Haput village

Even on Google Maps, finding the small settlement of Haput is no easy task. Only after patiently zooming in on the southeastern part of the Guba district does the brief name “Haput” emerge amid the folds of mountainous terrain. Reaching Haput is even more challenging than locating it on a map.

A two-hour drive from Baku to Guba—the apple capital of Azerbaijan—is a relatively easy journey compared to what lies ahead. From Guba to the popular tourist village of Khinalug, an incredibly scenic road winds along the canyon of the Gudialchay River and climbs through alpine meadows. The route is breathtaking but treacherous, especially in winter. After traveling 40 kilometers to the village of Alyg, only a four-wheel-drive vehicle can traverse the final stretch.

From there, another five kilometers follow a rocky riverbed until you arrive at Haput—a lost mountain world perched at an altitude of two thousand meters above sea level. The village is tiny; one can stroll around it in about 20 minutes, even without hurrying. But there is no rush here—life in Haput follows a slow, seasonal rhythm.

Winter dominates three-quarters of the year, beginning in October and lasting until May. Yet, this harsh climate does not dampen spirits; the locals are accustomed to it. Despite the cold, homes remain warm, heated by bricks made from dried sheep and cow dung, known locally as “tezek,” carefully prepared for the winter months.

Around one hundred families inhabit the village. In October, most descend to the lowlands to tend livestock—cows and sheep—and maintain their farms. Women spin yarn from sheep’s wool and knit hats, socks, vests, and carpets—everything needed for warmth and comfort. When summer arrives, Haput’s families return to the mountains, leaving behind the elderly and older women who stay through the winter, having no need to relocate to the plains.

Haput belongs to the Shahdag mountain village group, named after the nearby peak. The straight-line distance from Haput to Shahdag is about 20 kilometers.

More than just a place name, Haput is also an ethnonym: it identifies a small people who have preserved their unique identity and language. Descendants of the Haput people also live in two larger villages in the Ismailli district—Gadzhigatamli and Mollaisagly—as well as several smaller settlements. These communities trace their roots back to ancestors who long ago descended from the mountains.

Among themselves, Haput residents speak the Haput language, part of the North Caucasian language family and closely related to Lezgian languages. Recently, a textbook in the Haput language was published, and native language lessons are soon to be introduced in local schools, ensuring the survival of this linguistic heritage.

The Haput people maintain warm relations with their neighbors and are always eager to welcome guests with traditional dishes. These include shepherd’s pilaf, hearty stews made from offal, rich layered pastries called “feseli,” and dried lamb and beef prepared in winter in a tandyr oven. Above all, they take great pride in their mountain honey—known as “sharaf”—which they claim has no equal anywhere in the world.

Haput remains a remarkable enclave where ancient customs and a resilient way of life endure amid the breathtaking landscapes of Azerbaijan’s high mountains. It is a place where time slows, traditions thrive, and the spirit of a unique people continues to shine.