Kish village

Traveling through Azerbaijan, it would be a significant oversight to miss the charming city of Sheki. Equally important, however, is a visit to the nearby village of Kish, located just five kilometers away. This quaint village holds a fascinating connection to the renowned Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl, who sought evidence to support his theory that the ancestors of Norwegians arrived in Scandinavia from Azerbaijan two thousand years ago. According to Heyerdahl, it was from this region of the South Caucasus that legendary Vikings, led by the first Norwegian king Odin, began their journey westward. This assertion is not merely speculative; it is backed by serious scientific research.

Heyerdahl was particularly intrigued by the rock carvings of maritime vessels found in Gobustan, where over one hundred such depictions have been documented. He confidently stated that these were reed boats, contemporaries of the Sumerians, and prototypes of the “Tigris.” His research suggested that the Sumerian civilization, which emerged five thousand years ago, had connections with Gobustan. Further investigations revealed that these “Gobustan ships” set sail in the 7th to 6th centuries BCE, making them some of the oldest maritime vessels known to humanity. If the first shipbuilders departed from the shores of Absheron, then this area can be considered one of the earliest cradles of civilization, from which humanity spread first to the south and then to the north.

Heyerdahl continued his research upon returning home, analyzing the “Icelandic sagas,” which were based on ancient chronicles brought to Iceland by Norwegian kings (the originals of these chronicles are still preserved in Iceland). He concluded that the sagas contained the very narratives that exist in Norway as oral traditions, the authenticity of which is unquestioned. In these sagas, the chronicler Snorri names the land of Azer, from which the first Viking king Odin, “of the lineage of the gods,” used his magical knowledge to lead his people to Scandinavian lands. The “Icelandic sagas” recount the lives and reigns of 31 generations of Norwegian kings up until 1213. The approximate date of their rule coincides with the date of the Vikings’ departure from Gobustan, as confirmed by archaeological excavations. Studies indicate that the Albanians of that era were tall blond individuals with blue eyes, averaging a remarkable height of 2.2 meters.

Heyerdahl posited that the Vikings traveled via the Caspian Sea, through the Volga, and then westward through Novgorod and Kiev. He suggested that the ancestors of the Norwegian Vikings were the first kings of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland. How does that sound? And remember, this incredible story is connected to a small, little-known Azerbaijani village called Kish.

In our perception, Azerbaijan is primarily a Muslim country, where Islam took root as early as the 7th century CE, during the initial decades of the religion’s spread across the globe. However, prior to this, the region experienced seven centuries of Christian cultural presence, a legacy that has partially survived to this day. One of the key pieces of evidence for this can be found in the ancient village of Kish, situated at an elevation of about 1,000 meters above sea level, at the foot of Mount Tat, just five kilometers north of Sheki.

From the 3rd century BCE until the 9th-10th centuries CE, the territory of present-day Azerbaijan and the southern regions of Dagestan were home to the ancient state of Caucasian Albania (which, interestingly, has no relation to the modern Balkan country). Among the Albanian monuments, the church in Kish holds special significance, not only as a unique architectural structure but also as a testament to the spread of Christianity in Caucasian Albania and the broader Caucasus region, occurring two thousand years ago.

According to the “History of the Albanians” by Moses Kalakatuyski, the construction of the first Christian church in Caucasian Albania is attributed to the missionary St. Eliseus, who received “the east as his domain, directing his path from Jerusalem to Persia… the holy archpriest arrived in Gis and established a church…” From this ancient source, it is evident that “the locality of Gis” refers to the village of Kish, and the church built by Eliseus is the very one that can still be seen today.

It is unlikely that St. Eliseus constructed the church in the form we see it now; the modern structure cannot be dated back to such an early period. It is more plausible that the first missionary simply adapted a pagan cult building for these purposes, as was common in the early Christian period. However, archaeological excavations at the church site in Kish have uncovered ancient foundations, cult objects, and utensils, proving that a church revered as a place of worship has existed on this site since the first century CE.

It is clear that this church of St. Eliseus marked the beginning of a centuries-long Christian culture in both Caucasian Albania and the entire Caucasus region. Scholars believe that as early as the 4th millennium BCE, there was a significant pagan sanctuary in this area; intriguingly, the word “Kish” in Persian means “place of worship.” This site later became home to a well-preserved Albanian temple from the 12th century. To reach it, one must walk along steep paths paved with river stones in this mountainous Azerbaijani village.

Today, Azerbaijan is home to just over 70 ancient Albanian temples, of which 42 are on the brink of destruction. Only two, located in the villages of Kish and Nij, have undergone significant restoration and are currently in pristine condition. The temple in Kish has been returned to its former glory, resembling its appearance from the early medieval period. Prior to the restoration work, an architectural and historical study was conducted to remove later additions and restore the church’s appearance as it existed in the pre-Arab period.

The thick walls of the Albanian temple likely date back to the 5th-6th centuries, representing the oldest part of the structure. The striking red pyramidal roof is likely a product of the transitional period of Albanian architecture, characteristic of the 9th-10th centuries.

Currently, this ancient Albanian temple, known as the Church of St. Eliseus, is no longer an active religious site but serves as a museum dedicated to the history of Christianity in Caucasian Albania. Inside the church and on its grounds, valuable archaeological materials are on display.

All archaeological finds discovered at the church site are exhibited within its walls. While the collection may be modest, it is intriguing. Visitors can explore artifacts including pottery, jewelry, tools, and interior items, with some dating back to the 3rd millennium BCE.

Currently, this ancient Albanian temple, known as the Church of St. Eliseus, is no longer an active religious site but serves as a museum dedicated to the history of Christianity in Caucasian Albania. Inside the church and on its grounds, valuable archaeological materials are on display.

All archaeological finds discovered at the church site are exhibited within its walls. While the collection may be modest, it is intriguing. Visitors can explore artifacts including pottery, jewelry, tools, and interior items, with some dating back to the 3rd millennium BCE.

Interestingly, the temple grounds also serve as a cemetery, where several burials have been found at a depth of two meters. While it may not be unusual to find graves around churches, the individuals buried here were of remarkable height—some nearly 2.5 meters tall! These true giants can be seen with your own eyes, as archaeologists have constructed glass domes under which the skeletons of these giants are visible, instilling a sense of awe in those who witness them. If you doubt your eyes, historical sources support these claims.

The ancient inhabitants of Kish were described as giants with golden curls and fair skin, contrasting sharply with the familiar appearance of the people from the Caucasus and other Eastern regions. Thor Heyerdahl believed that these early residents of Caucasian Albania were an incoming population with distinct genetic traits not shared by other peoples. The origins of these giants, as well as their reasons for settling in Kish, remain unanswered questions.

Where did they go? Heyerdahl proposed a theory regarding the migration of the Vikings, led by the legendary Odin. This hypothesis is now familiar to you. It’s astonishing to consider that such incredible information originates from a small mountain village in Azerbaijan, near the border with Georgia, a place that many may not have even heard of.