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Bukhara Bathhouses: The Medieval Romance of HAMMOM KUNJAK or the Modern Comfort of HAMMOM SHAHRISTON?

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(@filippika)
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While planning my trip to Uzbekistan, I stumbled upon an intriguing article online titled "Feel Like the Emir's Wife:..." published on some site. The captivating description of the medieval women’s bathhouse, Hammom Kunjak, immediately earned it a spot on our Bukhara itinerary. However, the article didn’t provide contact details, so I had to scour other sources. Eventually, I believed I had found the information I needed.

Hammom Kunjak, built during the Sheibanid dynasty (1507–1598), was originally designed for the emir’s wives and concubines. Visits to this bathhouse are strictly by appointment.

When we arrived in Bukhara, I called the number I had found, confirmed that it was the bathhouse, and made a reservation. They sent me a message with detailed instructions and even a video on how to find them. To my surprise, however, the video revealed that I had accidentally booked a session at the modern Hammom Shahriston instead of the historical Kunjak. Located on the same street as the medieval men’s bathhouse Bozori Kord, Shahriston turned out to be an entirely different experience.

We didn’t let this mix-up derail our plans. That same day, we walked to Hammom Kunjak and made an official reservation.

  • Address: Bukhara, Muhammad Iqbal Street
  • Phone: +998 97 234-32-33
  • Price: 400,000 UZS (~3077 RUB)
  • Duration: 1 hour
  • Women only

The staff at Kunjak even gave us a brief tour of the premises, but the Spartan conditions made us pause. The facilities were, to put it mildly, rustic, and even the restroom was located outside. After some deliberation the next morning, we decided to forgo medieval charm in favor of modern convenience.

By evening, we were at the doors of Hammom Shahriston, just minutes before our scheduled session. This modern bathhouse is part of the Shahriston Hotel but has a separate entrance.

  • Address: Bukhara, Hakikat Street, 53 (entrance on the side of the hotel)
  • Phone: +998 93 477-11-33
  • Price: 400,000 UZS
  • Duration: 1 hour (additional time allowed in the lounge for tea and relaxation)
  • Facilities: Mixed-gender access, choice of male or female masseuse

Behind the hammam doors, we discovered a charming courtyard.

The facilities were well-equipped: guests are provided with towels, sheets, and slippers, although bringing your own flip-flops and shampoo is recommended. Lockers for personal belongings are secure and key-operated.

The Shahriston Experience

After changing into sheets, we passed through the lounge area to the bathhouse. This relaxing space, where tea is served, sometimes still has guests from previous sessions.

6. Bukhara bathhouse
5. Bukhara bathhouse

In the bathing area, we were warmly greeted by two bath attendants. Interestingly, one of them used to work at the medieval baths we had opted against! What followed was a quintessential Bukhara bathhouse experience:

  1. Heating: For about 10 minutes, we lay on heated stones while attendants poured comfortably warm water over us periodically.
  2. Exfoliation: Instead of silk mittens, they used a Korean-style exfoliating glove known as a haltocha. Intrigued, I later bought one at the local market for 10,000 UZS (about $1).
     

     

  3. Rinsing: Thorough rinsing followed the exfoliation.
  4. Body and Hair Wash: A complete cleanse for both body and hair.
  5. Massage: This included stretching and flexing of arms and legs.
  6. Mask Application: A warming mask was applied to shoulders, upper back, and knees. Made from grated ginger root, turmeric, and honey (some sources suggest egg yolk is also included, though this wasn’t mentioned by the attendants), the mask was left on for five minutes. Even after rinsing, a tingling warmth lingered for another 15–20 minutes.
  7. Relaxation: Wrapped in towels, we moved to the lounge for herbal tea.

In line with Avicenna’s medical advice in The Canon of Medicine, cold or hot beverages are avoided after a bath, so the tea served was pleasantly warm. Additional facilities included toilets, showers, and hairdryers in the changing area.

We emerged from Shahriston feeling refreshed and rejuvenated. The experience left us both enchanted, and we’re already looking forward to repeating it on our next visit.

As for our choice between Bukhara’s bathhouses, modern convenience ultimately won. But what would you choose? Share your thoughts in the comments!


   
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