Kveshi Fortress, a citadel steeped in centuries of history, is located in the Bolnisi Municipality of Georgia. Perched on a rocky outcrop beside the Mashavera River, its strategic location on an inaccessible crag made it an ideal vantage point for observing and defending the entire Mashavera Gorge and surrounding territories. Just 11 kilometers from Bolnisi on the way to Dmanisi, the fortress is hard to miss from the road, renowned for its entrance through a small tunnel. Historically, it is known primarily as the residence of the first Muslim king of Georgia, who ruled from 1569 to 1578.
A visit to Kveshi Fortress offers an excellent opportunity for those seeking to explore an unusual landmark. Entry to the fortress is free, and thanks to a well-paved road leading to the site, it is now easily accessible by car.
It is believed that the first fortress at this location was constructed as early as the 6th century, serving as the administrative center of the entire Mashavera Valley, which was thus named Kveshi Valley. However, during the Muslim era, the city of Dmanisi, the capital of the Dmanisi Emirate, began to expand, and by the 11th century, it had completely overtaken Kveshi’s status as the primary stronghold in the region, transforming the valley into Dmanisi Valley. It is likely that the fortress came under the control of the Georgian Kingdom during the reign of King David the Builder.
The next significant events unfolded during the reign of Queen Tamar. Due to certain merits, the fortress was granted to Prince Vardan Dadiani, who owned territories in the west and was the progenitor of the Dadiani dynasty. He held high court positions but joined the uprising led by Giorgi the Russian (the exiled husband of Tamar) in 1191, after which he was stripped of the fortress following the rebellion’s suppression. Interestingly, he managed to remain at court. Kveshi Fortress was later handed over to the Toreli princes by Tamar.
Subsequent events are related to the disintegration of the Georgian Kingdom in 1466. Konstantin, the grandson of King Alexander I, initiated a war to reclaim the Kingdom of Kartli from Bagrat of Imereti, with the support of Prince Zakaria Javakhishvili. An unusual document exists in which Kings Bagrat and Konstantin officially grant Kveshi Fortress to the Javakhishvili princes.
The Javakhishvili family controlled the fortress for about a century, and the name Kvesheli even emerged in their lineage. However, they eventually disappeared. In 1569, the Persians captured King Simon I and installed his brother David as king. David, who had lived in Iran since 1562, was the first ideologically Muslim member of the Bagrationi dynasty. He found himself an outsider in Georgia and chose Kveshi Fortress as his residence, indulging in various Asian revelries. His lifestyle was considered quite improper by the standards of the time, and this continued until 1578 when the Turks arrived, forcing David to flee to Crimea.
It is highly likely that the existing Kveshi Fortress was constructed during David’s reign. From these walls, he gazed upon the Georgia he had grown weary of, reminiscing about Tabriz while regaling his concubines with tales of his rich inner world. For a time, the fortress belonged to the Orbelians, but in the 18th century, these lands were severely ravaged, likely by Dagestani invaders. The fortress fell into disrepair, and by the time the Russian army arrived, Kveshi had lost any strategic significance, with a supply base established at Kolagiri.
Kveshi Fortress is modest in size, measuring only about 80 meters between its farthest points. Steep cliffs rise to the south and west, while a gentle earthen slope leads up from the north. This side features the most robust walls, but the slope meets the rock, necessitating the construction of a tunnel carved into the stone. This tunnel is believed to be the oldest part of the fortress, possibly dating back to the 7th century.
Through the tunnel, visitors enter the lower tier of the fortress, from which a stone staircase leads to the upper level. This upper tier was likely the primary living area in earlier times. The fortress wall also served as the wall of the residential quarters, with numerous niches for fireplaces visible today. These were used by King David XI during the decade he resided there, forgotten by the outside world. The space was limited, yet it had to accommodate the king, his entire staff, and some armed guards.
David’s ten years of residence is the only connection the fortress has with Georgian history. His children, Bagrat and Rostom, would also become Muslim kings of Kartli, as would his grandson, Simon. The era of Muslim kings eventually faded, but the influence of Iranian culture that accompanied them took root in Georgian society.
Kveshi Fortress is constructed from rubble, with limestone used as the binding mortar. Even today, remnants of several buildings and a watchtower can still be seen within the fortress grounds. Small water reservoirs are carved into the rock outside the fortress, and a tiny chapel built from well-crafted stone blocks stands in the courtyard.
The Kveshi Fortress has survived relatively well compared to many other Georgian fortifications. It is situated atop a moderately high hill, surrounded on all sides by a defensive wall, which includes a single embedded tower. Access to the interior is limited to one side—through a passageway carved into the rock.
A small church, built on the rock within the fortress, dates back to the 18th century, although it is known to have been constructed on the site of a much older, now-lost temple. Numerous traces of antiquity can be found throughout the fortress, with the oldest artifacts being stone stelae from the 7th to 8th centuries, some adorned with intricate carvings.
