Shemakha

Located 120 kilometers from Baku on the road to Ganja, Shemakha is a charming town with a population of just 36,000 residents. Known as the historical center of Shirvan, this ancient Azerbaijani city has a rich history, having served as the capital twice throughout its storied past. Founded in the 5th century BC, Shemakha is celebrated as one of the most beautiful cities in the East. Situated at an elevation of 800 meters above sea level in the southern part of the Greater Caucasus, it rests in a picturesque basin surrounded by the foothills of the mountains, along the banks of the Pirsagat River.

Despite the ravages of conquerors and earthquakes that have left little of the ancient city intact, several relics have survived the test of time. Among the most notable are the Gülistan Fortress, built in the 11th-12th centuries to defend the city’s borders, and the “Yeddi-Gumbaz” (Seven Domes) mausoleum, which houses numerous tombs of Shemakha’s rulers. The Juma Mosque, a grand congregational mosque, along with various ruins from the 10th to the 17th centuries, further testify to the city’s historical significance.

Just a short distance from Shemakha lies the enchanting locale of Pirguli, renowned for its snowy landscapes. This area is perhaps the only place in sun-drenched Azerbaijan where visitors can indulge in winter sports such as skiing and snowboarding. Additionally, Pirguli is home to the largest astrophysical observatory in Azerbaijan and the entire Caucasus region. The Nasreddin Tusi Observatory is equipped with state-of-the-art technology, including one of the largest telescopes in the CIS, boasting a mirror diameter of 2 meters.

The unique natural beauty of Shemakha is complemented by a mild climate and an abundance of mineral springs. The region is adorned with oak, beech, and hornbeam forests, alongside lush green fields and shrubs, creating an unparalleled aesthetic appeal. Over 50 species of medicinal herbs thrive here, contributing to the area’s rich biodiversity. The forests are also home to a variety of wildlife, including deer, wild boars, and bears, making it a haven for nature lovers.

Shemakha has gained fame as the birthplace of many prominent Azerbaijani philosophers, architects, and scholars, such as Khagani, Nesimi, and Sabir. The great Russian poet Alexander Pushkin even mentioned Shemakha in his tale “The Tale of the Golden Cockerel.” In the 19th century, the city became renowned for its talented dancers, who were famously described in the memoirs of the French writer Alexandre Dumas.

Gulistan Fortress – The most famous landmark in Shemakha is Gulistan Fortress, a once-mighty structure that served as a stronghold for the Shirvanshahs during their reign when Shemakha was the capital of their state. Historians believe that the palace of the Shirvanshahs stood within its walls. The earliest artifacts discovered at this site date back to the 9th century, suggesting that the fortress has a history spanning over a thousand years.

Throughout the Middle Ages, this legendary fortress became a focal point in fierce battles for control over Shirvan. Its walls withstood assaults from Arab, Seljuk, Mongol, and Ottoman forces. The fortress is encircled by formidable walls, featuring numerous round and rectangular towers. A winding path leads from the lower part of the fortress to the citadel, perched atop a mountain and surrounded by a continuous ring of walls.

One of the unique features of the fortress is a long secret passage carved into the rock, measuring 2 meters wide and 3 meters high. This passage was designed for escape, connecting the fortress to a stream flowing deep in the ravine. Although the fortress endured significant damage from numerous earthquakes, its ruins can still be seen today, serving as a testament to the city’s rich historical past as one approaches Shemakha.

Yeddi Gumbaz (Seven Domes) – Located at the foot of Gulistan Fortress, the Yeddi Gumbaz mausoleum, which dates back to the 15th century, is known as the burial site of the Shirvan rulers. The name translates to “Seven Domes,” referring to the seven tombs housed within the crypt. Today, these tombs appear as partially ruined stone domes that seem to rise directly from the earth amidst a desolate graveyard. The atmosphere surrounding Yeddi Gumbaz is imbued with a mystical charm, making it a captivating site for visitors.

Diri-Baba is a unique architectural monument, a two-story mosque-mausoleum from the 15th century, located along the road from Baku to Shemakha in the village of Maraza, opposite an old cemetery. For many years, locals believed that a saint named Diri-Baba was buried here, and the site has become associated with numerous legends and mystical tales. Since the 17th century, it has attracted many pilgrims and travelers.

The structure is remarkable in that the architect seemingly “embedded” the tomb within the rock, creating the illusion that it is suspended above the ground. The mausoleum impresses with its architectural austerity and clean lines, and against the rugged backdrop of dark rock, the smooth, light surface of its walls appears almost ceremonial.

Interestingly, the second floor is considered the main level of the building. Visitors first enter a small vestibule topped with an octagonal dome, where they would remove their shoes. From the vestibule, a hewn stone staircase leads to the second floor of the mausoleum. This hall, approximately 15 square meters, is crowned with a spherical dome. A commemorative text etched into the wall mentions the name of Shirvanshah Sheikh Ibrahim I. A decorative band with inscriptions encircles the building, separating the two levels. The mausoleum is closely integrated with the rock, which features a grotto that serves as the burial site of the saint, accessed through a narrow passage in the northern wall.

The picturesque surroundings of Diri-Baba are characterized by rocky cliffs and lush green trees. Unfortunately, the full name of the architect remains unknown; only a fragment of stone with part of the inscription “…son of the master Hajji” and the date of construction—1402—has survived. Today, this monument is protected by the state.

Lahij is a village named after the Lagich tribe, which migrated from Iran in the 4th to 5th centuries. This historical and architectural monument was established in the 5th century within the canyon of the Girdiman River. It is home to ancient mosques, baths, and a medieval water supply and sewage system.

Although Lahij has been designated a historical and cultural reserve, local residents continue to live here, primarily engaging in craftsmanship. They create exquisite household items from copper (such as cauldrons, trays, and jugs), leather goods, and carpets, alongside agricultural activities. For centuries, the Lagich tribe has traded its products, which gained fame throughout the Middle East. Today, visitors can purchase a variety of handcrafted items, including carpets, pottery, daggers, and more, in local workshops and souvenir shops.

The Juma Mosque stands as the oldest and largest mosque in Azerbaijan and the entire Caucasus region. According to tradition, it was founded in the 8th century when Shemakha was chosen as the residence of the Arab caliph. The precise date of its construction is documented to be 744 AD, established through research conducted by a geological commission from Tbilisi led by Prince Shakuli Qajar. This date was confirmed by an Arabic inscription on the facade of the Juma Mosque, which indicates the 126th year of the Islamic calendar as its foundation year. This period marked the beginning of the construction of new religious structures (mosques) across modern-day Azerbaijan. The Juma Mosque in Shemakha is recognized as the earliest mosque in the Caucasus, following the Juma Mosque in Derbent, built in 734 AD.

The mosque features a unique architectural design, with its vast prayer hall divided into three independent sections connected by wide openings. Each section has its own mihrab (prayer niche) and entrance, allowing for a spacious and communal worship experience.

Over the centuries, the mosque has suffered significant damage due to wars and earthquakes, leading to multiple reconstructions. The modern appearance of the mosque was largely established in the 20th century, when it was almost completely rebuilt while preserving its original foundation and architectural principles. It retains its three halls, with the central hall topped by a massive dome, while the two side halls feature smaller domes. A band of windows adorned with intricate latticework runs beneath the central dome, illuminating the interior with natural light. The entire facade is beautifully decorated with ornamental motifs, enhancing its grandeur.