Sumug-gala tower

Located in a rugged gorge to the north of Gakh, at the very end of a winding asphalt road, lies the quaint village of Ilisu. This unassuming settlement, perched on the fringes of Azerbaijan near the Dagestan border, was once the bustling capital of a small local sultanate during the turbulent 19th century. Its ruler, aligning with the legendary Imam Shamil, the charismatic leader of the North Caucasian resistance against Russian expansion, served as a naib (deputy) in the protracted Caucasian War (1817–1864). This alliance, born of shared faith and defiance, ultimately spelled the sultanate’s demise as Russian forces consolidated control over the region, incorporating it into their empire. The war, a brutal conflict marked by guerrilla tactics, sieges, and cultural clashes, saw Shamil’s forces hold out for decades, inspiring countless stories of heroism and resilience.

Today, Ilisu is most renowned for its striking Sumug-gala tower, a formidable stone sentinel standing guard at the village entrance. This architectural relic, believed to date back to the early 19th century or possibly earlier, embodies the defensive structures typical of the region’s turbulent past. Built as a watchtower and refuge during conflicts, it features thick walls and a sturdy design that echoes the medieval fortresses scattered across the Caucasus. What sets Sumug-gala apart is its rarity in Azerbaijan; while the North Caucasus boasts numerous such towers—remnants of ancient clans like the Avars, Chechens, and Ingush—this one stands as a singular example in the country, offering a tangible link to the broader Caucasian heritage.

The tower’s fame extends beyond history into the realm of cinema, immortalized in the final scene of the 1981 Soviet film “Don’t Be Afraid, I’m With You,” directed by Yuri Chulyukin. In this poignant drama, the tower serves as a dramatic backdrop for the protagonists’ climactic confrontation.

Visitors can now step inside for a modest fee, ascending through several floors to explore a compact ethnographic museum. Here, artifacts like traditional clothing, tools, and relics from local life provide insight into the region’s pastoral and martial past. Yet, the tower’s restoration raises questions: sealed at the top with no viewing platform, it lacks the panoramic vistas one might expect, prompting debates among historians about authenticity versus preservation. Despite these quirks, the structure’s North Caucasian aesthetic—robust, weathered stone and a sense of enduring strength—feels undeniably authentic, a stark contrast to the polished facades of Azerbaijan’s urban centers.

Here, in Ilisu, the mountains speak of ancient rivalries, nomadic traditions, and the indomitable human spirit. Wandering its narrow streets, one encounters echoes of that sultanate era: modest homes with clay roofs, terraced fields clinging to slopes, and locals sharing stories over tea. The village’s isolation, while challenging for access, preserves its charm, making it a pilgrimage for history buffs and film enthusiasts alike.