Nestled in the suburbs of Batumi lies the ancient Gonio Fortress, the oldest stone structure in all of Georgia. Once a border bastion, it stands as a testament to the region’s rich history. The fortress is often referred to by its dual name—Gonio Apsaros Fortress. According to legend, it was here that Apsirtus, the prince slain by Jason and the Argonauts during their escape from Colchis, was buried. Myth has it that his body was dismembered and cast into the sea, only to be washed ashore. While there is no material evidence to support this tale, the name of the tragically murdered heir has been immortalized in this remarkable site.
The earliest mention of settlement in Adjara dates back to the Bronze Age, when Greeks sailing across the Black Sea spoke of the glorious lands of Colchis and the noble tribes that inhabited them. Archaeological evidence suggests that the first structures may have been erected on the grounds of the future fortress as far back as 4,000 to 5,000 years ago, supported by numerous earthen mounds and artifacts from antiquity, including Greek coins.
The next significant chapter in the fortress’s history began with the arrival of the Romans in the 1st century AD. Driven by more than just trade interests, the Romans sought a reliable outpost to safeguard their borders. Consequently, a wall with defensive towers rose around the Acharistskali Gorge. By modern standards, this fortification was modest—standing at no more than 7 meters high, 2 meters thick, and spanning 900 meters in perimeter—but in antiquity, it was a grand construction.
Later Byzantine chronicles spoke not merely of a simple border bastion, Apsaros, but of a fully-fledged city within its walls. This settlement was well-supplied with food, hosted gladiatorial games, and satellite imagery confirms that significant residential quarters with gardens coexisted alongside the barracks of legionnaires and armories. Unfortunately, none of the patrician villas have survived to this day, and the ruins of their foundations make it difficult to ascertain much about them.
The Middle Ages brought Turkish domination to Georgia, lasting nearly 400 years, until the Russian army finally triumphed in 1878. As per the Treaty of San Stefano, Adjara, which gained significant autonomy within the Georgian regions, was ceded to Russia. However, the fortress’s fate was less fortunate—it faded into obscurity for decades, overshadowed by the lack of agriculturally significant lands nearby.
Excavations at Gonio officially commenced in 1964, when local authorities recognized the need to preserve the slowly deteriorating monument. Nearly 30 years were dedicated to restoring the site, ensuring that crumbling walls would not pose a danger to visitors. In 1994, the architectural and archaeological reserve was inaugurated, and today, the fortress is rightfully regarded as one of the most popular attractions not only in Georgia but throughout the entire South Caucasus.
Despite some reviewers portraying Gonio as mere ruins, this is far from the truth. A unique historical complex dedicated to the ancient and medieval periods has been established here. Visitors can explore all the sites with a single ticket purchased at the entrance, with informative signs available in Russian throughout the area.
Most tours of the fortress begin at the Archaeological Museum, housed in reconstructed Turkish barracks that now serve as a modern exhibition hall. The majority of the findings date back to the 1st to 3rd centuries, with displays featuring ancient amphorae, coins, and fragments of weaponry. Visitors can also see numerous models created to approximate the appearance of the bastion through various eras—from the Romans to the Turks.
An equally fascinating exhibition operates outside the museum. In a covered pavilion, medieval war machines—such as catapults and ballistae—have been reconstructed based on ancient blueprints. Opposite them stands a Roman chariot, casually accompanied by a replica of a legionnaire’s shield. It is known that this type of wooden board served as a precursor to modern plywood, and guides regularly share stories about other exhibits.
Georgia is recognized as one of the possible burial sites of the legendary apostle who took the place of the traitor Judas. According to two other theories, Matthew’s body rests in modern-day Kyrgyzstan by Lake Issyk-Kul, while Catholics believe his remains are settled in the Italian city of Sorrento. Verification of these hypotheses is impossible, as the official church has prohibited the opening of the sarcophagus to avoid provoking a religious conflict.
However, anyone wishing to visit this sacred site is welcome. Recently, a marble gazebo has adorned the tomb, and access is unrestricted. Devotees regularly leave flowers and candles with prayers nearby. There are several benches and a designated area for solemn services. Interestingly, the tomb has never been looted, even during the Ottoman period, although a soldiers’ mosque stood nearby until the 19th century.
Both the Roman baths and aqueduct remain in ruins today, yet even the remnants of their foundations speak volumes about the grand engineering vision of the ancient Romans. The so-called “triple wells,” deep pits where water was collected, were part of a sophisticated system of ceramic pipes that supplied water to the baths. Visitors can still see partially reconstructed sections of the aqueduct near one of the fortress walls, showcasing the ingenuity of Roman engineering.
Roman warhorses required regular training, and a dedicated square within the bastion served this purpose. Gladiators were brought here during their leisure time, and it is possible that a theater operated on-site as well. Archaeological discoveries consistently support these claims, with horse harnesses, helmets, and various household items dating back to the 1st century AD being unearthed from the soil. These artifacts paint a vivid picture of daily life and entertainment in ancient times.
Originally, the fortress was designed with 22 guard towers, not the 18 that remain today. Their destruction was not solely due to regular sieges and invasions; natural erosion and rockfalls also played significant roles in their decline. Climbing the surviving fragments of walls is strictly prohibited for safety reasons, as steep cliffs often lie beneath, littered with sharp stones.
In 1974, an ancient treasure was accidentally discovered within Gonio. Several chests filled with gold coins and jewels remained perfectly preserved beneath layers of earth, creating a sensation among Soviet archaeologists. While the exact origin of the treasure remains unknown, fragments of it can be seen in the local exhibition hall and the central archaeology museum in Batumi.
For those interested in nature, a visit to the nearby St. Andrew’s waterfall, located just 7 kilometers to the south, is highly recommended. Although it is not easily visible from the road leading to the Turkish border, a stunning cascade awaits those who venture closer. Nearby, a statue of the apostle, crafted in traditional Georgian style, stands as a testament to the region’s cultural heritage. This interactive monument includes a massive throne that any guest can climb upon, allowing for memorable photos and experiences.
Transportation to this remarkable attraction is straightforward. Throughout the year, branded buses labeled “Gonio” depart from Batumi’s central train station, providing comfortable transport for organized tours. Tickets for available seats can be purchased by anyone, though additional fees may apply for English-speaking guides, with payment often accepted in dollars.
A much cheaper alternative is to take minibus number 16, which runs from Mayakovski Street to the Turkish border. The journey is relatively short—just 14 kilometers—taking no more than half an hour even in heavy traffic. Passengers should disembark at the “Apsaros Highway” stop, and it’s advisable to inform the driver in advance, as they may sometimes pass by without stopping. The fortress itself is about a 200-meter walk from the minibus stop, marked by clear signs.