We’re starting our trip to Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand on January 3.
The hotels are already booked:
The hotels only provide breakfast, of course. Where can we find good places to eat near these hotels? We’re looking for authentic settings with a national vibe and, naturally, great food.
If you’re looking for authenticity and genuine Uzbek cuisine, I wouldn’t recommend eating in restaurants. Typically, the most delicious food can be found in small cafés near large bazaars. However, keep in mind that these places often lack comfort, presentation, and so on. Make sure to carry wet wipes and something like Mezim with you—the food here is very rich and heavy.
Also, as has been mentioned many times, keep in mind that the famous plov is a lunchtime dish, and it’s unlikely you’ll find it available at other times of the day. Most other dishes, however, don’t have such strict time limitations.
In response to the topic’s question, I’d say it’s more about when than where.
I believe the best time for a trip is September. It's no longer as hot, and all the fruits and melons are in abundance. I think no one would argue that melon is one of the unofficial symbols of Uzbekistan. As for the cuisine, the same plov differs greatly in Bukhara, Samarkand, Tashkent, and Andijan. I recently learned that in Kokand, there’s even a version of plov with pistachios.
Again, there are authentic places like, for example, Chore Bakr in Bukhara. You won’t find it on your own, but the locals know all the spots. Slow-cooked lamb in a tandoor is absolutely mind-blowing. In every city, there are oshpazs who cook plov and serve customers right in their own courtyards. Again, ask locals or search the internet before your trip.
October 2024, Samarkand
Manhattan Restoran (mid-range pricing) - I liked the shurpa and lamb rack, but the waiters are very slow, and the wait was long.
Labigor (mid-range pricing) - the tastiest lamb chops I’ve had in Uzbekistan, plov was average, but the beef and manti were delicious. The waiters are quick, and the dishes are prepared fast.
Samarkand - we never managed to get a table here; all of them were constantly occupied.
Green Bear Bar (budget-friendly) - shashlik, dolma, salads – nothing extraordinary, but tasty. The interior is interesting. Not many people.
Samarkand. The frequently mentioned Plov Center #1 on Ibn Sina Street, 12. The worst plov I’ve had in Uzbekistan, and also the most expensive. I don’t know, maybe I was unlucky, but the rice turned into mush and the meat was unremarkable.
The day before, we had plov at a place nearby: Joni Osh. Completely different story, the plov was excellent. There are waiters who bring a large tray with a standard set of options - a couple of salads, flatbread, and something else. But for the plov, you have to go get it yourself. Everything you order is written down in a book, no receipts. They might rip you off, and they charge a service fee. In Samarkand, we found a very tasty plov at Shashlik N1 - down the street from Registan, turn right, on the left side of the street. But there is service, and they include a 10% charge.
Bukhara. Chinar - probably the best plov we had, but for some reason, they only start serving it at 12:30. The plov has a lot of chickpeas. Magistral (Okmasjid Street, 9) - probably the best plov was here. The café is far from the attractions, and there were almost no tourists there.