Velistsikhe

Veliscikhe is a quaint village located just 11 kilometers from Gurjaani, en route to Telavi, at an elevation of 380 meters above sea level. The village is traversed by the Gurjaani-Telavi road, which also marks the beginning of the route to Kvareli. Veliscikhe is situated in a captivating part of Kakheti, boasting three churches, two restaurants, and the renowned wine museum “Numisi.” In times past, the village even had its own theater.

Dating back to approximately the 5th or 6th century, Veliscikhe is an ancient settlement. The name “Veliscikhe” translates from Georgian as “fortress on the plain,” suggesting that fortifications once existed here. Although these structures have not survived, it is believed that the ancient settlement was located near the Church of St. George. The chronicle “The Life of Vakhtang Gorgasali” mentions the Persian invasion in the late 5th century, stating, “King Khosrow came and destroyed the city of Kambechovani, the fortress of Cheremi, and Veliscikhe.” This indicates that during that era, Veliscikhe was one of the significant towns in the Alazani Valley.

Beyond this historical reference, little is known about Veliscikhe until it reappeared in the historical record in 1812, during the Kakhetian uprising. It was in this village that the people of Kakheti made their final stand against the advancing Russian army toward Telavi.

Today, Veliscikhe is a village in the Alazani Valley with a population of around 6,000, situated along the banks of the Cheremishevi River, seamlessly blending with the neighboring villages of Mukuzani and Akhasheni. While it retains its village charm, Veliscikhe has taken its first steps toward urbanization. During the Soviet era, a grand theater building was constructed, which now stands on the central square. Although the square has become somewhat neglected, it once resembled a bustling town center.

The main attraction of Veliscikhe today is the “Numisi” wine museum.

“Wine Cellar Numisi” is an intriguing project that makes Veliscikhe a must-visit destination. This large stone building, prominently located on the village’s main street, is easily identifiable by its signage. Inside, visitors will find a hall filled with various household items, including clothing, jugs, a wine press, and an array of other artifacts. Beyond this hall lies the actual marani, or wine cellar, where traditional qvevri are buried. Between the hall and the marani, there is a descent into a cool, dark cellar that once served as a storage place for meat and poultry, maintaining a steady temperature of 14 degrees Celsius.

The museum also features a well-appointed kitchen area for tastings. The wines offered for tasting include local varieties such as Saperavi and Rkatsiteli, which, surprisingly, are quite excellent. Additionally, visitors can arrange a full meal featuring meat and wine at the museum. Another highlight of the village is the restaurant “Veranda Veliscikhe”.

In addition to these modern establishments, Veliscikhe is home to three churches of varying ages, the most notable being the Church of St. George. This single-nave basilica features an external gallery, which, though partially ruined, remains on the northern side, giving the basilica an appearance reminiscent of a two-nave structure. The church dates back to the 5th century. Inside, the space is currently empty, with the altar wall in ruins and no icons or frescoes remaining.

Alongside this ancient church, there are two later churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary. One of these was built in the 12th century, retaining only its lower section from that period, while the upper part has been completely reconstructed in later times. Notably, a tall brick bell tower of rather unusual design was erected on the site of the original bell tower, now serving as a distinctive landmark for the village.