We're visiting Kyrgyzstan for 11 days in September.
Initially I planned to rent a 4WD, but now I'm wondering if hiring a driver would actually make more sense. We enjoy road trips and usually drive ourselves when travelling, but I've read mixed comments about mountain roads, local driving habits and insurance.
For those who've done both—which would you choose?
We drove ourselves and I'd do it again tomorrow.
The freedom was incredible. One afternoon we spotted a shepherd moving hundreds of sheep across a valley and simply pulled over for half an hour to watch. Another day we found a tiny lakeside café that wasn't marked on Google Maps. We changed our plans almost every day because we weren't tied to anyone else's schedule.
If you enjoy driving, that's part of the holiday.
As someone who works with visiting trekkers, I'd probably give the opposite advice for a first visit.
Not because the roads are impossible.
Because you're coming to look at Kyrgyzstan.
If you're driving mountain roads for six hours, you're concentrating on potholes, livestock, overtaking trucks and changing weather.
Meanwhile your passenger is enjoying the scenery.
When I drive guests to Song-Kul or Kel-Suu, nearly everyone comments on things they would have missed if they'd been behind the wheel.
I think this depends on where you're going.
Bishkek to Karakol?
No problem.
Remote valleys after heavy rain?
Very different story.
Our guesthouse owner completely changed our plans one morning because a river crossing had become difficult overnight.
That's local knowledge you simply don't have as a visitor.
One small piece of advice if you decide to drive.
Never assume animals will move out of your way.
Cows don't.
Horses often don't either.
Drive as though every animal intends to stand exactly where it is.
You'll be right surprisingly often.