I went to the OVIR office in Dushanbe on Tursunzade today to get a GBAO permit. They charged 40 somoni and told me to return in an hour. OVIR also works on Saturdays, from 8 AM until midday. So no problems at all with getting permits, no delays, they issue permits same day
We got our permit at Tursunzade in Dushanbe. There were no queues. The process took 5 minutes: we submitted our documents, received application forms (which they later filled out themselves), and headed to the nearest AmonatBank branch on Bukhoro Street, 30, to pay the fee.
That’s where chaos hit—crowds, one operational window, and people cutting in line. Just say you're paying for a Pamir permit at the window and pay 20 somoni per person. Take the receipt back to OVIR and submit it at another window along with the forms. Return in a couple of hours to pick up your permit.
The only hassle for us was the bank. It felt like the old days before electronic queues. There might be less crowded branches nearby.
Double-check your permit details before leaving—our surname was misspelled. They didn’t bother correcting it, assuring us that as long as the passport number matches, it's fine. The staff was friendly.
Getting the permit in Dushanbe’s OVIR office isn’t a problem. We arrived straight from Samarkand around 3 PM, completed everything on time, and left for Pamir the next morning.
In late September last year, I got a GBAO permit in Dushanbe’s OVIR. I arrived at 11:00 AM, found no queue, and received a payment slip. After paying at AmonatBank (two traffic lights toward the center), I returned with the receipt. The permit was ready after 3 PM.
If you’re heading to Pamir from Osh instead of Dushanbe, you can get the permit in the Tajik embassy in Bishkek for $20. They stamp your passport instead of issuing a paper permit. Unlike the regular permit, this stamp doesn’t prohibit visiting Sarez Lake.
During my visit to OVIR in Dushanbe, I learned you can temporarily register at a hostel for up to 30 days. It costs 50 somoni for the state fee and 50 somoni for processing. No need for a local resident’s passport for registration.
For a local SIM card, you need only your foreign passport and hostel address. Proof of hostel stay wasn’t required; they took my word for it. A good smile and friendly demeanor helped.
Avoid Beeline SIM cards for GBAO trips—the internet is terrible. It works in Khorog, but in the villages, it’s non-existent. Try another provider.
Additional info: Don’t bother going to OVIR in Penjikent. They don’t have forms and won’t get any. Only the capital and regional centers issue permits.
If you’re in Dushanbe on a public holiday, OVIR may still be operational. They came outside, took our passports, and returned 10 minutes later with permits. We paid in cash, and since the fee matched the bank rate, there were no complaints.
Hello!
Can anyone provide contacts for arranging a GBAO permit remotely from Osh?
We used Osh-Travel for this. You can find their contacts on their website.
On October 29, 2022, we got a GBAO permit at Mirzo Tursunzade 5 in Dushanbe. It cost 110 somoni, paid directly to the staff. The process took 10 minutes without receipts.
Hello, colleagues! Does anyone know if it’s currently possible to get a GBAO permit in Kulob? If so, where should I go to try? Just ask locals for the OVIR office?
Not sure about Kulob, but I got my permit in Khujand in two hours for 20 somoni per person (though they initially asked for 150 and a next-day pickup). It’s logical for OVIR in Kulob to offer the service too, though this is Tajikistan, so who knows.
info for September 2023, Dushanbe:
Documents for registration and GBAO permits:
Fees:
Working hours (Tursunzade 5):
Mon-Fri: 8–17 (lunch 12–13), Sat: 9–12.
At the time, only local bank cards were accepted for payment. I handed cash to a local who paid with their card.
Beware of additional fees requested directly by staff. Insist on official payment receipts.
Thanks, Marussia! So, it’s possible to get the GBAO permit without registration?
Yes, you can get it without registration. You can even arrange it without being in Tajikistan.