Ninotsminda Cathedral is an ancient Georgian church located in Kakheti, notable for its historical significance and architectural heritage. Unfortunately, much of the structure collapsed in the mid-19th century, yet it remains one of the earliest examples of Georgian ecclesiastical architecture, ranking among the first three such structures, and is chronologically the second tetraconch, a direct precursor to the famous Jvari Monastery.
Construction of the cathedral began in 575 AD, during a period when the last Assyrian fathers were passing away. Just prior to this, the first tetraconch church, known as Gavazi, was erected in Kakheti. Following this initial experiment, the Ninotsminda Cathedral was constructed, paving the way for the renowned Jvari Monastery, which would later emerge from this architectural lineage.
In the 16th century, the church was adorned with frescoes. However, historical accounts suggest that in 1750, Bishop Savva Tusishvili made alterations to the dome that ultimately led to its collapse during an earthquake in 1824. The walls of the cathedral managed to stand for a few more years before succumbing in 1848. Following this collapse, a simple brick church was added to the western wall of the temple.
Today, the Ninotsminda Cathedral holds immense significance in the evolution of Georgian architecture, as it predates the Jvari Monastery in Mtskheta and served as a model for the tetraconch form that would become so prominent in later constructions. Currently, only the eastern apse and a section of the western wall remain standing. The ruined apse is adorned with 16th-century frescoes depicting the Hodegetria, although these have been severely vandalized, bearing bullet holes inflicted by Dagestani bandits in the 18th and 19th centuries. The outlines of the foundations indicate that the church originally featured an octagonal center surrounded by corner niches. Historical records reveal that restoration efforts took place in the 10th and 11th centuries, as well as in 1671 and 1774. However, the cathedral ultimately collapsed during earthquakes in 1824 and 1848 and was never reconstructed.
Within the same complex stands a large brick belltower, dating back to the reign of King Levan of Kakheti (1520-1574). The lower three stories of the belltower served as living quarters, each floor equipped with a fireplace. The staggered arrangement of bricks on the exterior facade creates geometric patterns, reflecting the cultural influence of Safavid Persia, which is also evident in the pointed arch above the entrance.
The Ninotsminda complex is encircled by fortifications that include corner towers and a crenelated curtain wall, dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. The fortified entrance gate features protruding towers with beehive machicolations.
Today, the cathedral is located within the grounds of an active women’s monastery dedicated to Saint Nina. The area is clean and well-maintained, with blooming flowers and a neatly trimmed lawn surrounding the church itself. The monastery is enclosed by a wall with towers, creating a serene atmosphere.
While the frescoes within the church are late, dating back to the 16th century, only a severely damaged depiction of the Virgin Mary remains in the altar apse, alongside fragments of angelic images and a better-preserved section above the altar. In addition to the frescoes, some ornamental motifs on the facade and a few inscriptions in Asomtavruli script have survived. The construction materials suggest that the church underwent several renovations or restorations over the years, with sections made from gray sandstone, shell limestone, and brick. The remnants of the walls reveal a structure built from large pebbles and faced with hewn stone.
Beyond the cathedral itself, the surrounding area features various structures, including the fortified wall with towers and the belltower, which was constructed in the 16th century and appears quite primitive in design. Nearby is the bishop’s palace, built between 1774 and 1777, which is now part of the monastery complex and can only be accessed with permission.
The entire complex is nestled within the tranquil green village of Ninotsminda.
The cathedral is located in the Kakhetian village of Ninotsminda, which is often confused with the district center of the same name in the Ninotsminda region. However, these are two distinct locations. This small village lies at the foothills of the Gombori Range, effectively serving as a suburb of Sagarejo. You can easily reach Ninotsminda by taking a minibus from Tbilisi’s Samgori metro station to Sagarejo. The church is not visible from the main road, but there is a barely noticeable sign at the turnoff. From there, it’s just a short walk of a couple of hundred meters to reach your destination.