries, ranging from large factories producing world-renowned varieties to small family-run establishments offering unique wines. In Kakheti, you can confidently choose any winery or cellar, as each maintains high standards. Here are a few top-rated locations that are sure to impress:

• Khareba Winery: One of the largest wine production enterprises in Georgia. The company operates several vineyards, cellars, and shops throughout the country. In Kakheti, there is a unique wine storage facility located within a tunnel carved into the rock. This tunnel system, stretching over seven kilometers, was created in the 1960s specifically for the winery. Today, guided tours of the cellar are offered, along with tastings and masterclasses on preparing khinkali or khachapuri.

• Shumi Winery: Situated in the village of Tsinandali, this large enterprise produces three million bottles of wine annually. The complex not only allows visitors to observe grape cultivation and winemaking but also features a local museum with an exhibition of ancient tools used for wine storage and production.

Many wineries also offer cozy guesthouses and even five-star hotels set in historic estates. Autumn is particularly delightful for a stay, as you can leisurely stroll through the vineyards and witness the grape harvest firsthand. For those seeking a more intimate experience, we recommend exploring the smaller family-owned wineries. These establishments typically have fewer visitors, and tours and tastings are often conducted personally by the owners, ensuring a warm and welcoming atmosphere.