Astara

Nestled on the Caspian Sea’s coastline, Astara is a charming city steeped in history and cultural significance. What makes Astara unique is that it straddles the border between two countries: Azerbaijan to the north and Iran to the south, separated precisely by the course of the Astara River (Astaraçay).

Astara’s story dates back over a millennium. First mentioned in records from the year 984 as a village along the trade route from Persia to Shirvan, it gained prominence during the 16th and 17th centuries under the Safavid dynasty. At that time, Astara became the residence of the Safavid governor overseeing the Talysh region. However, the city’s unity was disrupted in 1813 following the Russo-Persian War, when the Treaty of Gulistan established the new border along the Astara River, effectively splitting the once unified settlement into two separate cities belonging to different countries.

Today, the two Astaras are roughly equal in land area, but their character and scale differ dramatically. Iranian Astara, with a population of about 46,000, is a bustling, densely built city featuring numerous high-rise buildings and a lively bazaar atmosphere. In contrast, Azerbaijani Astara is a quieter, low-rise town of around 16,000 residents, embodying a tranquil provincial charm on the sea’s edge. Visually, the Iranian side appears far larger and more vibrant, while the Azerbaijani side retains a peaceful, understated appeal.

Despite its current reputation as a quiet backwater of Azerbaijan, Astara’s strategic importance is set to grow significantly. Plans by Russia and Iran to develop a major North-South transport corridor include constructing a new railway through the Gilan mountains in Iran. This ambitious project promises to connect the Baltic Sea with the Indian Ocean via a continuous rail link, passing through Astara. Within a few years, travelers and freight alike may be able to journey seamlessly from Northern Europe to South Asia, with Astara playing a pivotal role in this historic route.

Modern Azerbaijani Astara has evolved into a genuine tourist destination, boasting a relatively well-developed infrastructure. Visitors can find modern hotels, cozy hostels along the coast, as well as a variety of shops and restaurants offering diverse culinary experiences. The city’s climate is humid subtropical, allowing for warm weather well into late autumn. Winters are mild, with average temperatures around +4°C, while summers heat up to +27°C or higher. The bathing season typically starts in May and extends through October, as the Caspian Sea waters warm to a comfortable +26°C, with even warmer temperatures in shallow areas.

The air in Astara is famously fresh and clean, infused with delightful citrus aromas that enhance the overall experience of relaxation. Astara is a haven for lovers of fresh fruits and natural produce. Beyond the usual citrus staples like oranges, grapefruits, and mandarins, the region also cultivates kiwis, feijoas, bananas, and avocados. The surrounding valleys are dotted with coffee plantations and tea gardens.

One of Astara’s most distinctive attractions is its wide, sandy coastline stretching nearly two kilometers. The beach sand here is volcanic in origin and strikingly black, a feature it shares with the nearby city of Lankaran. This black sand is reputed to have therapeutic properties, attracting visitors seeking health benefits alongside leisure.

The Caspian waters at Astara are warm and clean, with a gently sloping seabed that extends tens of meters offshore. Unlike many beaches, the seabed is mostly free of rocks and boulders, making it ideal for swimming and wading.

As evening falls, visitors often enjoy leisurely walks along Astara’s promenade, which is adorned with fountains and waterfalls, creating a serene atmosphere. A highlight of the boulevard is the famous tandoor oven, measuring 12 meters in diameter and 6.5 meters high, where traditional Astara bread is baked. 

The coastal boulevard is the city’s main attraction, featuring signs pointing toward Iran and bustling markets near the border. Iranian merchants frequently cross over to trade in the Azerbaijani side’s stalls and shops, creating a lively cross-border marketplace. Much like in Lankaran, the most captivating experiences are often found not in the urban center but in the nearby mountains, which are easily accessible from the city.

Astara caters primarily to visitors seeking calm and measured relaxation. It is especially popular among older travelers and families, who appreciate the city’s gentle pace and natural beauty. In contrast, younger tourists and teenagers may find the atmosphere too quiet, as nightlife and high-energy entertainment options are limited.