Chirag Gala

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Chirag Gala fortress

The fertile plains of lowland Azerbaijan have long drawn the attention of northern tribes beyond the Caucasus Mountains. For centuries—perhaps even millennia—conflict with these invaders raged on. Yet, despite the relentless pressure of the nomadic hordes from the Caspian steppes, one critical obstacle stood in their way: a narrow passage between the Caucasus Mountains and the Caspian Sea. This geographical bottleneck gave the defenders a considerable strategic advantage. However, as long as the tribes of the South Caucasus remained fragmented, the decision to fight or allow northern invaders through often depended on the interests of individual local rulers.

Everything changed with the emergence of Caucasian Albania—a powerful state encompassing parts of modern-day Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Dagestan. The Albanians had a vested interest in halting the advance of nomadic tribes, and they established defensive outposts at the region’s most vulnerable chokepoints. Initially, these defenses were rudimentary—consisting of trenches and earthen mounds—some remnants of which can still be seen today. However, a significant shift occurred when the region fell under Persian influence, especially after the appointment of marzpans (Persian military governors) in 510 CE. This marked the beginning of an ambitious period of defensive construction.

The marzpans were representatives of the Sasanian Empire, entrusted with maintaining control over strategic border regions. Under their authority, a formidable defensive network was established to guard against northern incursions. Approximately 100 kilometers north of modern-day Baku, a massive wall was erected—reminiscent of the Great Wall of China. This barrier stretched from the shores of the Caspian Sea across the coastal plain to the mountains, where the mighty Chirag-Gala fortress stood sentinel.

By the 6th and 7th centuries, the defensive system had evolved into a comprehensive four-tiered structure:

  1. The Derbent fortifications formed the first line of defense.
  2. The Gilgilchay wall served as the second and most extensive barrier.
  3. The Beshbarmag fortifications made up the third line.
  4. The Baku defenses acted as the final safeguard.

Each fortification spanned the narrow coastal corridor between the mountains and the sea, forming an unbroken defensive wall with a single controlled passage point. These fortifications included signal towers, which allowed for rapid communication through fire signals. Notably, the Gilgilchay wall was the longest, extending an impressive 50 kilometers, while the Beshbarmag defense line stretched 1.75 kilometers from the fortress to the sea. At the heart of this defensive system stood the formidable Chirag-Gala fortress.

Perched at an altitude of 1,232 meters above sea level, Chirag-Gala was constructed between the 4th and 6th centuries CE. Alongside the fortresses of Baku and Derbent, it formed a critical part of the Caspian defense system and was the key stronghold of the Gilgilchay wall. For over a millennium—until the 18th century—it served as a vital military outpost.

The fortress performed multiple essential functions:

  1. Command Post: It housed weapons and provided shelter for off-duty sentinels.
  2. Observation Point: From its elevated position, the fortress offered an unparalleled vantage point, allowing guards to monitor the surrounding region for many kilometers.
  3. Signal Station: In the event of an approaching enemy, a beacon would be lit atop the fortress, alerting the inhabitants of ancient Shabran and transmitting warnings through a network of signal towers extending as far as Baku.

It is this final function that gave Chirag-Gala its name—translated as “Tower of Light” (Çıraq-qala in Azerbaijani).

The fortress complex consists of 17 towers, with the central tower rising dramatically from a craggy mountain peak. Its walls and towers are built from rough-hewn stone blocks, interspersed with sections of brickwork. A fragment of the defensive wall still adjoins the main tower. Nearby lies a vaulted cistern (ovdan), which once drew water from subterranean springs. The surviving tower exhibits an intriguing architectural detail: the alternating layers of stone and brick bear a striking resemblance to Baku’s iconic Maiden Tower.

Following Azerbaijan’s incorporation into the Russian Empire, the Caspian defense system fell into disuse, and Chirag-Gala was abandoned. Over time, most of its towers crumbled into ruin. However, the main tower remains remarkably well-preserved, its distinctive ribbed silhouette echoing the form of the Maiden Tower.

From Chirag-Gala’s lofty perch, one can see the imposing Beshbarmag Mountain in the distance—a reminder of the next line of ancient fortifications that once shielded Azerbaijan from northern invaders.