In the early 18th century, during the reign of Panah Ali Khan, the residents of Shusha transformed a vast meadow on the outskirts of the city into a vibrant venue for celebrations. This meadow, named Jydyr Duzu, meaning “the field for races,” quickly became a place of unity and strength for the community.
During sporting events, Jydyr Duzu would morph into a zorkhana (a traditional arena for wrestling competitions), a racetrack for horse and camel racing, and a field for the game of chovgan, the precursor to modern polo. There, young men from Karabakh showcased their strength and agility to one another and to the women of the community. On festive occasions, the field turned into a lively gathering place where jesters, tightrope walkers, actors, poets, and khansend (mugham performers) would entertain the crowds. During Novruz, bonfires would be lit, and in times of military victories, the people would celebrate with the mass dance known as yalla, forming a giant circle of joy. As Jydyr Duzu became a sacred place for the people of Shusha, it also served as the final resting place for the city’s most esteemed residents.
Over time, the fame of this site spread far beyond the borders of Shusha and Karabakh. People from Baku, Ganja, Sheki, and Lankaran, along with numerous travelers from around the globe, flocked to witness the exhilarating races and traditional festivities. The allure of the Karabakh horses—graceful, powerful, and swift creatures whose shiny reddish coats glisten in the sun—was enough to draw visitors from the ends of the earth.
However, Jydyr Duzu is worth visiting even without the celebrations and races, as it is one of the most beautiful locations in Azerbaijan. To the west, the plateau is bordered by three hills known as Uchmykh, while to the east, it drops into the Dashalty gorge, through which the river of the same name flows. A steep staircase carved into the rock, known as Gyrkh Pillegyan, leads down to the river. It is difficult to determine which season showcases Jydyr Duzu at its best; each season brings its own charm. Yet, many artists who came to capture its beauty at dawn, dusk, during rain, and twilight often preferred spring. During this time, songbirds arrive in Karabakh, and the rare kharibulbul flower blooms on the slopes, resembling a nightingale and giving rise to its name.
This flower, an endemic species from the orchid family that grows almost exclusively around Shusha, has become a symbol of Azerbaijan’s victory in its liberation war. Furthermore, it lends its name to an international music festival, the history of which is intricately linked to the fate of Karabakh and Jydyr Duzu. The first Kharibulbul Festival took place in May 1989, dedicated to the great khansend Seid Shushinski. At that time, seven stages were set up on the plateau for concerts, and attendees were treated to thrilling horse races. Between 1990 and 1991, the festival gained international status, attracting musicians from various countries and becoming a significant event in the world of folk music. Unfortunately, the fourth Kharibulbul Festival, scheduled for 1992 with 500 participants from 30 countries, was canceled when Shusha was occupied by Armenian armed forces on May 8. It was only 30 years later, following the liberation of the city, that the tradition of this festival was revived.
Location: Southeastern outskirts of Shusha.
Elevation: Over 1,400 meters above sea level.
Climate: Moderate, with an average temperature of 18.9 degrees Celsius in July and 2.9 degrees Celsius in January.
How to Get There: Buses to Shusha depart from the international bus station in Baku at 6:30 AM on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays, with a travel time of approximately 12.5 hours.