Six Reasons to Visit Shemakha

Shemakha, one of the oldest cities in the East, is renowned as the birthplace of many prominent Azerbaijani philosophers, architects, and scholars. Even the great Alexander Sergeyevich Pushkin mentioned this city in his “Tale of the Golden Cockerel,” famously writing, “Gift me a maiden, the queen of Shemakha.” Here, we present at least six compelling reasons to visit Shemakha and its surroundings.

Shemakha is celebrated for its rich historical and architectural heritage. Within the city limits, there are over twenty notable monuments. One of the most significant sites is the Juma Mosque, built in 743 AD. This mosque holds the distinction of being the first Islamic structure in Azerbaijan. Unfortunately, its current appearance bears little resemblance to the original, as it was nearly destroyed by a powerful earthquake in the early 20th century. However, the resilient locals rebuilt it, and it now stands as the oldest mosque in the Caucasus and the Middle East, second only to the Derbent Cathedral Mosque.

The Juma Mosque is situated in the central trading square, accompanied by a madrasa that forms part of its architectural complex. Another must-visit site is the “Yeddi Gumbaz” cemetery, located 1.5 kilometers west of the city. This site derives its name from the seven mausoleums of the Shemakha khans from the 18th and 19th centuries, although only four mausoleums have survived to this day. The oldest of these structures dates back to 1810, as evidenced by an inscription above its entrance. The mausoleums are octagonal in shape, symbolizing Islam, and served as burial sites for the royal family, surrounded by the graves of their notable contemporaries.

Three kilometers from the city lie the ruins of the medieval Gulistan Fortress. The trek to the fortress involves navigating slippery stone paths with steep ascents, so be sure to wear comfortable shoes! Once a formidable structure with walls two meters thick, Goylistan was built atop a rocky mountain 200 meters high, northwest of Shemakha. It served as both a refuge and the secondary residence of the Shirvanshahs. The fortress had defensive walls built along the mountainside, and the citadel was strategically placed at the summit, with water supplied through clay pipes and even an underground passage.

Shemakha boasts a culinary heritage that spans over two millennia. Throughout this time, the culinary preferences of its residents have evolved, yet one dish remains a constant favorite: Shemakhan Govurma. This dish is a staple on the menus of local restaurants and cafes. Invented by Shemakhan shepherds, it is colloquially referred to as “Choban-Govurma,” which translates to “shepherd’s stew.”

The cooking process is simple yet delightful. Oil sizzles in a pan as potatoes are fried with their skins on—shepherds, it seems, had no time to peel them. Next, lamb is added, followed by onions, tomatoes, and herbs, all cut into large chunks and cooked over high heat. The key to authentic Govurma is the use of clarified butter; everything must be natural. The entire preparation takes no more than ten minutes. If you find yourself in Shemakha, this dish is a must-try!

Located 28 kilometers from Shemakha is the village of Damirchi, which translates to “Blacksmith” in Azerbaijani. It is said that one in every two residents here is a metalworker. The secrets of metal processing have been passed down through generations in local families. The history of Damirchi dates back to the 15th century when it served as a strategically important point along the ancient Silk Road, with several caravanserais where locals could shoe horses and repair carts.

Today, the village attracts tourists eager to experience its rich craftsmanship. Visitors can relax in a tea house, attend blacksmithing workshops, and shop for souvenirs in local stores, where a variety of mementos await.

The only safari park in Azerbaijan is located in Shemakha, at an altitude of 2,000 meters. Spanning 620 hectares, it is home to over a thousand wild animals. Due to safety regulations, walking in the park is prohibited, and violators face a $100 fine. Visitors can only traverse the park by car, accompanied by a staff member.

The safari park encompasses a portion of the Pirgulu Nature Reserve, rich in mountain rams and marals. However, other inhabitants, such as deer and mouflons, are on the brink of extinction. Guided tours are available for a fee, with proceeds going towards the conservation of rare species. The park is open from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM, featuring a 10-kilometer walking route where visitors are most likely to spot animals near feeding stations. This unique opportunity allows wildlife enthusiasts to observe these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat while contributing to conservation efforts. 🦙

Shemakha is home to Azerbaijan’s only astronomical center, perched at an elevation of over 1,500 meters. This facility boasts the largest telescope in the entire Muslim world, with a remarkable diameter of two meters. While many have heard of this extraordinary site, the activities that take place within its conical structure remain a mystery to most. Our film crew was fortunate enough to gain access to the inner sanctum of the Nasreddin Tusi Astrophysical Observatory.

Founded in 1959, the observatory was established after a special expedition in the early 20th century identified the Pirgulu region of Shemakha as the ideal location, benefiting from up to 200 sunny days a year. This advantageous position allows for superior study of the southern sky compared to other observatories worldwide. Currently, the observatory houses six telescopes: two dedicated solely to solar observation, while the others are used for studying stars and celestial bodies. A major renovation in 2013 transformed the facility, automating operations that were previously conducted manually. The old Soviet control panel is now preserved in the observatory’s museum, alongside various findings from Azerbaijani scientists. A particular favorite among visitors is a 127-kilogram cosmic stone composed of 95% iron.

Located near the town of Gobustan (formerly Maraza), the Diri-Baba Mausoleum, built in 1402, is a significant architectural marvel. This site is distinct from the more famous Gobustan near Baku, known for its petroglyphs and mud volcanoes. The Diri-Baba Mausoleum only gained city status in 2008 after being a town since 1968.

As you approach the city, a road branches off to the left, leading to an ancient cemetery and the small mausoleum of Diri-Baba, which is literally built into the rock and considered a masterpiece of Shirvan architecture. In the 17th century, traveler Adam Olearius noted that the saint Diri-Baba sits here in a state of eternal prayer, with priests changing his cloak annually, distributing pieces of the old one to the people. Over the years, only a portion of the mausoleum’s interior decoration has survived, found in one corner of the structure. Opposite the mausoleum lies a cemetery filled with intricately carved gravestones, further enhancing the site’s historical significance.