Yukhary Bash

For centuries, the village of Nukh, located at the southern foothills of the Caucasus, thrived as a prosperous trading post along the mountain route. Although it did not play a significant role in major historical events, it was in close proximity to the Christian village of Kish, known for its ancient church, and the fortress of Gelyarsan-Geryarsan (“Come and See”), which was famously besieged in 1743 by Nadir Shah, the “Iranian Peter I.” This backdrop laid the foundation for the Sheki Khanate, yet the ancient city of Sheki suffered devastation from wars and was ultimately destroyed in 1772 by a devastating flood of the Kishchay River.

The logical choice for the new capital of the Khanate was the wealthy and well-protected Nukh. For a long time, historians believed that Nukh was merely another name for Sheki, whose ruins were completely washed away by the Kishchay River in subsequent centuries. Meanwhile, Nukh blossomed into a charming town of cobbled streets and towering minarets, set against a backdrop of emerald mountains. In the 20th century, it expanded across the Kishchay Valley, but this growth preserved Yukhary Bash, the historical center located in the valley of the Gurjanachay River, which only bordered the Soviet-era neighborhoods at its lower edge along the Deirmanarx stream.

In March 1968, Nukh was designated as a center for tourism in the Azerbaijan SSR, and Yukhary Bash became a museum-reserve (added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2019). A week later, the town reclaimed its ancient name, Sheki.

Yukhary Bash boasts remarkably preserved medieval architecture, featuring stone and brick houses with red-tiled roofs. Many of these homes showcase intricately carved wooden doors or wrought-iron gates with small, similarly ornate entry doors. The name Yukhary Bash translates literally to “Upper Head,” but it more accurately refers to the “Upper End” of the city.

Navigating Yukhary Bash is virtually impossible to get lost in, as the area is clearly defined. To the west, it is bounded by 20 January Street, which runs alongside the course of the Dairmanarx River. The eastern boundary is marked by Mirza Fatali Akhundzade Street, which stretches from east to west along the Gurjanachay River, with its southern end defined by the Upper City. Between these two streets lies the 2-kilometer-long Fatali Khan Khoiskaya Street, which diagonally crosses Yukhary Bash.

Unlike Baku’s Old City, Icheri Sheher, Yukhary Bash has limited commercial and tourist infrastructure; nearly all hotels and shops are located along Akhundzade Street and on the hill behind it, from which visitors can enjoy a picturesque panorama of the historical part of Sheki and the surrounding mountains. The architecture along Akhundzade Street and in the winding alleys reflects the essence of Old Nukh, characterized by a blend of wild stone and brick, intricate brick patterns, broad wooden cornices, and carved balconies. Above all, the skyline is dominated by tall, four-pitched roofs adorned with colorful tiles.