The Gareji Desert is home to approximately nine complexes, each varying in their state of preservation. Exploring all of them can take several days, but four main groups stand out:
Additionally, there is the Bertubani complex, situated about six kilometers from David’s Lavra, but it lies on the Azerbaijani side of the border.
In addition to the aforementioned monasteries, Gareji is home to numerous temple complexes and cave cells. If you have the time, be sure to visit Tetri Senakebi, Pir Ukugmri, Bertubani, and Veran Gareja. These sites stretch for many kilometers along the border with Azerbaijan.
While it can be challenging to visit all the caves, a popular route known as the “small circle” is typically favored by tourists. This route includes David’s Lavra and the Tetri-Udabno Monastery. You can complete this loop in about two hours, or three if you prefer to take your time.
Vehicles usually park in a lot in front of the Lavra. Below, you will find several buildings—these are remnants of Soviet construction from the 1970s, dating back to the era of Medea Mizvrishvili. Just beyond the parking area is a temple shop that sells icons, postcards, and one particularly noteworthy item: the monastery’s wine made from Khvanchkara Saperavi grapes. This dry red wine is excellent and serves as a benchmark for quality Saperavi. It costs 10 lari, which is a bargain compared to prices in Tbilisi.
Beyond the shop lies the Lavra itself, and if you take an immediate right onto the trail, you’ll find the path leading up to the ridge.
It makes sense to begin your visit at the Lavra, as it is the most architecturally stunning site. Here, you can admire towers, living quarters, small caves, and the famous rock with its caves that has circulated widely on the internet. Part of the complex functions as an active monastery, so access is restricted. In the lower courtyard, you’ll discover a small Transfiguration Church. Within this church, to the right of the altar, lies the grave of Saint David. Once, the stone that he brought from Jerusalem was kept here, but it has since been moved to Tbilisi, to the Patriarchate.
The remainder of the route consists of a long trail that loops around the mountain. It begins just behind the shop, ascending the slope and offering excellent photo opportunities of the Lavra. After walking approximately 600 meters up the trail, you will reach the ridge’s summit, where a breathtaking view of the Azerbaijani plain unfolds before you. The border runs roughly along the top of this ridge.
To your right, you will find a small church, while to the left, a path stretches south for 850 meters leading to another church. Near this second church is the Tetri-Udabno Monastery, carved into the rock beneath the trail, facing Azerbaijan. There are descents from the trail to reach it more easily. It’s simpler to continue to the distant church and then descend the path behind it. At the bottom, another trail leads past the caves.
These caves vary in size—some are quite small, while others are larger and adorned with frescoes. Although the frescoes are in poor condition, they are still captivating. Many faces were scratched off by wandering Muslims, and during the Soviet era, some tourists or military personnel from a nearby base carved their names into the remaining artwork.
The church situated above the caves serves as an important landmark. From there, not only does the descent to the caves begin, but also the return path down to the Lavra.
Many people lack the strength and willpower to climb to the ridge’s peak, which is a great pity. By not making the ascent, they miss out on a significant portion of the visual experience that awaits them.