We're planning our Uzbekistan itinerary and can't decide how much time to allocate to Khiva. Some guidebooks suggest one full day is enough because the old town is quite compact, while others recommend spending at least one night inside the city walls. If you've been there, what would you recommend?
The first thing to understand is that Khiva is very different from Samarkand or Bukhara.
Almost all the famous sights are inside the walls of Itchan Kala, so it's true that you can see most of the major monuments in a day. But that doesn't mean you should leave immediately afterwards.
The biggest surprise for us was how peaceful Khiva became once the day visitors had gone. During the evening we wandered through almost empty streets, climbed the walls just before sunset and watched the minarets change colour as the light faded. It felt like stepping back several centuries.
Did you stay inside Itchan Kala itself?
Yes, and I'd definitely recommend it.
Being able to walk out of the hotel before breakfast and have the old city almost entirely to ourselves was something we'll never forget. We revisited places we'd seen the previous afternoon and they felt completely different without the crowds.
If you're interested in photography, the early morning light alone makes staying overnight worthwhile
We actually visited Khiva as a day trip from Urgench because our flight was the next morning.
It worked perfectly well, and we didn't feel we'd missed any of the main monuments. But after seeing the city in the evening, we both agreed that if we ever returned, we'd stay inside the old town. There was a completely different atmosphere after sunset, with people strolling through the squares and restaurants setting tables outdoors.
One thing I'd add is don't spend the whole day trying to enter every museum.
Some of them are interesting, but after a while they begin to feel quite similar. We enjoyed simply wandering through the narrow streets, climbing the city walls and stopping for tea far more than trying to tick off every building on the map.
I also wouldn't rush away after sunset.
One evening there was traditional music being performed near one of the madrasas, and people simply gathered to listen. It wasn't something we'd planned, but it became one of the nicest memories of our stay.
Sometimes the unexpected moments are what make Khiva special.
Travellers generally agree that Khiva's main attractions can be visited in a single day, but most experienced visitors still recommend spending at least one night, preferably inside Itchan Kala.
The greatest advantage isn't seeing more monuments—it's experiencing the city when the tour groups have left. Early mornings and evenings consistently emerge as travellers' favourite times, when the streets become quieter and the historic atmosphere is at its strongest.
Rather than trying to visit every museum, allow time to simply wander, enjoy the architecture and appreciate the unique character of one of Central Asia's best-preserved walled cities.