Lagich (Lahij)

Situated high in the mountains, Lagich is a captivating destination that offers a glimpse into the rich tapestry of medieval Azerbaijani craftsmanship. This ancient village, one of the oldest in Azerbaijan, stands in stark contrast to the modern centers of wealth and prosperity, representing a different side of the country—historical, culturally rooted, and almost untouched by the modern world. Lagich is suspended in time, reflecting various epochs of the past, and remains unspoiled by the trappings of mass tourism.

Reaching Lagich is an adventure in itself, as the road was only constructed about 50 years ago. Prior to that, access was limited to rugged mountain trails, often fraught with danger from hungry wolves. As you make your way to the village, be sure to cross the narrow suspension bridge that stretches high above the gorge, connecting Lagich to another mountain settlement.

Lagich is home to the Tats, an ethnic group whose origins are debated—some say they are descendants of Persians, while others suggest they are Caucasian Jews. Regardless, the Tats communicate in their own dialect of Persian, referring to themselves as “Lohidji,” named after their village. The streets of Lagich resemble those of a medieval European town, with cobblestone paths, ancient homes adorned with picturesque wooden balconies, and buildings constructed from the same stone that dominates the landscape.

From its inception, Lagich has retained much of its original charm: stone streets, stone houses, stone bridges, and an ancient, unique sewage system—all crafted from the abundant stone found in the gorge. The villagers built everything from stone, using clay and wooden beams for support.

While medieval European towns often struggled with waste flowing through the streets, Lagich has boasted a sophisticated sewage and water supply system for over a thousand years. Remarkably, beneath the cobblestones of the main street lies a three-tiered collector: the upper two levels supply drinking water, while the lower level channels away wastewater. A local saying humorously notes,

“Where the sewage begins and where it ends—nobody knows! How it works—also a mystery. Yet it has functioned perfectly for over three thousand years! How can this be? A riddle that scholars have sought to unravel but have failed to decipher.”

The streets of Lagich are narrow, reminiscent of Italian alleyways, paved with stones that feature a special groove to drain rainwater, preventing flooding and damage to the homes. Most houses are two stories tall: the ground floor typically houses a workshop or store, a barn, storage area, and kitchen, while the upper floor serves as living quarters.

Historically, due to a lack of agricultural land, the locals engaged in various crafts, selling their wares in the lowlands. The main street of Lagich is a bustling quarter of artisans. In ancient times, Lagich was known as the “City of Forty Crafts,” although some historians have identified up to 100 different trades flourishing in this small village, which has a population of just under a thousand.

Lagich was once the epicenter of craftsmanship, famous for its intricately hand-decorated copperware, metalwork, weaponry, leather goods, and carpets. The leather produced here, particularly the saffiano leather, was considered the finest in the Caucasus. The residents of Lagich are indeed skilled artisans, with a rich tradition of copper, pottery, leather, and weapon crafting.

Many descendants of ancient craftsmen continue to work today, catering not to tourists but to genuine demand in distant regions. The locals proudly assert that some workshops in Lagich have been operating for several centuries.

It is remarkable that Lagich has preserved its artisans and their skills, especially considering that in many parts of the world, traditional craftsmanship declined in the 19th and 20th centuries with the rise of industrial production and the influx of mass-produced goods. In Lagich, however, the community remains steadfastly traditional, favoring copper samovars over plastic electric kettles.

Today, the workshops and shops are concentrated along the central street. Visitors can easily wander from one to another, admiring the craftsmanship of sabers, daggers, samovars, tablecloths, and more, while observing local artisans at work. The sounds of hammers, buzzing machines, and clanging metal fill the air, creating a lively atmosphere.

Souvenirs from Lagich are unique and authentic—there are no Chinese trinkets here, only locally made items that cannot be found in any other village. Naturally, everything is for sale, and it’s rare for anyone to leave Lagich without making a purchase. The artisans are welcoming, eager to share their stories and allow visitors to photograph the production process.

While Lagich attracts mostly locals and a few foreign visitors—thanks to its remote location and challenging mountain roads—there are few vehicles in the village itself. This is hardly surprising, as navigating the narrow alleys is best done in the traditional way—on horseback. 

A leisurely stroll through Lagich takes about an hour and a half, allowing ample time to explore all the main streets, peek into workshops and shops, and perhaps visit the local mosque. 

One can also find an authentic local hammam (bathhouse) where visitors can indulge in a relaxing steam bath, much to the delight of the locals.

As you wander through the winding streets, you’ll be captivated by the vibrant atmosphere and the sense of community that permeates Lagich. The artisans are not just craftsmen; they are the keepers of a legacy that has been passed down through generations. The village embodies a way of life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries.