At the center of Krasnaya Sloboda stands the remarkable Six-Domed Synagogue, with its auxiliary buildings sprawling across an entire block. The architect behind most of the synagogues in Krasnaya Sloboda was a man named Hillel ben Chaim.
The Shesh-Gombora, as the synagogue is known, was repurposed into a sewing factory during the Soviet era, returning to its sacred function only in 1995. By 2001, it had been restored with the help of local residents, Mordechai Abramov and Elizar Nisanov.
Hillel ben Chaim was also responsible for the construction of the Gilyan Synagogue in 1888. Most of the Gilyan Jews migrated from Shirvan to Quba during the 1760s and 1780s, when Quba effectively became the capital of Shirvan. This means they have lived here almost since the establishment of the sloboda, but they fully integrated into the Mountain Jewish community at least a century later.
Above the main hall of the synagogue is a characteristic “lantern,” a feature typical of local synagogues.
Another synagogue boasts a similar “lantern,” which historically likely served as a Hasidic synagogue.
The ceiling beneath this lantern is particularly beautiful:
The remaining synagogues, lacking lanterns, Stars of David, and mezuzahs, blend seamlessly into the background, their presence almost understated in their simplicity.
Overlooking Krasnaya Sloboda, amidst the tall weeds of the green hillside, looms the Jewish cemetery.
The shape of the gravestones evokes associations either with Armenian or Ashkenazi styles, but they bear no resemblance to the nearby Muslim cemeteries.
Most graves remain undisturbed, with no pathways leading to them through the overgrowth. The staircase leading to the cemetery culminates at the ohel, where the righteous and wise of the Mountain Jews are laid to rest.
This cemetery staircase not only serves as a passage to the resting place of revered figures but also offers a stunning observation point, providing a panoramic view of the entire Quba region and the distant, azure peak of Shahdag (4,243 meters), the highest summit in the Azerbaijani part of Dagestan.
