One of the most significant landmarks in Georgia lies not far from Tbilisi, along the Georgian-Azerbaijani border. The David-Gareji Monastery complex encompasses a vast territory featuring a network of cave monasteries. Historically, a portion of this complex is located in Azerbaijan, adding to its unique cross-border significance.
Although it is often referred to as the David-Gareji Monastery, the site actually comprises around 20 monasteries and over 100 caves that once housed monastic cells. At the heart of this complex lies the main sanctuary of David-Gareji—the Lavra of Saint David. The Gareji Desert is home to four primary complexes: the David-Gareji Monastery, the monasteries of Tetri-Udabno and Natlisi-Mtsubeli, as well as the Dodo-Rka caves. Additionally, the monasteries of Bertubani and Sabereebi are frequently visited by pilgrims and tourists alike.
From a historical perspective, one of the most valuable features of the David-Gareji complex is the numerous inscriptions found on the walls of the monasteries in the Gareji Desert. These inscriptions can be seen in Georgian, Armenian, Arabic, and Greek, with over 40 examples present within the David-Gareji complex alone. Of particular interest are the lines accompanying the frescoes in the church of Sabereebi.
The Gareji monasteries are located relatively close to Tbilisi, making them a top recommendation in Western travel guides. In Georgia, these sites are held in high esteem, and pilgrimage to Gareji was once considered equivalent to pilgrimage to Jerusalem. Visiting this area is truly worthwhile, not just for the monasteries themselves, but for the overall atmosphere of the Gareji Desert.
The Gareji Monastery is one of those established by Assyrian fathers in the 6th century. Saint David arrived in Iberia alongside John of Zedazeni and settled on Mount Zedazeni, where he founded the first monastery in Georgia. When the monks dispersed from the mountain, David chose to move to Tbilisi, settling on Mount Mtatsminda near the city, where his cave and temple still exist today. However, a conflict soon arose with the Zoroastrians of Tbilisi, prompting David to relocate to a more desolate area. He ventured farther than the other twelve monks in terms of asceticism, ultimately settling in the Gareji Desert, the harshest living environment in all of Georgia.
Along with his disciple Lucian, he took refuge in a cave, subsisting on roots and the milk of wild deer. According to the life of Saint David, a dragon was discovered near the cave, which David expelled. The path taken by the dragon is said to be visible even today from the ridge above David’s cave. In all depictions, David is shown with this fleeing dragon. While the dragon story is often interpreted as mythology, it could simply be an exaggeration; it is known that the Gareji Desert is home to the Giant Viper, also known as the Gurtzha. This creature can grow up to two meters long, and there is a faint possibility that a species of giant viper existed in the past, now extinct. One such species is mentioned by Titus Livius in his history of Rome. The Gareji dragon could very well be a historical reference to this viper.
Living in the arid desert, the saint subsisted solely on roots and the milk of wild deer. As news of David’s righteous life spread throughout Georgia, monks began to flock to the area, continuing the work of the saint by carving numerous cells into the rock face surrounding David’s cave.
Saint Dodo founded the Dodo-Rka cave complex, and approximately ten kilometers from David’s cave, the Natlisi-Mtsubeli Monastery (dedicated to John the Baptist) emerged. About a third or half of all existing caves were excavated in the 6th century. Later, the arrival of Arabs brought construction to a halt, but in the 9th century, Kakheti emerged from Arab subjugation, leading to the construction of several more caves, partly initiated by Saint Hilarion the Georgian.
Despite the multitude of monasteries, they shared a unifying center—the Gareji Lavra. Typically, all the monks would gather there during Easter.
Over the years, the monastery suffered from multiple enemy invasions. On Easter in 1616, Shah Abbas exterminated all the monks present, and on June 18, 1851, the monastery was looted by the Lezgins (from Dagestan), resulting in the deaths of the last five monks.
The revival of the complex began amid the territorial conflict between Georgia and Azerbaijan, which remains unresolved to this day. The Georgian government proposed exchanging these lands for others to ensure that the sacred territories would fully belong to Georgia. However, Azerbaijan did not agree to such a deal. The complex of caves located in this country is called the “Keshikchidagh” reserve.
In the twilight of his years, Saint David undertook a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. However, he dared not set foot on the Holy Land itself; instead, he found three stones near the city walls. He resolved to bring them back to Gareji to sanctify the land. When the temple priests learned of his intentions, they sought to confiscate the stones from him. Messengers were dispatched to intercept David, and while they managed to seize two of the stones, he successfully hid one, which was ultimately brought to Gareji.
Saint David believed that this fragment of the Holy Land had completely transformed the surrounding area, bestowing upon it the grace of God. Today, pilgrims hold the belief that visiting the David-Gareji Monastery is akin to making a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. Although the legendary stone is no longer housed in Gareji—having been transferred to Tbilisi—there is a tradition that encourages visitors to find a small stone during their visit and take it as a keepsake. They believe that doing so will shield them from misfortunes and help alleviate serious illnesses.
Currently, the complex encompasses around twelve temple ensembles, some of which are remarkably well-preserved, while others have been nearly ravaged by time.
Visiting all the monasteries in a single day is impossible. This is not only due to the division created by the state border but also because of the considerable distances between the complexes. Most tourists explore the desert attractions via the “small circle” route (taking between 2 to 4 hours), which includes the David-Gareji Monastery and the Tetri-Udabno complex. To reach Tetri-Udabno, one must walk south for about a kilometer. Here, in addition to the temple, you will encounter unique caves adorned with partially preserved frescoes.
On the Georgian side, there are two additional complexes—Natlisi-Mtsubeli and Sabereebi. To visit the former, one must obtain permission for entry, as it is an active monastery located just a few kilometers from the Lavra of Saint David. Access requires a four-wheel drive vehicle, as there are no proper roads leading to it. The main attractions of Natlisi-Mtsubeli include a cave complex, a stone tower, and the cave temple of John the Baptist. The road to Sabereebi is unpaved, and visitors must travel nearly 15 kilometers east from the village of Udabno.
On the Azerbaijani side, the largest complex is Bertubani. Unfortunately, due to a diplomatic conflict in 2019, access to the Azerbaijani part of the Gareji complex has been closed.
The distance from Tbilisi to the David-Gareji Monastery is nearly 100 kilometers. Most tourists travel here by car or as part of an excursion tour. From early spring to mid-October, buses run from the capital to the sanctuary, waiting for three hours before returning. The bus departs daily from Freedom Square on Pushkin Street at 11:00 AM.
For a more budget-friendly option, one can travel to Sagarejo and then take a taxi. Marshrutkas (minibuses) depart from Tbilisi (from Samgori) every 20-30 minutes, starting at 8:00 AM and continuing until 8:00 PM. Once in Sagarejo, taxis are readily available, and drivers are quite accommodating.
Visiting all the monasteries in a single day is impossible. This is not only due to the division created by the state border but also because of the considerable distances between the complexes. Most tourists explore the desert attractions via the “small circle” route (taking between 2 to 4 hours), which includes the David-Gareji Monastery and the Tetri-Udabno complex. To reach Tetri-Udabno, one must walk south for about a kilometer. Here, in addition to the temple, you will encounter unique caves adorned with partially preserved frescoes.
On the Georgian side, there are two additional complexes—Natlisi-Mtsubeli and Sabereebi. To visit the former, one must obtain permission for entry, as it is an active monastery located just a few kilometers from the Lavra of Saint David. Access requires a four-wheel drive vehicle, as there are no proper roads leading to it. The main attractions of Natlisi-Mtsubeli include a cave complex, a stone tower, and the cave temple of John the Baptist. The road to Sabereebi is unpaved, and visitors must travel nearly 15 kilometers east from the village of Udabno.
On the Azerbaijani side, the largest complex is Bertubani. Unfortunately, due to a diplomatic conflict in 2019, access to the Azerbaijani part of the Gareji complex has been closed.
The distance from Tbilisi to the David-Gareji Monastery is nearly 100 kilometers. Most tourists travel here by car or as part of an excursion tour. From early spring to mid-October, buses run from the capital to the sanctuary, waiting for three hours before returning. The bus departs daily from Freedom Square on Pushkin Street at 11:00 AM.
For a more budget-friendly option, one can travel to Sagarejo and then take a taxi. Marshrutkas (minibuses) depart from Tbilisi (from Samgori) every 20-30 minutes, starting at 8:00 AM and continuing until 8:00 PM. Once in Sagarejo, taxis are readily available, and drivers are quite accommodating.
It is important to remember that you are fortunate to be visiting the desert, where the weather can be quite capricious and changeable. In the summer months (from late June to late August), temperatures can soar to +40°C. However, exploring the caves offers a much cooler experience. The ideal time for tourists is during April and May, when the mountains begin to be cloaked in lush vegetation, the air is filled with ozone, and stunning poppies add vibrant colors to the breathtaking landscapes. Autumn also offers its own charm in Gareji, as the steppe transforms, with yellow, purple, and brown grasses turning the fields into a kaleidoscope of rich hues.
The David Gareji Monastery complex is more than just caves and temples; it is a truly mystical place where one can undergo a profound spiritual transformation. Once you have visited, you will feel an irresistible pull to return, as if drawn by a magnet. Don’t miss the unique opportunity to embark on a pilgrimage to lands that are equated with Jerusalem. There are still many secrets here, carefully preserved by the multifaceted culture of Georgia!