Lekit village

A 370-kilometer journey from the vibrant heart of Baku brings you to the remote village of Lekit, nestled in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus. The nearest town, Gakh, serves as a convenient base for excursions to nearby gems like Ilisu, Qum, and Lekit itself. Perched on a sloping hillside, Lekit’s terrain grows steeper as you ascend, but the village itself offers little in the way of modern charm—it’s the surrounding wilderness and ancient relics that draw adventurers here.

Beyond the breathtaking natural beauty, the primary allure of Lekit lies in its historical treasures: the ruins of the ancient “Seven Churches” monastery, known in Azerbaijani as Yeddi Kilise (though there are actually nine structures), and the cascading Mamyrly Waterfall. These sites whisper tales of a bygone era, inviting travelers to step back into the mists of time.

The Seven Churches Monastery is tucked away in the forested foothills of the Greater Caucasus, about 3 kilometers from Lekit’s center. If you’re not inclined to pay local villagers for a rugged jeep ride, a scenic hike along a well-marked trail (charted on Organic Maps) offers a rewarding alternative. Ascend through a charming low-growing forest, where the air fills with the earthy scent of pine and wildflowers, until you encounter the remnants of ancient stone gates. Beyond them, a semi-ruined building emerges on a flattened slope that opens into a vast plateau. 

The churches stand in a compact cluster: on one side of the path, a grand basilica flanked by four small chapels; on the other, a larger church and another chapel. Erected between the 6th and 8th centuries, as indicated by on-site plaques, the monastery’s origins remain shrouded in mystery. It may have served as the seat of an Albanian Church bishopric, but online accounts are rife with conflicting details, leaving historians to speculate.

Yet, the ruins themselves are strikingly picturesque, seemingly swallowed by the awakening Caucasian forest after winter’s slumber. Covered in lush moss and creeping ivy, they evoke a sense of enchantment, as if woodland spirits might materialize from the shadows. The site radiates an inexplicable energy—an aura of profound peace and serenity that soothes the soul. It’s a place where the past feels palpably alive, urging visitors to linger and reflect.

To fully appreciate these monuments, one must delve into the region’s rich history. Lekit sits amid the lands once occupied by the ancient Kingdom of Caucasian Albania, a confederation of 26 tribes that thrived from the late 2nd century BCE until the 9th century CE. This realm, with its capital at Gabala for a time, bore no relation to the Balkan Albania of today. By the 10th century, Caucasian Albania was partitioned among neighboring khanates and principalities, and its population gradually converted to Islam.

Christianity arrived in Caucasian Albania in the 4th century, following its spread in Armenia and Georgia, though the first sermons echoed here as early as the 1st century. The apostle Thaddeus’s disciple, Eliseus (also known as Yegishe), preached in Kish, where he erected an altar atop a pagan temple and met a martyr’s end at the hands of fire-worshipping pagans. In the 4th century, a church was built on that sacred spot in Kish, and it stands to this day. Orthodox churches in Nizh and Gakh were also constructed on Albanian foundations. Remarkably, this area boasts an exceptional concentration of preserved Albanian churches, making Lekit a hidden trove for history enthusiasts.

Venturing further into Lekit’s environs reveals another marvel: a unique circular temple, dubbed the “Temple of the Moon” by locals, reminiscent of Armenia’s Zvartnots Cathedral. Concealed amid hazelnut thickets, it’s challenging to locate without insider knowledge or a guide. Archaeological reconstructions suggest its original splendor—a symmetrical dome rising like a lunar beacon—and fragments of its stone walls hint at its former glory. This temple is one of only three surviving circular structures from ancient Albania, and Lekit’s is the best-preserved, likely built atop a pagan lunar shrine.

Together, these sites—the clustered churches and the solitary circular temple—point to Lekit as the heart of a significant Albanian city, complete with a grand sanctuary. The Albanian churches here are a true revelation: forgotten and seldom visited, they retain an untouched aura that transports you to a world of spiritual reverence. The landscape is extraordinarily beautiful, with its soul-stirring ambiance that resonates deeply. 

Just beyond the unassuming village of Lekit, lies a hidden gem that captivates visitors with its ethereal beauty—the Mamyrly Waterfall, affectionately known as the Mossy Waterfall. The trail to Mamyrly begins immediately after Lekit, winding along a crystal-clear mountain stream through a lush, subtropical forest reminiscent of the legendary Colchian groves. Here, the air hums with the vitality of a forgotten paradise: thick vines and lianas drape from towering trees like emerald curtains, creating a canopy that filters dappled sunlight onto the forest floor.

In summer, the path buzzes with life as crowds of nature lovers flock to this oasis. To accommodate the influx, locals have dotted the riverside with charming gazebos and picnic tables — perfect spots to unpack a thermos of tea and soak in the symphony of rustling leaves and bubbling water.

But Mamyrly’s true magic unfolds at its heart. Far from a thundering cascade, this “waterfall” reveals itself as an enormous, moss-draped boulder, a colossal sentinel cloaked in vibrant green velvet. From its rugged surface, slender rivulets of water trickle down in delicate streams, glistening like liquid silver against the emerald backdrop. The effect is hypnotic: each droplet carves intricate patterns on the stone, nourishing the lush moss that clings tenaciously, turning the boulder into a living tapestry of nature’s artistry. 

Despite its modest scale, Mamyrly is undeniably beautiful. The surrounding forest, with its fairy-tale ambiance of ancient trees and winding vines, amplifies the enchantment.

For those seeking off-the-beaten-path adventures, Lekit promises an immersive escape into Azerbaijan’s lesser-explored heritage. Plan your visit during milder seasons to fully savor the trails and ruins, and prepare for a journey that blends physical exertion with intellectual discovery.