What to taste in Sheki

Many travel guides proclaim Sheki as the gastronomic capital of Azerbaijan, a title that reflects its rich culinary heritage and the vibrant flavors that define this charming town. Among the region’s intangible cultural treasures are two signature dishes: Sheki piti and Sheki baklava. To visit Sheki without indulging in piti is akin to visiting without exploring the magnificent Palace of the Sheki Khans; it’s as if you never truly experienced the essence of the place.

Piti is a hearty and aromatic soup featuring tender pieces of lamb, tail fat, and chickpeas, known locally as “nohud.” This dish is traditionally prepared in individual clay pots and slow-cooked in an oven for about 8 to 10 hours, allowing the flavors to meld beautifully. For those eager to experience the authentic taste of piti, one restaurant stands out with a rather unusual name for Azerbaijan: “Gagarin.” Contrary to what one might think, it is not named after the famous cosmonaut Yuri Alekseyevich Gagarin, but rather after a park that existed in the Soviet era at this location.

Gagarin is reputed to serve the best piti in town, and while you can find this dish at various eateries throughout Sheki, the ambiance and views at Gagarin make it a worthwhile destination. The restaurant is centrally located near the caravanserai, and although it requires a climb up a steep cobblestone street, the effort is rewarded with stunning vistas. Prices are quite budget-friendly, especially considering its popularity.

Piti is served in special clay pots, available in both individual sizes and larger ones akin to a stew pot.

The traditional way to enjoy piti is unique: while it is primarily a soup, it also serves as a second course. Diners first crumble bread into the broth, creating a delicious soup. Once this is consumed, the remaining ingredients—chickpeas and meat—are extracted from the pot, mashed into a puree, and enjoyed, often accompanied by raw onions. This nourishing dish was once a favorite among farmers working in the fields, providing them with sustenance during long hours of labor.

The second hallmark dish of the region is Sheki baklava, a sweet treat that has been crafted since the time of the Sheki Khanate. Visitors can sample this delicacy at local street stalls, where recipes are passed down through generations and kept shrouded in secrecy. The primary ingredients include rice flour, a filling of hazelnuts, saffron, and either sugar or honey syrup. The result is a confection that is both intriguing and exceptionally sweet, making it a delightful indulgence for those with a sweet tooth.

The artisans who specialize in creating Sheki baklava are known as “halvachi,” and their expertise ensures that each piece is a work of art.