Kryz village

Nestled at the eastern foothills of Mount Shahdag and scattered across the plains lie the ancient villages of peoples who once formed part of Caucasian Albania. Among these historic settlements is the village of Kryz, from which the Kryz people derive their name. The Kryz were one of the 26 tribes that made up Caucasian Albania some 2,000 years ago.

Throughout history, the Kryz have been primarily shepherds. In summer, they grazed their flocks—mainly Lezgin sheep—on alpine meadows, then drove them down to the lowlands for the winter. During this seasonal migration, most of the men involved in herding, milking, and shearing the sheep would leave the village, leaving behind mainly the elderly and children to stay through the cold months. Within family circles, the Kryz language is spoken—a unique tongue entirely distinct from Azerbaijani. Today, only a few thousand people worldwide understand it. The mountain communities here have been so isolated for centuries that each valley developed its own language. For example, neighboring valleys are home to the Budukh people, whose language, according to linguist Gilles Authier, differs structurally from Kryz even more than Azerbaijani differs from Uzbek.

The toponym “Kryz” was first recorded in a 10th-century source. Historically, Kryz was a fortress, though today only ruins remain. The earliest mention of the Kryz people in Russian documents dates back to the early 18th century. Johann Gustav Gerber, a German-born officer in the Russian army, wrote about them during Peter the Great’s Persian Campaign (1722–1723). At that time, Kryz belonged to the Shamakhi Khanate. By 1768, their lands had been incorporated into the Kuba Khanate, and on January 8, 1806, the Kryz territories came under Russian imperial rule.

During the reign of Fatali Khan (1758–1789), ruler of the Kuba Khanate, several Mountain Jewish families were resettled in Kryz. To this day, a Jewish cemetery remains in the village. In 1810, Kryz served as the center of the Kuba Khanate’s last ruler, Sheikh-Ali (1791–1806), who resisted recognizing Russian authority for four months. Local lore tells that when medieval Persia began persecuting Jews, some found refuge in Kryz. The village still holds an ancient Jewish cemetery, and archaeological digs have uncovered a silver tray inscribed in ancient Hebrew.

In many ways, the stones of Kryz tell its story better than words. Elders speak of seven graves stacked one above the other, layered seven deep. Ancient burial sites occupy nearly all the open spaces not taken by homes, and stone steles can be found even in some courtyards. The sheer number of these stones reveals the village’s former magnitude: according to an 1879 census (“Collection of Information on the Caucasus”), Kryz had 714 households and 4,795 inhabitants. Today, only about 30 homes remain.

For centuries, the Kryz lived mostly by shepherding, though this brought modest income. They were also known for occasional raids. Yet over time, they proved themselves excellent farmers. Not only did they become skilled plowmen, but they also cultivated remarkable fruit orchards.

Between the 1860s and 1880s, large patriarchal families began to break apart. Additionally, the rise of madder cultivation led some Kryz to migrate to the plains, specifically to the Myushkyur Magal—a region in the northern Kuba district where large tracts of land were cleared for growing madder and the Caucasian variety of rice called chaltik.

Today, the Kryz are known for their craftsmanship—creating carpets, rugs, patterned woolen socks, shawls, felt-making, leather tanning, and producing leather goods. Visitors to Kryz will often be greeted by children selling woolen socks, a charming glimpse into local life.

Several years ago, the narrow and perilous trail that was the only route from the Gudyalchay Gorge to Kryz was widened into a dirt road, making access much easier. This new road has connected Kryz to the wider world, and occasional visitors now come to the village. Strangers are always warmly welcomed—invited into homes, offered tea, and even a place to stay overnight. However, guests are kindly advised not to arrive empty-handed, as hospitality here is heartfelt and reciprocal.