Zaqatala

Travel to Zaqatala, Azerbaijan

Located just 30 kilometers west of Kakh, the city of Zagatala boasts a population of approximately 13,100 residents. This captivating region is enveloped by forested mountains, vibrant rivers, and breathtaking waterfalls. Zagatala is not only known for its stunning natural beauty but also for its rich ethnic diversity, with inhabitants from nearby villages proudly identifying as distinct nationalities. Ancient fortresses and historic churches dot the landscape, reminding of the region’s storied past, while locals continue to uphold the authentic traditions passed down through generations.

The city of Zagatala is a very neat, clean, and well-maintained town. All the houses in the city are built from local river stone and fired bricks, painted in standard colors that closely resemble homes found in the provinces of Western Europe. The scale and tidiness of the streets also evoke a European feel—thanks to the absence of tall glass and concrete buildings and congested roads. Additionally, the presence of flowerbeds and trees growing everywhere contributes to a cozy and tranquil atmosphere, making one feel at home and at ease.

Zagatala is a veritable paradise for adventurers and nature lovers alike. It offers a plethora of thrilling trekking opportunities along picturesque mountain trails, the chance to explore unique fortresses carved into rock, and delightful culinary experiences in quaint villages nestled on verdant ridges. 

Historically, the Zagatala district was once a part of Caucasian Albania, an ancient state that disintegrated in the 5th century AD, leading to its regions being absorbed into the Iberian Kingdom, which corresponds to present-day central Georgia. The local Albanian population gradually converted to Orthodox Christianity and came under the rule of the Kakhetian queen, Danara. By the 15th century, the eastern edges of Kakheti and the slopes of Zagatala began to welcome Avars migrating from Dagestan. The following century saw the large-scale incursions of Persian Shah Abbas’s troops, who seized the local populace, paving the way for Azerbaijani settlers to occupy the surrounding lands. The remaining Georgian inhabitants faced pressure to convert to Islam, primarily from the Tsakhurs and Avars, resulting in Zagatala evolving into a truly multi-ethnic region.

The history of Zagatala is closely linked to the ancient Avar village of Jar, which once occupied the site of modern Zagatala. Nearby, in the mountains, the Zagatala fortress was constructed. In the early 18th century, the local population, composed of Azerbaijani Turks, Avars, and Tsakhurs, united into six free societies or alliances. These societies pursued independent policies, often in direct contradiction to the strategies of nearby powerful states, with the Jar society being the most formidable. Notably, in 1738, the warriors of Jar managed to defeat a 32,000-strong Persian army sent to subdue them.

For decades, the mountain dwellers conducted raids into the Georgian region of Kakheti to the west, continuing even after Georgia became a protectorate of the Russian Empire. To restore order, Russian troops captured the previously impregnable fortress of Zagatala and razed it to the ground. In its place, they constructed a new fortress, known as New Zagatala, to exert control over Jar and its surroundings. Gradually, this Russian fortress became the nucleus of a new settlement, which is now called Zagatala.

Zagatala retains a well-preserved historical center, featuring the largest Russian fortress in the South Caucasus. The old town of Zagatala is centered around a beautiful park square, notable for its two 30-meter tall plane trees, planted 250 years ago. To the north of the Old Square lie the walls of the former Russian fortress, New Zagatala, built between 1830 and 1860, which served as a stronghold for the Russian army in the Caucasus. Notably, New Zagatala was the base for the army that fought against the mountain dwellers led by Imam Shamil. Following the end of the Caucasian War, the fortress was repurposed as a prison, famously housing arrested sailors from the revolutionary battleship Potemkin.

While the fortress presents an impressive exterior, its interior consists mainly of several ordinary civilian structures. Until the early 21st century, the fortress was actively used by military forces—first by the Tsarist army, then the Soviet military, and finally the Azerbaijani military. Close to the fortress gates, the ruins of the Armenian church Surb Gevork can be found. According to one theory, before becoming an Armenian church, it was an Albanian church for several centuries, as this part of modern Azerbaijan once belonged to Christian Caucasian Albania.

Galadyuz Park stands out as a major attraction located in the highest mountainous part of the city. Established in 1947, this park not only offers recreational facilities but also serves as a resting place for Russian officers who were stationed here following the capture of Zagatala in 1803.

To the south, along Nizami Ganjavi Avenue, lies a small Historical Museum, showcasing a collection of ancient books, faded photographs, traditional costumes, as well as jewelry and ceramics. A short journey from Zagatala leads to the charming village of Ashagi Tala, renowned for its lavish lavender and rose plantations. The village’s Juma Mosque stands as the largest mosque in the Caucasus, constructed in the 19th century. It has the capacity to accommodate 2,500 worshippers simultaneously. 

A mere 20 kilometers from Zagatala, the village of Yukhari Chardahlar awaits, where visitors are greeted by the awe-inspiring Peri-Kala fortress, dramatically chiseled into a towering rock face. Perched high above the ground at an impressive height of 200 meters, this fortress has puzzled scholars regarding its exact period of construction, with many marveling at the ingenuity required to build such an edifice in such a challenging location. The fortress features a grand entrance with an arch and three interconnected halls, sparking speculation that it may have originally served as a Zoroastrian temple, a theory supported by the fact that Zoroastrian temples from the 4th-5th centuries AD were often built in elevated, mountainous areas.

No visit to Zagatala would be complete without exploring the scenic village of Jar. The 18th-century mosque in the village of Jar was not only a significant religious center but also a political hub during its time. Nearby, the 17th-century Jingeoz Fortress in Jar serves as a unique ethnographic museum, offering insights into the local way of life and architectural traditions. The history of this village is closely tied to the name of Sheikh Shamil, a legendary figure in the region’s struggle for freedom. Locally known as Shamilovka, the fortress was the last refuge of Imam Shamil. A bust of this great Avar Imam and warrior stands proudly in the village, commemorating his legacy.

From here, a hiking trail leads adventurers to the Shamilovka plateau, adorned with stunning alpine meadows. This trek offers breathtaking views of the winding Kateh River, and the route takes approximately five hours to complete, revealing a series of spectacular mountain panoramas along the way. Along the trail, crystal-clear mountain springs provide refreshing, drinkable water, while peaceful herds of sheep and cows graze under the watchful eyes of local shepherds, adding to the pastoral charm of the landscape.

Among the most intriguing monuments of material culture are the burial mounds mentioned by Plutarch, which are said to contain the remains of Albanian warriors and the Amazons who fought alongside them against Pompey nearly 2,000 years ago, known as the Alazankis (named after the Alazani River).

Another significant site is the Zagatala State Reserve, established in 1929, which encompasses the territories of the Zagatala and Balakan districts. This reserve is renowned for its rich flora and fauna, making it a haven for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts. For tourists, the reserve offers guest houses, providing a comfortable base from which to explore the stunning natural surroundings.

For those seeking further adventure, the path from Jar village leads to the Khonzogor plateau and the village of Gabizdere. This trail captivates with its stunning vistas of alpine meadows, sprawling valleys, towering mountain ranges, and lush forests. Along the way, hikers will encounter shepherds’ huts, and conveniently located camping sites allow for an immersive experience in nature.