We're flying into Tashkent and out of Urgench two weeks later.
Originally we planned to spend just one night in Tashkent before taking the train to Samarkand, but now I'm wondering whether we're overlooking the city. Some itineraries suggest two or even three days.
Did anyone actually enjoy Tashkent itself, or is it mainly a gateway to the Silk Road cities?
I think a lot of people underestimate Tashkent because they arrive expecting another Samarkand.
It isn't.
If you're looking for medieval architecture, you'll probably be disappointed. But that's not what makes the city interesting.
We ended up staying three nights and never got bored. One morning we wandered around Chorsu Bazaar, spent far too long tasting dried fruit and different kinds of halva, then crossed into the older neighbourhoods where hardly any tourists seemed to go. In the afternoon we visited the Metro simply because everyone kept talking about it, and somehow that became one of the highlights of the day.
The next evening we were sitting outside on Amir Temur Square watching families stroll around while teenagers practised rollerblading. It felt much more like spending time in a real capital city than visiting an open-air museum.
Looking back, I'm glad we didn't rush away immediately.
We only had one full day.
Honestly?
That was enough for us.
We visited Chorsu, rode the Metro, walked around Hazrat Imam and had dinner before catching the morning train to Samarkand.
No regrets.
That's exactly why I'm struggling.
Some people seem to absolutely love Tashkent, while others say one day is plenty.
Maybe because they're looking for different things.
When I first visited Uzbekistan, I couldn't wait to reach Samarkand.
On my second trip I deliberately spent four days in Tashkent.
Why?
Restaurants.
Coffee.
Bookshops.
Parks.
People.
The city grows on you.
It's not especially dramatic, but after travelling through the more historic cities I found it refreshing to spend time somewhere that felt modern and lived-in.
I also think Tashkent has by far the best food scene in Uzbekistan. We ended up eating everything from traditional osh to Korean cuisine and excellent Georgian restaurants.
I agree about the food.
Some of our best meals in Uzbekistan were actually in Tashkent.
People often talk about the monuments in Samarkand or Bukhara, but hardly anyone mentions how enjoyable Tashkent is simply for eating your way across the city.
One thing I noticed...
Almost everyone I know who says "Tashkent isn't worth much time" was visiting Uzbekistan for the first time.
Almost everyone who has returned to the country seems to appreciate Tashkent much more.
I don't know if that's coincidence, but it's definitely been true among our friends.
I'll offer one small warning.
Don't judge the city by the area around your hotel.
We stayed near the railway station on our first night and thought Tashkent felt rather ordinary.
Two days later, after coming back from Bukhara, we stayed near the city centre and it felt like a completely different place.
The city is huge, and each district has its own character.