Khikhani Fortress stands as one of the significant bastions of mountainous Adjara, strategically built in the medieval era on a site of great importance. Nestled on a high ridge near the village of Upper Tkhilvana, this fortress is seldom included in tourist itineraries due to its challenging accessibility.
Constructed between the 12th and 13th centuries (the exact date remains unknown), Khikhani Fortress crowns the summit of Mount Khikhani. The slopes of this mountain are part of the breathtaking Skhalta Gorge. Its advantageous strategic position has always been utilized by military forces. Perched at an elevation of 2,635 meters above sea level, the fortress is situated near the border with Turkey, a country historically known for its tumultuous relationships with its neighbors. Access to Khikhani Fortress can only be made via a trail from the southeast.
Today, only the ruins of the fortress remain, but the dimensions and history of this significant historical site can be gleaned from the accounts of ethnographers and scholars. The Georgian ethnographer and writer Tedo Sahokia described it as follows: “The Khikhani Fortress (another name for the citadel) is located at the peak, surrounded on three sides by impassable cliffs, while a wall built along the mountain ridge is connected by four towers. In 1894, General Georgy Kazbegi visited the fortress.”
The fortress occupies an area of one hectare. The perimeter walls feature notches that allowed defenders to monitor enemies and, if necessary, serve as firing points. Archaeological excavations have revealed several layers of history; the oldest layer dates back to the 12th-13th centuries, while a later layer corresponds to the period when the territory was under Ottoman control from the 17th to the 19th centuries.
Situated atop a mountain with steep slopes, the fortress, despite its seemingly impregnable nature, has been reduced to ruins, with only a few structures remaining. The tower at the front of the fortress has been nearly leveled. The western walls have collapsed into a ravine, but the ruins of the northern, northeastern, and southern walls and towers have survived and undergone restoration. Visitors can now observe the remains of four towers.
During the first expedition, archaeologists discovered five large traditional Georgian clay wine vessels known as “qvevri” within the fortress. It’s easy to surmise that these vessels were used by the fortress defenders to store wine. Subsequent excavations uncovered an additional 43 vessels, which likely held water instead of wine.
After a careful examination of the fortress towers, researchers concluded that they were “multi-storied.” The walls of the towers clearly show traces of floors. Only two walls remain of the eastern tower. Just below the fortress walls, there are ruins of domestic buildings. One wall reveals the remnants of a fireplace, alongside traces of shelves, suggesting that this structure was likely inhabited by the fortress defenders. Several ruins of similar buildings have also been discovered.
The fortress is also home to the ruins of the Church of Saint George, the patron saint of Georgia.
Historical documents indicate that the construction of the fortress was initiated by the renowned 13th-century scholar and prose writer Tbel Abuseridze, who has been canonized by the Georgian Orthodox Church. The completion of Khikhani Fortress was significantly influenced by Abuseridze Magula, the wife of a prince. Other accounts and legends attribute the construction of Khikhani Fortress to Queen Tamar. It is known that the fortress served as the residence of the Abuseridze princes of Adjara.
The proximity to the Ottoman Empire led to the prolonged occupation of Adjara and Akhaltsikhe by this neighbor, with local territories managed by their appointees. One such leader of the occupied territories was the national hero Selim Khimshiashvili, who initially waged a covert struggle and later an open fight against the conquerors. He notably assisted King Solomon II of Imereti in fleeing to Turkey after years of battling other invaders, including the Russian Empire.
For his defiance and open insubordination, Selim Khimshiashvili, along with his family and supporters, was sentenced to death. In 1815, it was at Khikhani Fortress that he was beheaded by the Turks. Before his execution, he declared to his executioners, “You may kill me and hundreds of soldiers, but you will never eradicate the spirit of Georgia.”
Before visiting Khikhani Fortress, it is essential to bring identification documents. The fortress is located in a border zone, so it is necessary to register at the border service building along the way. This is a formality that must be observed.
Upon departing from Shuakhevi, there is a signpost directing to the village of Bakibako; turn right onto the Zomleti-Khikhadziri road. This route winds through the picturesque gorge of the Skhalta River, where tourists will undoubtedly feel compelled to capture the breathtaking landscapes with their cameras.
Along the way, visitors can explore the Skhalta Monastery. The monastery grounds feature a single-nave basilica (a church without a dome) dedicated to the Virgin Mary, dating back to the 13th century, as well as the ruins of a smaller church from the 10th-11th centuries. This site is one of the few Christian monuments that have survived in Adjara, and within the church, one can admire the only monumental wall painting from the medieval era.
Travelers will be amazed by the houses built on the slopes of the mountains, seemingly in inaccessible locations. After passing the village of Khikhadziri, the journey must continue, as the fortress is still several villages away. The last village is called Bako, and one should proceed as far as the road allows; beyond that point, a steep hike awaits. Before reaching the trailhead, visitors will encounter a sign that narrates the fortress’s history and architecture.
Khikhani Fortress is considered one of the most beautiful fortifications in Georgia, if not the most stunning. While the fortress itself may not stand out for its unique architectural features, its remarkable location and the fantastic views it offers certainly set it apart from others.