Gelersen-Gorersen fortress

Gelyarsan-Goyarsan: a fortress that withstood the test of time.

“Came, saw, and… did not conquer.” This phrase might evoke images of Julius Caesar in Ancient Rome, but the story here unfolds in Azerbaijan, in a very different era and among different people.

The remnants of this impregnable medieval fortress, dating back to the 8th-9th centuries, are nestled three kilometers from the village of Kish, perched atop the majestic Mount Karatapa. The rulers of Sheki frequently sought refuge within its walls during enemy invasions, making it a strategic stronghold in turbulent times.

The name of the fortress translates from Azerbaijani to “you will come and see,” a phrase linked to one such invasion that occurred in the 18th century. At that time, Sheki was a province of Persia, and in the early 1740s, the local khan, Haji-Chelabi, rebelled against the oppressive Persian rule. In 1743, the Persian ruler Nadir Shah marched with a vast army to quell the rebellion. However, Haji-Chelabi took shelter in the fortress and firmly refused to surrender. Nadir Shah was taken aback, asking, “How can you defend yourself?” To which Haji-Chelabi replied, “You will come and see.” Historically, after four months of siege, the Persians were unable to capture the fortress and ultimately retreated.

Today, little remains of the fortress, yet tourists are drawn to explore its proud ruins atop Mount Karatapa. To reach this historical site, visitors must first travel to the city of Sheki, then proceed to the village of Kish, cross the river of the same name by foot, and walk an additional 1.5 kilometers. Alternatively, one can opt for a taxi directly from Sheki.

Entry to the fortress is free, inviting exploration and adventure. You might wonder what else awaits you there. The answer is simple: “You will come and see.”