Shusha

Under Panah Ali Khan’s directive, the city-fortress of Panahabad was established, which later became known as Shusha and served as the capital of the Karabakh Khanate. The fortress walls were designed to be virtually impenetrable by enemies, strategically positioned along the route between summer and winter pastures. Today, the Ganja Gates, the main entrance to the Shusha fortress, remain well-preserved and are one of the city’s notable attractions.

From 1755 to 1823, Shusha functioned as the capital of the Karabakh Khanate. Under the leadership of Ibrahim Khalil Khan, the city was divided into three quarters: Tabrizli, Kazanchali, and Aghlisli. According to a source from 1795, the population of Shusha exceeded 10,000 residents. From 1813 onward, following the Treaty of Gulistan, Shusha became part of Russia. During the Russo-Persian War of 1826-1828, a small garrison in Shusha, led by Colonel Reutt, heroically resisted the Iranian army of Abbas Mirza for approximately 40 days.

Shusha is renowned for its vibrant cultural life, magnificent architecture, and exceptional carpet-making traditions. Often referred to as the cradle of Azerbaijani culture and music, the late 18th and early 19th centuries saw the emergence of the Shusha school of mugham—a fundamental genre of Azerbaijani traditional music. This school, comprised of several creatively distinct branches over the years, was led by prominent mugham performers known as khanende. Its influence extended beyond the Caucasus, reaching across the Middle East. The Encyclopaedia Britannica highlights the city’s significant role in preserving and developing all genres of this ancient art form. According to American historian Ronald Suny, mugham is most strongly associated with the city of Shusha.

As Shusha flourished, it quickly became one of the largest economic centers in the Karabakh Khanate and all of Azerbaijan. The population was predominantly made up of craftsmen and traders. The city boasted numerous mosques, caravanserais, and bazaars, contributing to its bustling atmosphere.

In 1840, Shusha was designated as a district city within the Caspian region of the Russian Empire. By 1867, it had been incorporated into the Elizabethpol Governorate. From 1918 to 1920, Shusha was under the control of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic. However, following the incursion of the 11th Red Army in April 1920, the city became part of the Azerbaijan SSR within the Soviet Union.

Throughout the Soviet era, Shusha experienced frequent changes in administrative status. In 1921, it became the center of the Nagorno-Karabakh Autonomous Oblast, though this designation shifted to Khankendi in 1923, while Shusha was named the center of Malibeyli. During its time in the USSR, Shusha gained recognition as a significant industrial city, hosting a production plant, a weaving workshop for the Karabakh silk factory, and a factory for Eastern musical instruments. The city also featured sanatoriums, rest homes, children’s health camps, and tourist bases. Educational institutions in Shusha trained specialists in agriculture and pedagogy, and numerous literary and musical societies flourished, including the Shusha school of mugham.

In 1977, Shusha was granted the status of a “protected city,” continuing to develop as a tourist destination. Azerbaijani historical monuments were placed under state protection, and mausoleums

Jydyr Duzu – One of the most iconic landmarks in Shusha is Jydyr Duzu, a site that once hosted thrilling competitions featuring the renowned Karabakh horses. The name “Jydyr Duzu” translates to “the field of races,” aptly reflecting its historical significance. Situated on the edge of the Dashalty gorge, near the “Gyrkh Pillegyan” (Forty Steps) that leads down to the Dashalty River, Jydyr Duzu has long been a beloved gathering spot for both locals and visitors. This picturesque location also served as the backdrop for the Kharı-Bülbül Music Festival, held annually on May 12-13, celebrating the rich musical heritage of the region.

The Palace of the Karabakh Khans, dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, is another significant site in Shusha. This grand structure originally comprised numerous rooms spread across two levels. Tragically, the palace was severely damaged during the occupation, but plans are underway for its complete restoration based on historical blueprints. 

The Yukhari Gevher Agha Mosque is a stunning architectural gem located in the main square of Shusha, known as Meydan. Commissioned by Ibrahim Khan between 1768 and 1769, this mosque was rebuilt in 1883-1885 by Ibrahim Khan’s daughter, Gevher Agha, on the site of her father’s original mosque. Designed by the architect Kerbala’i Safi Khan Garabagi, this mosque has undergone restoration following the liberation of Shusha and is now open to visitors, allowing them to appreciate its historical and spiritual significance.

Just 150 meters from the main square lies the Ashaghy Gevher Agha Mosque (Lower Gevher Agha Mosque), constructed at the behest of Gevher Agha, the daughter of the second Karabakh Khan, Ibrahim Khalil Khan. The mosque’s construction was completed in 1865-1866, with the name of the master builder, Kerbala’i Safi Khan, inscribed on its walls. Currently, efforts are underway to restore this mosque, ensuring that its historical legacy is preserved for future generations.

In the 18th century, Shusha was home to the esteemed Azerbaijani poet, statesman, and vizier of the Karabakh Khanate, Molla Panah Vagif. His profound influence and the respect he garnered led to the saying, “Not every literate person can become Molla Panah.” Tragically, following the rise of Mamed Bek, Vagif and his son were executed and thrown from a cliff into the abyss. For many years, his grave became a site of pilgrimage. In 1982, a mausoleum was erected at his burial site, though it has suffered damage over time. Plans for its restoration are currently in place, aiming to honor the legacy of this literary giant.

Among the notable cultural figures born in Shusha are the revered artists Uzeyir Gadjibeyli, Bulbul, and Khurshidbanu Natavan. For years, their bronze busts adorned the city, celebrating their contributions to Azerbaijani culture. Unfortunately, these monuments were dismantled and sent for scrap metal. Fortunately, the busts were later repurchased and transferred to Baku, where they were stored in the courtyard of the National Museum of Arts. Recently, these cherished monuments have finally returned home to Shusha, restoring a piece of the city’s cultural heritage.

Shusha also housed the House-Museum of Uzeyir Gadjibeyli, the founder of Azerbaijani music, the House-Museum of the world-renowned vocalist Murtuza Mamedov, known as Bulbul, and the home of the poetess Khurshidbanu Natavan, affectionately called “Khan Gyzy.” Currently, these museums are in a state of disrepair, with their exhibits having been looted, highlighting the need for urgent restoration and preservation efforts.